jcolwell
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(1) or (2)
(1) Do you know its register distance? That's the distance from the rear of the lens mount to the camera sensor, with the lens at infinity focus. This tells you where the lens has to be positioned, and determines how much working distance you have, to create an adapter.
Knowing the working distance tells you if there's a good chance for success, or not. For example, I have a Kowa 90mm f/1.4 Xray system lens (91mm diameter male thread mount), that has a super-short register (as do most cine lenses). I experimented enough with it on FF DSLR to know it was too-limited in focus range, for that type of camera (i.e. you can't get the end of the lens close enough to the sensor, to reach or even get near to, infinity focus). Once I get a FF mirrorless camera, I'll haul it out again.
I've made adapters for many weird combinations. One of the best ways to start, is to find a 'system mount' that the lens can fit within, and use that to bridge the gap betwen DIY and existing systems. For example, I have a bunch of large format lenses, in barrel and in shutter, that I've mounted to Mamiya M645 'body caps', by drilling a hole in the cap that the lens fits into. Many of these lenses have 'retaining rings' that make it easy, but anything that sticks the lens to a 'standard' mount device should work. Originally, I used RTV adhesive-sealer for this, but I found that it shrinks too much, after about 10 years. Now, I use Shoe Goo. For prototypes, I sometimes use 'fish glue' for the early tests, as it's easy to apply, dries hard, and is completely and rapidly dissolved by a drop or two of water.
I'd start by trying to figure out the register distance. I'd put the camera on a tripod and wield the lens in front of it. Point the rig at something far-ish away (something out the window), and then see how OOF it is, with the lens held up against the camera. Assuming it's not in focus here, I'd move the lens a bit further away from the camera, if it gets 'more diffuse' (i.e. more OOF), then the lens register is shorter that the camera (i.e. you need to stick the lens butt inside the camera, to get infinity focus). Not good. OTHO, if it sharpens up a bit, keep going further away until it locks in. Where it locks in, is the register distance you're looking for.
You can do this 'the right way' (camera and lens each on their own mount, and one or both on focus rails), or you can do it with a lot of hand waving. First time I try with a new type of lens, I often do both the camera and lens handheld.
If the register experiment is successful, and an adapter is warranted, I'd find a short length of thin-walled tube that fits nicely into the rear threaded section of the lens, and use this as Part 1. Then, attach Part 1 to an appropriate camera body cap (or something that I can attach to a body cap), and you're almost done. Gaffers tape would be used to hold together most of this stuff, until you figure out if this lens/camera combination actually works, and then I'd go to straight to Mark II (i.e. less tape, more glue).
(2) Otherwise, you could send a photo of the lens and a few specs to SK Grimes, and they'll make you an adapter (or maybe they already have one), or maybe they'll tell you why it's not worth the effort.
Good luck.
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