I've got a Rokkor 58 1.2, and the eg-s super precision focusing screen from Canon, and I still can't get the focus right on. The lens itself is very sharp and the pictures are of high quality, but getting the focus at 1.2 is very very difficult. Using live view with this lens is also non-trivial in most situations.
I've done some other tests with a ZE 50 1.4, and it's much easier to focus, mainly I guess because the difference in dof between 50 1.4 and 58 1.2. Also, if I use the focus assist, focus becomes even easier. But there is no focus assist with the Rokkor.
Magnifying eye pieces help a little, I have DK-17M installed on 5D.
Paul (Cogitech) shared an interesting approach to nailing a shot with fast lenses when time isn't on your side. Basically it involves slightly front focus, locking it there and firing a burst of shots as you lean forward.
I tried and it works, but needs knowing your lens well and control over your body motion (if you lean too fast you will miss some intermediate shots).
Alternatively, you could try to stay still and fire a burst as you slowly turn the focus ring. Again this requires you know the lens like the back of your hand (ring travel, direction) and some practice.
There are 2 ways to focus manual lenses. The optical viewfinder and an AF confirm chip.
I suggest making sure your viewfinder is accurate with the eg-s screen (eg-s chosen in custom fuctions), and if not, buy the shim/washers from Canon to adjust the focus screen to give accurate focus. The "Lens Align" product is a good device for doing this, however, one can make their own version.
Then, after that, the new programmable AF confirm chips can adjust the AF point to correct any front or back focus, and if properly done, can match the optical viewfinder fairly closely.
Be aware that most fast lenses will have some focus shift, so focusing at f/1.2, and then stopping down will push the focus point out.
The above 2 steps are all in an effort to increase the accuracy of focus and know your equipment. Then, maybe focus bracketing is in order.
The EG-S has made a world of difference for me, but I still miss a few. It takes A LOT of practice to start nailing down focus manually with ultra fast lenses, well it did for me and I could still use some more!
I have shot with 58mm/1.2 lenses practically exclusively since May last year, taking probably 30 000 street action shots over the past year alone. I consider myself somewhat decent at getting things in focus, but I miss about 1/3 of the shots (to a degree where the shot is a delete) and 1/3 is within range if the shot has much merit otherwise and about 1/3 is "on". It certainly is tough. I just got my first AF confirm adapter and will calibrate it tomorrow with the micro adjust. But I trust my eyes much more than a beep.
I don't have the Rokkor (still looking around, after missing my first good opportunity), but I don't think the procedure differs from other fast lenses. With my Nikkor 50/1.2 I use focus bracket when shooting wide open (and f/1.4) under 3 meters. I've noticed I get the best results if I back focus first by eye and turn in until the focus confirmation blinks, I'll back up a little and take the first shot, turn in until the confirmation, take another shot, turn more, another shot, until I loose the confirmation.
You'll be certain to have at least 1 sharp result in 3-4 shots.
Actually once you get the feel you can narrow down the bracket, to c.2 shots
With experience I think you can skip the bracket altogether.
Ruy
PS. I've done away with the split (Canon modified cross-type) prism, and returned to a standard screen. Didn't like the effects on metering.
Jul 06, 2009 at 06:26 AM
Steve Spencer Offline • • • • • • • Upload & Sell: On
I have the Ef-s focus screen for my 50D and it helps a lot, but with the very narrow depth of field at f/1.2 it takes tons of practice. Jim's advice about shimming the focus screen is certainly worth considering. I have focus confirm adapters, but don't really pay attention to the focus confirm signal (I get them because I like the EXIF data). You can put a focus confirm adapter on the Rokkor--mine has one--but as others have said I don't think it is more reliable than my eye and I have less than perfect vision. One tip that may help, is I often use f/2 over f/1.2 and my particular Rokkor is fabulous at f/2--it is noticably sharper and has better bokeh in most situations. At f/2 my keeper rate goes up to close to Andre's. So if the situation allows I find shooting at f/2 a big help.
YMMV, but I am at the point were I simply do not use AF on my 5D at all, and LV is not a feature of the 5D, of course. I shot a wedding yesterday and used only the 5D, Zenitar 16/2.8, Zuiko 28/3.5, Vivitar 28/2, Rokkor 58/1.2 and FD 85/1.2 SSC Asph. The Rokkor and FD 85 were used almost entirely at f1.2 and f2. I used no flash and no tripod for the whole wedding. The keeper rate (in focus) is even higher than that of my wife's keeper rate with the 40D and AF lenses. There are sequences of 30 shots in a row that are simply perfect, then maybe one stinker and another 25 perfect, etc. Please don't think I am boasting. I just want people to know that it is certainly possible to master MF with these cameras and lenses using the VF only.
Anden wrote:
Almost all the time for the rokkor. I find the rokkor to be harder to focus than other manual lenses.
I certainly think the FD 85 is easier to focus manually than the Rokkor, but I don't find the Rokkor particularly difficult overall. The Vivitar 28/2 is far more difficult, for instance.
The Rokkor is easier to focus at f2, I find, because contrast is higher and the extra DoF helps of course.
I should mention that I did let my wife use the Rokkor on the 40D for a while, and she did quite well manually focusing it with the Ef-S + DK-17M combo.
I use LV most of the time when shooting at 1.2 with the Rokkor 58 or with ZA 135 1.8 at 1.8.
Just three same button presses to zoom in adjust focus and then zoom out.
Much better chance of getting the correct eye in focus of a portrait.
Can i throw in another thought here that relates to the subject of focusing.i agree with Paul that the VF and ef-s focus screen is the way to go.
My question is where do most of you keep your custom function #4 on your camera bodies.I learned that if you are using a focus confirm adapter that if you leave cf #4 on 0 then you can not lock focus and recompose because then the camera will meter the scene once again.But putting the CF on 1 allows you to lock exposure but you lose the Focus confirmation.Does any of this make sense to any one?
-Jim
We mustn't be entirely in agreement, because my focusing method does not employ the AF system of the camera at all, including focus confirm chips. I do not focus and recompose. I compose, focus ("compocus", actually), then expose. So, I cannot comment on that C.Fn. In fact, I couldn't even tell you without looking what I have set for that C. Fn. Sorry.
Yeah, the Aspherical 85/1.2. It is a breeze to focus right from 1.2. It is quite a bit sharper (less of the various aberrations) than the Rokkor at 1.2 as well, so it makes sense what you say.
Paul,
I appreciate you sharing with us.This is really my first MF lens with Focus confirm.I am quickly learning that Focus confirm may be over rated.MF lens allow you to compose and then shoot.AF Canon lenses would get you in the habit of Lock focusing and then composing something that i do not exactly like.MF lenses i am learning allow you to compose first then focus as you said, it was the focus confirmation adapter that was confusing me at first but i think i am figuring it out,but to get it right you have to use CF #4.
-Jim
