rscheffler Offline Upload & Sell: Off
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LuckyStrike88 wrote:
Continuous AF on ... does that function make the camera sound like something is loose inside the body?
That setting makes the camera/lens combo focus continuously and if you point it at something outside the focus range, you might hear the lens hit its focus range limit, or rack back and forth if it can't lock.
A loose sound could also be the IBIS mechanism. When the camera is off, IBIS will also be off, which means the sensor will be free to shift around within the IBIS mechanism. If you jostle the camera, you'll then hear a rattle. This caught me off guard when I unboxed my brand new R6II back in December. The rattle with that camera was so noticeable compared to the R6 I had used before, it was to the point that I brought it to the attention of the store staff thinking something might be broken inside. Once a charged battery was inserted and the camera turned on, the rattle was gone. Turn off the camera and it's back. The unanimous conclusion has been it's simply the unpowered IBIS unit.
I'm also an ex-1DXII user but can't say I ever experienced the AF delay on start-up you've mentioned with any of the R series bodies I borrowed from CPS, including the R5, or with my own R6 and R6II. I'd be inclined to suggest finding another R5 to compare against yours. Does it happens just when turning on the camera, or also when waking from sleep? If the latter, then I'd suggest lengthening the delay before the camera sleeps so you're not having to constantly wake it and wait through the delay.
Mirrorless is different AF technology than DSLRs and the current Canon mirrorless cameras are only sensitive to lines running in one direction (can't remember if it's vertical or horizontal - I think it's vertical), whereas cameras like the 1DXII had many 'cross' type AF points that would lock onto both horizontal and vertical lines in the subject. I've found for what I shoot (people events and sports) that my R6 and R6II usually snap into focus very affirmatively, but not always. If for some reason AF is having difficulty locking, it will really slow down focus drive and may seem like it's not even focusing. Low contrast can be a factor, but also particularly backlit situations with low contrast subjects can be very problematic compared to DSLRs.
I've been a long-time back button focus user, since the EOS-1 days. But that was because SLR/DSLR AF was not 'smart' like mirrorless. It would just focus on whatever was the closest target within the AF box, so inevitably you'd run into situations where it would refocus on something you didn't want it to focus on. But mirrorless with subject/face/eye detection and tracking is a lot more 'sticky' once it has locked onto the intended subject, to the point where IMO the need for BBF is greatly diminished compared to DSLRs. I'm not sure I'm ready to move away from BBF because it's such an ingrained habit. And I have the back buttons set up for different AF scenarios. But when I shoot sports, I change my second 'grab shot' camera with the short lens on it, to initiate AF with the shutter release so I can just mash it down without having to think about also using BBF when a play suddenly lands in front of me. So far this has worked very well with mirrorless.
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