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Archive 2011 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)

  
 
dbehrens
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p.3 #1 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


Here are a couple with the 35/3.5.
Dave

http://www.pbase.com/dbehrens/image/137530166/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/dbehrens/image/137529882/original.jpg



Aug 25, 2011 at 08:45 PM
JohnJ
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p.3 #2 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


Krosavcheg wrote:
John: great shots!


Thanks very much.

JJ



Aug 25, 2011 at 11:33 PM
buggz2k
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p.3 #3 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


Anyone try the 145mm f4 soft focus model?
Any samples?
I'm hovering on the click to buy button...



Sep 09, 2011 at 01:13 PM
H.Lux
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p.3 #4 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


120/4 A on 5DII this morning.

http://www.hawlitschka.de/macro/Libelle_fm.jpg


Cheers,

Stefan



Sep 10, 2011 at 05:50 AM
Caldiar
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p.3 #5 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


Just arrived: 80mm 1.9, 45mm 2.8 and Mirex adapter.
I'm still looking for a macro lens. How is the 80mm macro compared to the 120mm? The 110mm 2.8 with tubes also looks promising from the pictures above.

http://www.phynet.de/johannesalm/upload/IMG_3419.JPG



Sep 10, 2011 at 08:23 AM
RustyBug
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p.3 #6 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


Congrats on the mirex, etc.

I've got the 80/4 C and the 110/2.8 N w/tubes ... I'll see if I can put up some comps in a few days.



Sep 10, 2011 at 08:33 AM
Caldiar
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p.3 #7 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


Thanks, that would be great.


Sep 10, 2011 at 10:21 AM
Mike Ganz
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p.3 #8 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


Mamiya 120/4 A with a 5D2 (unsure if I ever put these up):

http://www.northlakephotography.com/Photography/Mamiya-120-Macro/120macro1/845672260_fk33r-XL.jpg

http://www.northlakephotography.com/Photography/Mamiya-120-Macro/MG1636web/867768910_zMgc7-XL.jpg



Sep 11, 2011 at 06:53 AM
Caldiar
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p.3 #9 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


Nice, one. I need to try the 120mm macro.
Here are some of my first attempts using the Mirex adapter. Mostly with the 80mm 1.9 and some with the 45mm.


http://www.phynet.de/johannesalm/upload/photos/IMG_3562.JPG


http://www.phynet.de/johannesalm/upload/photos/IMG_3552-Bearbeitet.JPG


http://www.phynet.de/johannesalm/upload/photos/IMG_3532.JPG


http://www.phynet.de/johannesalm/upload/photos/IMG_3469-Bearbeitet.JPG


http://www.phynet.de/johannesalm/upload/photos/IMG_3571-Bearbeitet-2.JPG




Sep 11, 2011 at 09:55 AM
AhamB
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p.3 #10 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


@Caldiar: Wow, great use of the 80/1.9!


Sep 11, 2011 at 12:54 PM
Mike Ganz
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p.3 #11 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


80/1.9 on 5D2 with a tube (forgot which):

http://www.northlakephotography.com/Flowers/Dallas-Arboretum/DA1414web/836981439_YCJGS-X2.jpg

http://www.northlakephotography.com/Flowers/Dallas-Arboretum/DA1425web/836981609_ExhVD-X2.jpg



Sep 11, 2011 at 06:41 PM
Krosavcheg
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p.3 #12 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


80/1.9 on Mirex T/S.

@f5.6:
http://www.3byk.org/gallery2/d/6601-1/IMG_3254.jpg

WO full shift:
http://www.3byk.org/gallery2/d/6592-1/IMG_3256.jpg



Sep 19, 2011 at 03:17 AM
AhamB
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p.3 #13 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


Nice, Dmitri! Presuming that the tilted shot was taken shortly after the untilted shot, why is the WB so different? Using auto WB? By the way, I wouldn't do global sharpening on the tilted shot because it will make the foreground bokeh even more harsh than it already is.


Sep 19, 2011 at 03:23 AM
Krosavcheg
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p.3 #14 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


Aham: I applied a warmer filter to the non-tilted capture thus enhancing the colours to the level I like.. I wanted to keep tilted shot somewhat more muted.
The sharpening is in my script, which I probably need to revise. Somehow I feel that blurring it out after is a bit of a cheating..

Edit: thank you for pointing the sharpening out! now I definitely not questioning my eyes..



Sep 19, 2011 at 03:28 AM
Krosavcheg
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p.3 #15 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


One more from 80/1.9
@2.8 I believe. No tilt/shift.
http://www.3byk.org/gallery2/d/6583-1/IMG_3219.jpg



Sep 19, 2011 at 03:31 AM
AhamB
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p.3 #16 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


Krosavcheg wrote:
Somehow I feel that blurring it out after is a bit of a cheating..


I can understand that, but you don't have to blur the image -- just apply sharpening on a separate layer and use a layer mask to not sharpen the foreground. Alternatively you can use the history brush to paint the non-sharpened image back in the foreground.

Sharpening can sometimes make skies or smooth parts of an image more grainy (and accentuate noise), so in those cases I use selective sharpening too.

Nice shot again, btw.



Sep 19, 2011 at 03:42 AM
Krosavcheg
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p.3 #17 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


AhamB wrote:
I can understand that, but you don't have to blur the image -- just apply sharpening on a separate layer and use a layer mask to not sharpen the foreground. Alternatively you can use the history brush to paint the non-sharpened image back in the foreground.

Sharpening can sometimes make skies or smooth parts of an image more grainy (and accentuate noise), so in those cases I use selective sharpening too.


That is another problem (in a way). I got a wacom board and not so steady hands, so selective sharpening really stands out. And if I use pen tool to mask areas, it feels a little too "clinical" and unnatural.
Perhaps I am too fussy about it. Any advise?



Sep 19, 2011 at 03:49 AM
JohnJ
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p.3 #18 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


Krosavcheg wrote:
That is another problem (in a way). I got a wacom board and not so steady hands, so selective sharpening really stands out. And if I use pen tool to mask areas, it feels a little too "clinical" and unnatural.
Perhaps I am too fussy about it. Any advise?


Use pressure sensitivity for the pen, use a large soft edge brush and use low transparency and build up the selection in several strokes.

JJ



Sep 19, 2011 at 04:06 AM
Krosavcheg
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p.3 #19 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


Nice! Will try..


Sep 19, 2011 at 04:09 AM
AhamB
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p.3 #20 · Mamiya (MF) on Digital (2011)


Krosavcheg wrote:
That is another problem (in a way). I got a wacom board and not so steady hands, so selective sharpening really stands out. And if I use pen tool to mask areas, it feels a little too "clinical" and unnatural.
Perhaps I am too fussy about it. Any advise?


With selective I didn't mean only sharpening small bits, per say. I meant masking parts that suffer from sharpening. With my sharpening method I often do several smart sharpens with radius 0.1 -- some parts of the image will get oversharpened (stair steps or halos) and then I mask the oversharpened bits by painting on the layer mask with a soft brush with the appropriate size.



Sep 19, 2011 at 05:43 AM
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