Just arrived: 80mm 1.9, 45mm 2.8 and Mirex adapter.
I'm still looking for a macro lens. How is the 80mm macro compared to the 120mm? The 110mm 2.8 with tubes also looks promising from the pictures above.
Nice, Dmitri! Presuming that the tilted shot was taken shortly after the untilted shot, why is the WB so different? Using auto WB? By the way, I wouldn't do global sharpening on the tilted shot because it will make the foreground bokeh even more harsh than it already is.
Aham: I applied a warmer filter to the non-tilted capture thus enhancing the colours to the level I like.. I wanted to keep tilted shot somewhat more muted.
The sharpening is in my script, which I probably need to revise. Somehow I feel that blurring it out after is a bit of a cheating..
Edit: thank you for pointing the sharpening out! now I definitely not questioning my eyes..
Krosavcheg wrote:
Somehow I feel that blurring it out after is a bit of a cheating..
I can understand that, but you don't have to blur the image -- just apply sharpening on a separate layer and use a layer mask to not sharpen the foreground. Alternatively you can use the history brush to paint the non-sharpened image back in the foreground.
Sharpening can sometimes make skies or smooth parts of an image more grainy (and accentuate noise), so in those cases I use selective sharpening too.
AhamB wrote:
I can understand that, but you don't have to blur the image -- just apply sharpening on a separate layer and use a layer mask to not sharpen the foreground. Alternatively you can use the history brush to paint the non-sharpened image back in the foreground.
Sharpening can sometimes make skies or smooth parts of an image more grainy (and accentuate noise), so in those cases I use selective sharpening too.
That is another problem (in a way). I got a wacom board and not so steady hands, so selective sharpening really stands out. And if I use pen tool to mask areas, it feels a little too "clinical" and unnatural.
Perhaps I am too fussy about it. Any advise?
Krosavcheg wrote:
That is another problem (in a way). I got a wacom board and not so steady hands, so selective sharpening really stands out. And if I use pen tool to mask areas, it feels a little too "clinical" and unnatural.
Perhaps I am too fussy about it. Any advise?
Use pressure sensitivity for the pen, use a large soft edge brush and use low transparency and build up the selection in several strokes.
Krosavcheg wrote:
That is another problem (in a way). I got a wacom board and not so steady hands, so selective sharpening really stands out. And if I use pen tool to mask areas, it feels a little too "clinical" and unnatural.
Perhaps I am too fussy about it. Any advise?
With selective I didn't mean only sharpening small bits, per say. I meant masking parts that suffer from sharpening. With my sharpening method I often do several smart sharpens with radius 0.1 -- some parts of the image will get oversharpened (stair steps or halos) and then I mask the oversharpened bits by painting on the layer mask with a soft brush with the appropriate size.