sebjmatthews Offline Upload & Sell: Off
|
You want to be using the TS-E lenses (or third-party equivalents), which are all-manual anyway, so things like focus, MFA and IBIS are irrelevant. You'll be indoors, so sealing doesn't matter. To produce a finished photo with the right DR—cleanly—you'll need to composite a couple of exposures, so sensor tech doesn't really matter... in other words, as long as it has an EF mount (for simplicity), and it has enough MP to cover however the images will be viewed in the end, it doesn't really matter what body you go for.
If I were starting again today, from scratch, I'd get a 5DS (R or regular, doesn't really matter since you'll inevitably downsample the files anyway; I'd just get whichever I found the best deal on in good condition), pick up one of the TS-E 24s, and call it a day. Even the first-gen 24mm, or the Samyang/Rokinon version, are great optics at architecture/interior apertures like f/5.6-11. Plenty of resolution to crop in if you don't need the full 24mm, too.
Even that, for most jobs, would be overkill. Any 5D or 6D and the Sigma 12-24mm f/4 Art would do for most situations, or even a 90D (or M6mkII) and the 10-18/10-22 (or EF-M 11-22)... unless your clients expect you to turn in results within the hour, you'd have time to do the necessary digital corrections touch-ups. (And let's face it, other than the TS-Es, every Canon wide-angle lens requires software correction anyway, even the very best ones.)
Professional interior photography is the easiest (and cheapest) it's ever been, and probably now the easiest area of 9-to-5 professional photography work, thanks to how much can be done with software corrections. Getting good results is now more about how competent you are with compositing multiple shots (e.g. getting natural-looking HDR without going overboard) rather than having the most perfectly optically-corrected glass or the latest sensor.
|