Home · Register · Join Upload & Sell

Moderated by: Fred Miranda
Username  

  New fredmiranda.com Mobile Site
  New Feature: SMS Notification alert
  New Feature: Buy & Sell Watchlist
  

FM Forums | Leica & Alternative Gear | Join Upload & Sell

1       2       3              5       end
  

Film stocks

  
 
OregonSun
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #1 · p.4 #1 · Film stocks


Fred Miranda wrote:
Great comps! I really like the processing and halation. Did you use any filter on the lens to achieve this effect?


Thanks Fred!

No filters used, post processing was just conversion in NLP and some contrast adjustments, along with a little noise reduction to tame the grain.



Nov 16, 2023 at 11:23 AM
OregonSun
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #2 · p.4 #2 · Film stocks


Portra 800 is a film I don't use very often but really like. I love the soft colors you can get with it.


Canon EOS 3

ZE Milvus 21mm f/2.8




EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM













GSW690II














Dec 05, 2023 at 11:10 PM
Desmolicious
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #3 · p.4 #3 · Film stocks


Look, I'm not saying Ektar can give some really saturated colours but, yeah, I am.

Nikon Z7 w/ CV 40 1.2



Leica M7 w/ same CV 40 1.2, and Ektaaaaarrrr



p.s not taken at the same time or the same day. But it is the same tree.



Dec 08, 2023 at 07:19 PM
retrofocus
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #4 · p.4 #4 · Film stocks


I used Delta 3200 twice, but prefer instead using HP5+ and pushing it to ISO 1600 instead. Even when HP5+ is pushed to ISO 3200, it shows much less grain than Delta 3200. Delta 3200 is too grainy for my taste in photography.

Here a few photos with Delta 3200 taken at ISO 3200, developed with Xtol.









Dec 08, 2023 at 10:09 PM
Desmolicious
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #5 · p.4 #5 · Film stocks


retrofocus wrote:
I used Delta 3200 twice, but prefer instead using HP5+ and pushing it to ISO 1600 instead. Even when HP5+ is pushed to ISO 3200, it shows much less grain than Delta 3200. Delta 3200 is too grainy for my taste in photography.

Here a few photos with Delta 3200 taken at ISO 3200, developed with Xtol.

https://martinbluhm.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-10/p2201280982-5.jpg


https://martinbluhm.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-10/p2201280855-5.jpg


https://martinbluhm.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-10/p2201281084-6.jpg



Yeah I don't get Delta 3200 or TMAX 3200. Pushing regular 400 B&W films always gets much better results unless you really do want a grainy image.



Dec 09, 2023 at 08:43 PM
panos.v
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #6 · p.4 #6 · Film stocks


Desmolicious wrote:
Yeah I don't get Delta 3200 or TMAX 3200. Pushing regular 400 B&W films always gets much better results unless you really do want a grainy image.


I don't get Delta 3200. Actually I do, if you want that low contrast super grainy image. Which I never want.

TMax 3200 though can be pretty good and I do like it at 2000-3200, it may be a bit grainier than, say, HP5+3 but contrast will be a bit more tame.



Dec 11, 2023 at 10:55 AM
bjhurley
Online
• • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #7 · p.4 #7 · Film stocks


panos.v wrote:
I don't get Delta 3200. Actually I do, if you want that low contrast super grainy image. Which I never want.

TMax 3200 though can be pretty good and I do like it at 2000-3200, it may be a bit grainier than, say, HP5+3 but contrast will be a bit more tame.


It's funny, Johnny Martyr, who shots both of the 3200 films professionally at EI 6400 for weddings and receptions, says that Delta 3200 is sharper and more contrasty, whereas TMax 3200 is lower contrast and more tonal. He uses Delta when the light is less contrasty and TMax in higher-contrast conditions. https://johnnymartyr.wordpress.com/2023/02/22/theres-more-to-shooting-3200-speed-film/

From what I've seen Delta 3200 is a lot nicer in 120, but then you have the issue of medium-format lenses being generally slower so in low light you're not much better off.

After some experimentation with both of these films, I've pretty much abandoned the idea of low-light film photography; digital is so much better for my purposes. I have had good-enough results shooting XP2 at EI 800 and even 1600 and processing normally, so if I am ever required to shoot film in darker places that'll probably be my choice. In many of the dark jazz clubs where I'm taking photos, my digital shots are a stop or more underexposed at ISO 12,800 and I don't think any film can come close to handling that...plus I'd be limited to B&W and I prefer having the choice of color or B&W for those photos.



Dec 11, 2023 at 11:13 AM
Desmolicious
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #8 · p.4 #8 · Film stocks


This is Kentmere 400 pushed to 1600. I did not even try 3200, but if it is this much better than Tmax and Delta 3200 at 1600, I'm sure it will also be way better than them at 3200.

This is why I don't get those fake 3200 films - unless what you want is super grainy pics. If you want 'decent' pics at 1600 or 3200, use Kentmere, HP5 etc. They have to be pushed just like the fake 3200 films have to, so there is no difference in the process, just the end result.

Kentmere 400 @ 1600






Dec 11, 2023 at 11:46 AM
OregonSun
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #9 · p.4 #9 · Film stocks


I shoot Delta 3200 at 3200 and have it lab developed (D76) with no special instructions. Results are fine by me for night photos. I do run Neat Image noise reduction on them to tame the grain sometimes. First two examples below are 35mm, last one was shot on a half frame camera.

I haven't messed with pushing, since I don't develop my own. If I ever start I'll definitely try that out and compare to Delta 3200.













Dec 11, 2023 at 01:48 PM
rattymouse
Offline
• • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #10 · p.4 #10 · Film stocks


I always liked Delta 3200, especially in medium format as my lenses were f/3.5 or slower.







Dec 11, 2023 at 01:56 PM
 


Search in Used Dept. 

OregonSun
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #11 · p.4 #11 · Film stocks


Desmolicious wrote:
This is Kentmere 400 pushed to 1600. I did not even try 3200, but if it is this much better than Tmax and Delta 3200 at 1600, I'm sure it will also be way better than them at 3200.

This is why I don't get those fake 3200 films - unless what you want is super grainy pics. If you want 'decent' pics at 1600 or 3200, use Kentmere, HP5 etc. They have to be pushed just like the fake 3200 films have to, so there is no difference in the process, just the end result.

Kentmere 400 @ 1600


I'm curious, have you tried comparing Kentmere 400 or HP5 pushed to 3200 vs Delta or TMAX 3200 shot at box speed and developed normally for night shots?

At least for the night shooting I tend to do, the high contrast due to artificial lights in the frame tends to minimize visible grain compared to more low contrast interior or daytime scenes like your examples above.



Dec 11, 2023 at 02:51 PM
Desmolicious
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #12 · p.4 #12 · Film stocks


OregonSun wrote:
I'm curious, have you tried comparing Kentmere 400 or HP5 pushed to 3200 vs Delta or TMAX 3200 shot at box speed and developed normally for night shots?

At least for the night shooting I tend to do, the high contrast due to artificial lights in the frame tends to minimize visible grain compared to more low contrast interior or daytime scenes like your examples above.


These are from the same roll of Kentmere 400 pushed to 1600, but either in my dimly lit garage (equivalent to night shots) or dimly lit indoors. Closest I have to night shots! No flash used - just wide open and low shutter speed w 40 1.2 lens.













Dec 11, 2023 at 03:10 PM
Fred Miranda
Offline
Admin
Upload & Sell: On
p.4 #13 · p.4 #13 · Film stocks


Question for the experts in DF96 Monobath B&W development:

I came across information stating that 10 degrees should be added for every +1 push stop. For instance, at box speed, the B&W film should be heated to 80 degrees for development. Therefore, for a +2 stop push film, the temperature would be 100 degrees. Is this correct?

Also, should I add +15 seconds of development after each roll of film? For C41, it's only 2% per development, but I read that it's 15 seconds per development when using DF96. Thanks in advance.



Dec 20, 2023 at 10:33 AM
Desmolicious
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #14 · p.4 #14 · Film stocks


Fred Miranda wrote:
Question for the experts in DF96 Monobath B&W development:

I came across information stating that 10 degrees should be added for every +1 push stop. For instance, at box speed, the B&W film should be heated to 80 degrees for development. Therefore, for a +2 stop push film, the temperature would be 100 degrees. Is this correct?

Also, should I add +15 seconds of development after each roll of film? For C41, it's only 2% per development, but I read that it's 15 seconds per development when using DF96. Thanks in advance.


1. Try and use 75 as default for temp, and use that as a base line to push from.
2. At 75 Cinestill says to agitate 10 secs every minute after the initial agitation. I have found it is better to agitate 5 secs every 30 secs to prevent bromide streaks.
3. Yes, 10 degrees for every 1 stop push.
4. Yes, 15 secs for every consecutive roll. The thing to know is that is the minimum amount of time for the film to complete developing and fixing. It does not matter if you go over - you cannot over develop using this monobath.
5. Sediment will form at the bottom of the bottle. When I first started using it people were saying to run it through filters etc to remove it. Do NOT do that. It is a waste of time and you will lose volume as the filter will soak some up, and you are exposing the DF96 unnecessarily to air, speeding up its oxidation. Just make sure not to shake the bottle when you use it, so the sediment stays on the bottom. Also, when you wash the film, any sediment will be removed.

This really is the easiest way to develop film. Remember than T-grain films like Delta, Tmax, Acros need double dev time to clear the fog base. I find this dev works best with TriX, HP5, Kentmere - regular B&W films. It is awesome with Kentmere 400 pushed.



Dec 20, 2023 at 11:45 AM
Fred Miranda
Offline
Admin
Upload & Sell: On
p.4 #15 · p.4 #15 · Film stocks


Desmolicious wrote:
1. Try and use 75 as default for temp, and use that as a base line to push from.
2. At 75 Cinestill says to agitate 10 secs every minute after the initial agitation. I have found it is better to agitate 5 secs every 30 secs to prevent bromide streaks.
3. Yes, 10 degrees for every 1 stop push.
4. Yes, 15 secs for every consecutive roll. The thing to know is that is the minimum amount of time for the film to complete developing and fixing. It does not matter if you go over - you cannot over develop using this
...Show more

I've printed this info! Thank you so much Russ!



Dec 22, 2023 at 07:40 PM
Desmolicious
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #16 · p.4 #16 · Film stocks


Fred Miranda wrote:
I've printed this info! Thank you so much Russ!


First off, itís Huss!
Secondly, itís Huss!
Thirdly, your're welcome!



Dec 22, 2023 at 07:50 PM
Fred Miranda
Offline
Admin
Upload & Sell: On
p.4 #17 · p.4 #17 · Film stocks


Desmolicious wrote:
First off, itís Huss!
Secondly, itís Huss!
Thirdly, your're welcome!


I knew it was Huss. Just a typo. Thanks again!



Dec 22, 2023 at 09:13 PM
Lee Saxon
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #18 · p.4 #18 · Film stocks


Fred Miranda wrote:
I knew it was Huss. Just a typo. Thanks again!


Gah, Fred, how could you not know the name of the person who single-handedly makes 60% of the posts on your website!?




Dec 22, 2023 at 09:17 PM
Desmolicious
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #19 · p.4 #19 · Film stocks


Lee Saxon wrote:
Gah, Fred, how could you not know the name of the person who single-handedly makes 60% of the posts on your website!?



It's all about metrics...



Dec 22, 2023 at 11:42 PM
OregonSun
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.4 #20 · p.4 #20 · Film stocks


I shot a roll of 35mm Rollei RPX 400 last week, and it reminded me why I've only shot XP2 Super for so long for b&w. I couldn't believe how much grain there was with the traditional b&w film.

I know, grain is a big part of the film 'look', but I've really come to love the smooth whites and nearly grainless character of XP2, not to mention it's wide exposure latitude.

In 120, I think it looks similar to Pan F+ or Acros II, perhaps not as wide a range of tones as those, especially in the darks. Of course, it's a lot faster, so I often use it in 120 so I can shoot handheld.

XP2 - 35mm













120










Jan 03, 2024 at 10:40 PM
1       2       3              5       end






FM Forums | Leica & Alternative Gear | Join Upload & Sell

1       2       3              5       end
    
 

You are not logged in. Login or Register

Username       Or Reset password



This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.