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Archive 2017 · rev 50 revisited.

Zichar
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p.8 #1 · p.8 #1 · rev 50 revisited.

If I may add, the Nikon 50mm f1.8 should work as it's an AF-D lens, i.e. it's got the aperture ring.

Dec 28, 2010 at 04:06 AM

kaiserkudo
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p.8 #2 · p.8 #2 · rev 50 revisited.

Quick (and probably dumb) question - is it more advantageous to do this lens reversal on a crop sensor camera? Is it going to give you slightly more magnification?

And when looking for a 28mm - am I correct in thinking that it doesn't have to be the best, highest performing one you can find. Reason I ask is with the last pic posted above - all the reviews I could find spoke of the Nikon Series E as vastly inferior to the AIS version with CRC - yet that photo above using the "cheap" Series E Nikkor is pretty damm amazing.
In this field I guess its more about technique and perseverance rather than the equipment?

Lastly, if people are hand holding these rigs - how do you manage operation of the aperture, especially if you're shooting at f/8-f/16, and with tubes - I'd imagine it would be really dark. Do hold the aperture wide open with a finger, and let if snap closed just before you release the shutter?

Jan 12, 2011 at 07:46 PM

kaiserkudo
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p.8 #3 · p.8 #3 · rev 50 revisited.

Anyway here my newbie attempt from this afternoon hand holding a 35mm reversed again my camera. (waiting for my reverse adapter and flash bracket to arrive.)

Don't know what these little fellas are called -perhaps someone can make an ID for me?

Still need to work on getting the eyes in focus -heaps of fun tho!

"[/IMG]

Jan 13, 2011 at 01:27 AM

Zichar
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p.8 #4 · p.8 #4 · rev 50 revisited.

The Series E are less regarded because of coating, plasticky build and reduced number of elements. In normal shooting, the lack of a multicoated front element introduces flare and loss of contrast in your images
However, since you're gonna reverse mount it, that makes the front element coating to be redundant for your usage.

There's plenty of 28mm lenses. CRC, Close Range Correction allows for better optimization at close-up distances - again for when the lens is mounted the normal way.
http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/specs.html

For information on MF Nikon lenses, Curtis (CGrindahl) has an excellent thread going on in the Nikon subforum.

(I don't quite subscribe to the Series E lenses being inferior; there are plenty of gems in the Series E lenses: the negative is beneficial for bargain hunters. Makes them light, cheap and good if you are MF inclined. The 75-150mm E is one that comes to mind, the 50mm E makes a great pancake lens)

Read about Series E lenses here (mir is a great resource btw):
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/emfgfg20/eserieslenses/index.htm

Jan 13, 2011 at 01:28 AM

kaiserkudo
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p.8 #5 · p.8 #5 · rev 50 revisited.

Thanks. I have been dabbling in a few of those resources which are a great help.

Jan 13, 2011 at 01:48 AM

khatch
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p.8 #6 · p.8 #6 · rev 50 revisited.

I've read about the reverse lens technique a long time ago but never tried it until now.

My old beat up freebie watch. A 50 2.5 Macro reversed - handheld to the camera with no mount. I racked the focus all the way out. This is full frame.


	http://www.guywithacamera.com/XE5W7047.jpg

P.S. I think I finally found an avatar.

Jan 29, 2011 at 08:05 PM

Bill Hornaday
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p.8 #7 · p.8 #7 · rev 50 revisited.

With the reversal ring method Am I correct that you will get bigger magnification with a wide angle lens (35mm) than a medium (50mm) or a reversed telephoto (100+mm)?
Thanks in advance,

Bill

May 05, 2011 at 03:45 PM

bwhealon
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p.8 #8 · p.8 #8 · rev 50 revisited.

That sounds correct to me.

May 05, 2011 at 08:17 PM

Alex53
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p.8 #9 · p.8 #9 · rev 50 revisited.

Awesome images on this thread.

I have a question.

What differences can I expect between using a reversed 50mm straight on the camera and using it reversed on my 100mm macro lens?

How about using a wider lens (like the 18-55mm canon kit lens) reversed on my macro lens?

May 15, 2011 at 05:24 AM

Tom Hicks
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p.8 #10 · p.8 #10 · rev 50 revisited.

The 50 rev, straight to camera body will give you approx 1to1 or more depending on the 50mm lens used . The 50 on the 100 will give you 2 to1 , you get that by dividing 50 into 100 if you use a 24mm you get 4to1 . When using the lens straight to cam you have to set the lens at the f stop you intend to use and you will be looking thru that f stop the image can be dark depending on the light. attached to to 100 you would set the rev lens to the widest opening or f stop and the 100 would control the f stop used . the image you see thru the came will be brighter. That in a nut shell is the only difference.

May 15, 2011 at 01:40 PM

Bill Hornaday
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p.8 #11 · p.8 #11 · rev 50 revisited.

Excuse me. The pic above was with the 50mm Nikon lens reversed. Sorry for the misinfo, but my question is still the same.

Bill

May 15, 2011 at 10:23 PM

Tom Hicks
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p.8 #12 · p.8 #12 · rev 50 revisited.

Bill with the rev lens and even the $1000.00 Canon MP-E 65 you have to move your body in and out to focus.

May 15, 2011 at 10:41 PM

Alex53
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p.8 #13 · p.8 #13 · rev 50 revisited.

Tom Hicks wrote:
The 50 rev, straight to camera body will give you approx 1to1 or more depending on the 50mm lens used . The 50 on the 100 will give you 2 to1 , you get that by dividing 50 into 100 if you use a 24mm you get 4to1 . When using the lens straight to cam you have to set the lens at the f stop you intend to use and you will be looking thru that f stop the image can be dark depending on the light. attached to to 100 you would set the rev lens to...Show more →

Thanks, that makes sense. Can I expect a lot of vignetting?

May 16, 2011 at 02:49 AM

Tom Hicks
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p.8 #14 · p.8 #14 · rev 50 revisited.

Alex53 wrote:
Thanks, that makes sense. Can I expect a lot of vignetting?

Sometimes, it depends on the lens , you may have to put a tube between the camera body and the 100 ,12mm tube will usually fix the vignetting.

May 16, 2011 at 07:39 AM

Alex53
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p.8 #15 · p.8 #15 · rev 50 revisited.

Tom Hicks wrote:
Sometimes, it depends on the lens , you may have to put a tube between the camera body and the 100 ,12mm tube will usually fix the vignetting.

Thanks. That's good, I have a set of 3 tubes.

May 16, 2011 at 08:41 AM

Srdjule
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p.8 #16 · p.8 #16 · rev 50 revisited.

I experimented with Helios 44-2 reversed on Nikon 18-55, and this is what i got:

I have also tried to put it on Sigma 70-300, and magnification is ridiculously high so as dof.
Monitor pixels showing white color:

May 19, 2011 at 01:09 AM

JJuLLiAAn
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p.8 #17 · p.8 #17 · rev 50 revisited.

How do you reverse a lens?

Aug 06, 2011 at 10:59 PM

Nijay
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p.8 #18 · p.8 #18 · rev 50 revisited.

JJuLLiAAn wrote:
How do you reverse a lens?

http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Filter-Thread-Reverse-Adapter/dp/B001G4NBSC

Aug 23, 2011 at 12:39 PM

OutOfBreath
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p.8 #19 · p.8 #19 · rev 50 revisited.

Hi there,

long time lurker first time poster here :-)

I've just ordered a reversing ring so I can get into some reversed macro shots.

I currently have a 50mm lens that I plan to reverse straight onto the camera body. I also have some tubes.

What is the difference between using a reversed 50mm attached to some tubes or using a shorter focal length without tubes (eg 28mm).... Am I able to get similar magnifications using a reversed 50 and some tubes compared to a straight reversed 28mm?

Thanks.
Paul

Aug 28, 2011 at 05:18 AM

TucsonTom
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p.8 #20 · p.8 #20 · rev 50 revisited.

Well, it all depends ...

For a given focal length, the farther the lens is from the focal plane, the more magnification.
For a given distance (extension) the shorter focal length lens gives more magnification.

One of the thing it depends on is lens construction. The "optical center" of a lens that you
want to measure to depends on lens construction.

As a concrete example, I am working with an older (FD mount) 50mm/f3.5 canon macro lens.
Built into the lens (as is the case with many macro lenses) is a fairly substantial "hood", and
when the lens is reversed, this actually places the optical elements at a fair bit of extension
from the camera -- sort of like a built in extension tube -- so this lens reversed might give
similar magnification as a 28mm reversed and mounted directly on the camera.

But I never mount them directly on the camera -- in my case I am using a nice old FD series
belows as an infinitely variable "extension tube" which I like a lot.

But the thing to do is .... try things out !! It isn't all about magnification though, at least it
certainly isn't once you find out ways to get the amount of magnification you want.
I am in the midst of trying all the different lenses I have to see which give me the best results
in terms of resolution, lack of flare, color saturation, contrast, overall image quality.
The main things is to experiment and try things, expect to be surprised.

Aug 28, 2011 at 11:11 AM

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