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Archive 2008 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

helimat
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p.2 #1 · p.2 #1 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

Off topic, but I have to say that I checked out your website Marc, you have some amazing images there.

Sep 25, 2008 at 12:00 PM

gmojay
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p.2 #2 · p.2 #2 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

Taylor Barrett wrote:
You do not have to permanently attach the adapter, but you'll have a hard time finding one!

Sure, to be able to use a polariser & grads on the 14-24 would be great - for some essential. But there's no point in this 16-35er buying the lens unless the 16:9 adapter actually becomes available.

If I ever I do manage to acquire one, I'd be tempted to leave my Lee filter kit at home. I can otherwise see myself fiddling with resin/glass and banging/maybe scratching that massive lens bulb. But that's just me - I can see it happening.

I was planning instead to rely on multiple exposures and Photoshop - maybe even the new Lightroom grad function. It's just a different (digital) kind of fiddly.

But with no adapter I can only muse.

Sep 25, 2008 at 12:45 PM

ChrisDM
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p.2 #3 · p.2 #3 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

Marc Adamus wrote:
Primes are practically useless to me. Almost all of my photography is very hiking and backpacking intensive, and requires me to keep gear at a minimum. I can't justify having 6-8 different primes to cover the range I need, nor is 21mm wide enough for many of the perspectives I like to shoot. 3 lenses and a 1Ds III is already a ton to carry around when one's base pack weight can already be 30-50 pounds. I want to cover the 14-200 range in three lenses, tops.

Hi Mark, I'm a real fan of your work. I also backpack with a 1Ds3 for my landscape photography, and prefer zooms for framing. I also print large and have these prints represented in a fine art gallery. So my quest for image quality is not just "gear ego", but actual ego

While I appreciate the new Nikon's optical qualities, I have no interest in lugging heavy 2.8 glass 8 miles up a mountain slope just to shoot it at f16... For this I've found the 17-40L to be ideal. It is wide, light and optically excellent. I also have dabbled in the "alternative glass", and while a Zeiss or Zuiko prime is sometimes technically sharper under a microscope, I didn't feel that the real-world results justified the extra expense and forfeiture of zoom convenience. Stopping them down equalizes them for all practical purposes... Nor can I get around the fact that I can't mount filters to it, which basically makes it useless as a landscape lens for me. Even though I typically handhold my graduated NDs anyways, I still love to use polarizers where they'll help. I had to handhold a circular polarizer the other day when I forgot my 72-77 step-up ring for my 24TS-E, and it was more trouble than it was worth, especially while trying to hold a grad on top of that!

Chris M
www.imagineimagery.com

Sep 25, 2008 at 01:22 PM

samkramer
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p.2 #4 · p.2 #4 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

just a quick question- what do you object to the 16-35?

Sep 25, 2008 at 06:11 PM

dennishh
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p.2 #5 · p.2 #5 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

Hi Mark,
Your work is amazing! I have been using the 14-24 on my 1dsMKlll for a few months now and agree that is just the best solution out there. Even at 24mm it's spectacular. For your use it would be just perfect. I found an old gradated filter 5"x7.5" and put it directly against the lens shade at 14mm, there is no cut off, but it just makes it. You probably would have get some slightly wider custom filters from one of the suppliers to film companies. http://www.formatt.co.uk/filter-sizes.aspx I've stopped using graduated filters in the past few months and am using the gradation tool in Lightroom 2, which I find better in many ways. With the new tools for saturation and gradation in Lightroom I only need a polarizer to take off reflections and using HDR techniques even replace that most of the time. It would be very easy to make an adapter out of black foam core and Velcro for the 6" glass filters.
Dennis

Sep 25, 2008 at 07:45 PM

ChrisDM
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p.2 #6 · p.2 #6 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

dennishh wrote:
I've stopped using graduated filters in the past few months and am using the gradation tool in Lightroom 2, which I find better in many ways. With the new tools for saturation and gradation in Lightroom I only need a polarizer to take off reflections and using HDR techniques even replace that most of the time. It would be very easy to make an adapter out of black foam core and Velcro for the 6" glass filters.
Dennis

When you bring up a shadow area in post processing, rather than correcting for it with grads in-camera, you introduce shadow noise which can significantly reduce image quality in that area. Also, with filters your stops are limitless while post recovery is a stop or two at best.

Chris M
www.imagineimagery.com

Sep 25, 2008 at 08:20 PM

Lovesong
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p.2 #7 · p.2 #7 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

ChrisDM wrote:
When you bring up a shadow area in post processing, rather than correcting for it with grads in-camera, you introduce shadow noise which can significantly reduce image quality in that area. Also, with filters your stops are limitless while post recovery is a stop or two at best.

Chris M
www.imagineimagery.com

While I think that that is certainly true when people attempt to make HDR images from a single RAW file, proper bracketing should give you well-exposed shadows and highlights.

That being said, I still prefer using ND Grads, as the final results seem more natural and definitely sharper.

Sep 25, 2008 at 08:34 PM

ChrisDM
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p.2 #8 · p.2 #8 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

Lovesong wrote:
While I think that that is certainly true when people attempt to make HDR images from a single RAW file, proper bracketing should give you well-exposed shadows and highlights.

That being said, I still prefer using ND Grads, as the final results seem more natural and definitely sharper.

I was referring to Dennis' comment about preferring the use of the Lightroom Grad tool versus actual filters.

Chris M
www.imagineimagery.com

Sep 25, 2008 at 09:07 PM

dennishh
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p.2 #9 · p.2 #9 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

Hi Chris,
Shadow noise can be controlled when using a Lightroom gradation by applying minus clarity to the gradation. I sometimes shoot a simple three shot bracket and blend the images reducing shadow noise and enhancing highlight detail.
Dennis

Sep 25, 2008 at 09:12 PM

ChrisDM
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p.2 #10 · p.2 #10 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

dennishh wrote:
Hi Chris,
Shadow noise can be controlled when using a Lightroom gradation by applying minus clarity to the gradation. I sometimes shoot a simple three shot bracket and blend the images reducing shadow noise and enhancing highlight detail.
Dennis

"Minus clarity" doesn't sound like an effect a guy that chooses to shoot with a 1Ds3/Nikon 14-24 combo would apply...

Sep 26, 2008 at 07:37 AM

dennishh
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p.2 #11 · p.2 #11 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

If your getting noise in the sky area, when your applying a gradation filter the -clarity works really well. It would not be applied to the whole image. Have you tried Lightroom 2?
Dennis

Sep 26, 2008 at 08:15 AM

ChrisDM
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p.2 #12 · p.2 #12 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

dennishh wrote:
If your getting noise in the sky area, when your applying a gradation filter the -clarity works really well. It would not be applied to the whole image. Have you tried Lightroom 2?
Dennis

Yes, I use LR2 extensively for a lot of my work. But for serious landscape post processing, Photoshop can do all this and more, with layered masks, graduations, selective dodging and burning, Gaussian blurs etc etc... There certainly isn't an easier way tha nLR to access many of these functions though. But especially when you're talking about exposure, there's simply no substitute for getting it right at time of capture.

Chris M
www.imagineimagery.com

Sep 26, 2008 at 10:04 AM

dennishh
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p.2 #13 · p.2 #13 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

"there's simply no substitute for getting it right at time of capture."
Your right about that! I like lightroom for it's non destructive application and ability to do it fast. I wish I was at the pool for a couple of drinks with those models, great work!
Dennis

Sep 26, 2008 at 01:36 PM

ChrisDM
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p.2 #14 · p.2 #14 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

dennishh wrote:
"there's simply no substitute for getting it right at time of capture."
Your right about that! I like lightroom for it's non destructive application and ability to do it fast. I wish I was at the pool for a couple of drinks with those models, great work!
Dennis

Thanks Dennis, I wish I was in the pool with them also. I was just there to press the shutter button, but there were other buttons there I would have rather been pressing...

Sep 26, 2008 at 06:24 PM

benchase
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p.2 #15 · p.2 #15 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

This might be a crazy idea, but sometimes you have to think outside the box, and since this lens is so awesome - it may just be worth it.

Until recently, I was a 4x5 large format film shooter. One of the resources that I've used in the past is SK Grimes. They are the "photographer's machinist". They can pretty much fabricate anything, take a look at some of their examples. Why not have them engineer a mount that will fit over the top of the 14-24, and allow crazy-sized filter threads to be attached? I haven't looked recently, but I'm almost certain there are huge polarizers out there.

I use Singh-Ray's also, and I'm betting that Bob Singh would be willing to custom make wider grads.. 120x120mm would do it I would think.

Ben Chase

Sep 26, 2008 at 09:30 PM

SharonVL
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p.2 #16 · p.2 #16 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

Uphill sailing has got to be a tough sport.

Sharon

Sep 27, 2008 at 04:07 PM

benchase
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p.2 #17 · p.2 #17 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

Off the top of my head, it seems to me that it would make sense to have an adapter that would fit over the lens, and have the threaded ring oversize enough such that it did not vignette at the widest setting of the zoom. IMHO, the closer to the edge of the petals would be better than mounting on an arm. My reasoning for this is that something that extends out from the camera (or lens), more or less acts as a sail in the wind, and also forces one to cantilever that weight out into space. The engineer and backpacker in me tells me that a friction mount over the front of the lens, made of something similar to the Lee Foundation holder would be the most bulletproof approach in this case. I'd want something lightweight, uncomplicated, that can be attached and unattached in seconds. I can't tell you how many times fiddling with adapters and such at the last few seconds of sweet light has screwed me.

In addition, I believe this approach would be less problematic than trying to get an adapter to fit inside the petaled lens hood itself - the last thing we would want to do is have something potentially make contact with the front element.

Given the interest in what is clearly a ground-breaking wide-angle lens (let alone a zoom lens), I suspect that at least a modest market would be out there to make it profitable to find a way to adapt this lens to use filters.

Ben Chase

Sep 27, 2008 at 06:36 PM

SharonVL
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p.2 #18 · p.2 #18 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

I just found this. Made me smile.

Sharon

Oct 02, 2008 at 10:19 PM

SoundHound
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p.2 #19 · p.2 #19 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

Once more Zeiss folks. 14mm is not 21mm! A 21mm lens does not replace a 14mm lens. The discussion is not about a 14-24mm lens with its zoom collar frozen at 21mm. And, IMHO, the idea is to find/see the shot then select the lens that works with the shot-not the other way around.

Oct 03, 2008 at 09:51 AM

SharonVL
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p.2 #20 · p.2 #20 · Nikon 14-24 on 1Ds3 + filters question

Marc, what did you decide no this lens?

Sharon

Oct 14, 2008 at 12:01 PM

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