bman212121
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Califmike33 wrote:
I think you're right I may have gotten the wrong camera I would like to have shell of depth of field I don't like the m6 Mark 2 the things too tiny too small of a camera.
I think you're right I should get a full frame lucky the cameras returnable.
But what if I was using the sigma 50 mm F 1.4 art would not get shallow depth of field even on a crop sensor?
I would suggest try it first and see what you think. Rather than spend more $$$ you should get some hands on time with the combo you have and then see if it's acceptable or not.
To give you an idea on that same link I gave you, shooting crop body + 50mm @ f2.8 framed for a head and shoulders portrait. It requires a working distance of ~5ft and provides the following:
Depth of Field
Total 0' 3.82" 97 mm
Near Limit 5' 0.20" 1.53 m
Far Limit 5' 4.00" 1.63 m
Infront Subj. 0' 1.85" 47 mm
Behind Subj. 0' 1.97" 50 mm
https://www.pointsinfocus.com/tools/depth-of-field-and-equivalent-lens-calculator/#{%22c%22:[{%22f%22:9,%22av%22:%222.8%22,%22fl%22:50,%22d%22:1576,%22cm%22:%220%22}],%22m%22:0}
In focus is less than 2" in front of your focal point, and about 2" behind it. Assuming you put a single AF point on an eye of a single person, that means their nose would be in focus, and back to about their ear is also in focus. If the subject has hair behind their shoulders I would expect to start seeing some falloff in that area. As long as you position your subject say 2 - 3 feet away from whatever is behind them, anything in the background should be blurred quite well.
I'd consider that fairly shallow, and if you don't have your set up figured out, you could easily miss focus. It's far more likely you might mistake the image as being 'not sharp' because of a missed focus than because the system isn't capable.
The other point to note, when the framing is the same on the same sized sensor, the DoF is the same. If you grabbed a 135mm lens, shot that also at F2.8, but then backed up to 14' to account for the same head and shoulders, the DoF is the same ~3.8" total DoF. It will change the look of the photo due to compression, but for DoF it won't matter.
A full frame will provide more shallow DoF using the same settings as the crop (focal length, aperture, framing), but you have to determine if that provides additional benefit or not. The good thing is you can just shoot the 50 f1.8 wide open on your crop and it will almost simulate shooting a full frame camera around F2.8. It's a touch less shallow, but should be close enough for approximation. Want to know what F4 looks like on full frame? shoot at F2.5. Keep in mind a lens is a lens, and that putting that 50 on the full frame won't make it perform any differently. If you wanted to attempt to even shoot F2.8 or wider on full frame you absolutely need a lens that can do it. In that case you might want something like the 85 F1.4 or the 135 F2 mentioned, because the lens has to be able to deliver great image quality at brighter apertures. (Hence why you pay a premium for those L lenses)
You certainly could also try one of the Arts, but you should also determine if you prefer 50, 85, or something else as well. You will drive yourself mad trying to pick the 'perfect' combination before you actually try some things, so I would suggest using what you already have and seeing what works and what you think could improve.
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But in those instances where the background looks too busy (my original 100-400 did this), selecting the background in Lightroom and using a little negative clarity and dehaze can help.
