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Best Body for Interior Photographer

  
 
Zenon Char
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p.3 #1 · p.3 #1 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


gdanmitchell wrote:
No, we didn't.

Our Portugal itinerary on this trip was largely influenced by the fact that we were meeting up with our youngest son and his wife, and they had already set an itinerary for the first part of the trip. (In fact, the entire trips arc was built around two such family meetings — the one in Spain and Portugal at the start in early July and a get-together with our "European family" for almost two weeks in Kosovo and Croatia in late August. So we started with those two fixed points and then filled in the rest of
...Show more

We have been on those light travel overhead baggage storage trips only. They are fun. Since we go for two months we bring the big bags. While there if we go on a short trip we buy small cheap bags for the overhead at a local store and chuck them out later. This of course does not include the photo gear bag.



Sep 12, 2023 at 11:14 AM
gdanmitchell
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p.3 #2 · p.3 #2 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


Zenon Char wrote:
We have been on those light travel overhead baggage storage trips only. They are fun. Since we go for two months we bring the big bags. While there if we go on a short trip we buy small cheap bags for the overhead at a local store and chuck them out later. This of course does not include the photo gear bag.


Traveling light is fun. It has its downsides, but for us the positives outweigh them. We can move around better with less stuff, and it is easier and quicker to hop on and off airlines, trains, taxis this way.

I used to travel heavier, but my wife persuaded me to rethink that. I'm now down to an Osprey 46L travel backpack plus a PD Sling shoulder bag. (I also toss in a tiny, super-light Osprey pack that stuffs down to smaller than the size of a baseball... in case I need some extra space.)

I completely change my camera equipment for this kind of travel, partly to keep things light and partly because it tends to be street/travel/urban photography, where small and quick gear works better for me. When going out I can fit what I need into a modest-sized PacSafe shoulder bag along with a few other non-photography things.

The recent trip was 10 weeks long and included stuff ranging from Venice (yes, in summer — whatever) to staying in homes with relatives in Germany and Kosovo. We've figured out how to make carry-on work even for a long and varied trip like this. (Hint, we're adept at doing "bathroom laundry" and at finding local laundromats — which can be good places to strike up conversations with locals and/or other travelers.)

After this recent trip I have a short list of more things to eliminate for an even smaller/lighter load, at least for warm-weather travel.

When I travel to do the landscape photography thing, there's no way I can keep things this small and light, but that's a different story.

Anyway, we're skewing far from the original subject of this thread...

Take care,

Dan



Sep 12, 2023 at 11:30 AM
OntheRez
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p.3 #3 · p.3 #3 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


This is probably heretical but, I've used an 80D with the EF 24-105 f/4 and an EF 70-200 f/4 for a lot of interior work. Wouldn't claim to be making stuff for Architectural Digest but reasonably well received at a lower professional level. I've found that the interiors of buildings really are just lines, squares, and circles. Yes light and shadow are also critical. The 80D snaps an excellent edge and handles shadow well. The interior/exterior shot (e.g., out a window) can be a bit challenging but can't imagine a camera that doesn't find this challenging.

This 80D is my 'toss in the back of the truck' rig. Tough, available, very reasonably priced. Something to consider.



Sep 13, 2023 at 09:34 AM
Uarctos
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p.3 #4 · p.3 #4 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


Europe has many houses/buildings with tiny rooms, places where 16mm on full frame is too much focal length.


Sep 13, 2023 at 01:57 PM
sebjmatthews
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p.3 #5 · p.3 #5 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


You want to be using the TS-E lenses (or third-party equivalents), which are all-manual anyway, so things like focus, MFA and IBIS are irrelevant. You'll be indoors, so sealing doesn't matter. To produce a finished photo with the right DR—cleanly—you'll need to composite a couple of exposures, so sensor tech doesn't really matter... in other words, as long as it has an EF mount (for simplicity), and it has enough MP to cover however the images will be viewed in the end, it doesn't really matter what body you go for.

If I were starting again today, from scratch, I'd get a 5DS (R or regular, doesn't really matter since you'll inevitably downsample the files anyway; I'd just get whichever I found the best deal on in good condition), pick up one of the TS-E 24s, and call it a day. Even the first-gen 24mm, or the Samyang/Rokinon version, are great optics at architecture/interior apertures like f/5.6-11. Plenty of resolution to crop in if you don't need the full 24mm, too.

Even that, for most jobs, would be overkill. Any 5D or 6D and the Sigma 12-24mm f/4 Art would do for most situations, or even a 90D (or M6mkII) and the 10-18/10-22 (or EF-M 11-22)... unless your clients expect you to turn in results within the hour, you'd have time to do the necessary digital corrections touch-ups. (And let's face it, other than the TS-Es, every Canon wide-angle lens requires software correction anyway, even the very best ones.)

Professional interior photography is the easiest (and cheapest) it's ever been, and probably now the easiest area of 9-to-5 professional photography work, thanks to how much can be done with software corrections. Getting good results is now more about how competent you are with compositing multiple shots (e.g. getting natural-looking HDR without going overboard) rather than having the most perfectly optically-corrected glass or the latest sensor.



Sep 13, 2023 at 04:19 PM
exdeejjjaaaa
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p.3 #6 · p.3 #6 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


sebjmatthews wrote:
You want to be using the TS-E lenses (or third-party equivalents), which are all-manual anyway, so things like ... and IBIS are irrelevant..


NO, IBIS -> MultiShot ( of course not like Canon's OOC JPG one) and there are applications where it is relevant ...




Sep 13, 2023 at 04:35 PM
sebjmatthews
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p.3 #7 · p.3 #7 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


The only in-camera automated system I'd ever use would be automated bracketed exposures, just to speed up the workflow by a few seconds, but that can easily be done manually, and with a TS-E you're certain to be working off a tripod anyway, so... nope, I stand by that IBIS is not a consideration for a scenario where you will, ideally, be using TS-E lenses.

Unless you're talking about some kind of functionality in other systems, in which case fair enough, there may be some use in some system somewhere, but this is the Canon forum and OP specifically asked for Canon recommendations. In Canon land, there's no IBIS-enabled functionality which benefits interior photography at a professional standard.



Sep 13, 2023 at 04:41 PM
tomasr
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p.3 #8 · p.3 #8 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


sebjmatthews wrote:
The only in-camera automated system I'd ever use would be automated bracketed exposures,.


Get ready for blown out windows if you trust the antiquated 30+ year old bracketing system. ML solved it a decade ago; can't believe Canon is still not taking it on board



Sep 19, 2023 at 03:21 PM
sebjmatthews
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p.3 #9 · p.3 #9 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


... You know you can specify what bracketing you want, right? You're not going to get anything "blown out" if you set it for -3 stops... not unless you're also fixing your camera at a DR-destroying ISO, anyway.

In any case, you'll notice that I actually said "[...] just to speed up the workflow by a few seconds, but that can easily be done manually," which should have tipped you off that I am not advocating it as the primary or in any way preferred method of shooting.



Sep 20, 2023 at 01:34 PM
Shaun Nyc
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p.3 #10 · p.3 #10 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


If you're doing flambiant like many other professionals you're usually at iso320-400 using a flash layer (s) window pulls etc. Many cameras can be used. I wouldn't recommend HDR bracketing.


Sep 29, 2023 at 07:38 AM
 


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gdanmitchell
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p.3 #11 · p.3 #11 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


Shaun Nyc wrote:
If you're doing flambiant...


flambiant?



Sep 29, 2023 at 09:00 AM
Peter Figen
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p.3 #12 · p.3 #12 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


gdanmitchell wrote:
flambiant?


A new one for me too. Turns out to be a ridiculously pretentious way of saying shooting ambient light with flash.




Sep 29, 2023 at 09:09 AM
gdanmitchell
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p.3 #13 · p.3 #13 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


Peter Figen wrote:
A new one for me too. Turns out to be a ridiculously pretentious way of saying shooting ambient light with flash.



"Doing flambient" sounds to me like overdosing on one of those strangely named drugs we see advertised — you know, the ones with names designed to be trademarked?

"I used to have problem with my dynamic range, but since I've been doing Flambient that has all ended!"

By, hey, it IS a lot sexier than saying, "use fill flash." Or "fillash."



Sep 29, 2023 at 11:22 AM
jcolwell
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p.3 #14 · p.3 #14 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


Peter Figen wrote:
A new one for me too. Turns out to be a ridiculously pretentious way of saying shooting ambient light with flash.


You could say, "flambient' is the flamboyant way of saying, "shooting ambient light with flash".



Sep 29, 2023 at 11:38 AM
Peter Figen
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p.3 #15 · p.3 #15 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


gdanmitchell wrote:
"Doing flambient" sounds to me like overdosing on one of those strangely named drugs we see advertised — you know, the ones with names designed to be trademarked?

"I used to have problem with my dynamic range, but since I've been doing Flambient that has all ended!"

By, hey, it IS a lot sexier than saying, "use fill flash." Or "fillash."


But they say that size doesn't matter.... who is they...




Sep 29, 2023 at 12:58 PM
Peter Figen
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p.3 #16 · p.3 #16 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


jcolwell wrote:
You could say, "flambient' is the flamboyant way of saying, "shooting ambient light with flash".


Yes, you could, and whoever came up with this deserves to spend eternity with the same person who came up with gliceé. Oh wait. Same person. It'll be a lonely eternity.




Sep 29, 2023 at 01:00 PM
jgoetz4
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p.3 #17 · p.3 #17 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


Zenon Char wrote:
A few lenses to go with that. RF 14-35 F4. The 15-35 is 2.8 but another $900. You don't need 2.8 with the modern NR software these days. Many years ago I shot real estate for a short time and I always stopped down for DOF.

The RF 16 2.8 is great piece of glass and inexpensive. Sharp lens.


The Canon Store has the 16 2.8 for $179, refurbished.
Jim



Sep 29, 2023 at 03:31 PM
sebjmatthews
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p.3 #18 · p.3 #18 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


Shaun Nyc wrote:
If you're doing flambiant like many other professionals you're usually at iso320-400 using a flash layer (s) window pulls etc. Many cameras can be used. I wouldn't recommend HDR bracketing.

Flash is a bugger if there's anything remotely shiny in the frame, which will be... well, always. Yes, you can shoot more frames without flash and laboriously mask in/out all the best bit... but 3-6 frames with a half stop or so between them can be merged seamlessly, with less effort and in less time, and look more natural. With most cameras made in the last decade, that can get you latitude of around 18-20EV, which is more than enough to account for even the most artificial of lighting contrasts; you'd have to have the sun not only shining through the window, but actually in the shot through the window, in order to run into problems. And at that point, no flash is going to balance it out anyway.

Don't make the mistake of thinking HDR bracketing automatically means the embossed neon effect every landscape photographer was using 15 years ago.

Not to mention, I've had to shoot interiors where flashes weren't allowed, so there's that. In fact there was even one time when continuous lights weren't allowed, even. It's not good to get into the habit of relying on something you may not always be able to use. Software is consistent and works effortlessly; there's no reason not to take advantage of it now. These aren't the days of having to bust out the compressor and airbrush to fix up a 6x7.



Sep 29, 2023 at 03:34 PM
Shaun Nyc
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p.3 #19 · p.3 #19 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


sebjmatthews wrote:
Flash is a bugger if there's anything remotely shiny in the frame, which will be... well, always. Yes, you can shoot more frames without flash and laboriously mask in/out all the best bit... but 3-6 frames with a half stop or so between them can be merged seamlessly, with less effort and in less time, and look more natural. With most cameras made in the last decade, that can get you latitude of around 18-20EV, which is more than enough to account for even the most artificial of lighting contrasts; you'd have to have the sun not only shining through
...Show more

The question was what camera for professional interior photography. So, I understood that as real estate photography. I can't say 100% the OP meant that but that was my guess. Rather than taking vacation photos at the Metropolitan Museum of Art where no flash is allowed. But obviously here it turns into what camera has most dynamic range, best high iso performance etc Sure, you can exposure bracket when in a pinch, still a good method for outdoors. But for interior color accuracy, windows, shadowing etc etc I would recommend picking up the flambiant way. Which is basically just masking some of the Ambiant layer back over flash layer(s) in PS. Very easy to remove flash reflections when they occur.

This is a basic beginner type video from Nathan cool about 6 yrs ago.



https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLaNrdFaOelhyLFnjYEJfdxBPBc4ay-xjo



Sep 30, 2023 at 07:53 AM
tomasr
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p.3 #20 · p.3 #20 · Best Body for Interior Photographer


Give it a go before commenting. It's not unusual to get to and past -20ev for full dynamic range. You simply aren't getting there with old bracketing rubbish unless you set a minimum of 5 or better 7 frames, but then you are just destroying your camera most of the time and still have no guarantee that you cover the highlights. No use of flash either with it.
I struggle to understand why brand fanboys so adamantly defend the brand that refuses to give a simple software upgrade to this day.

sebjmatthews wrote:
... You know you can specify what bracketing you want, right? You're not going to get anything "blown out" if you set it for -3 stops... not unless you're also fixing your camera at a DR-destroying ISO, anyway.

In any case, you'll notice that I actually said "[...] just to speed up the workflow by a few seconds, but that can easily be done manually," which should have tipped you off that I am not advocating it as the primary or in any way preferred method of shooting.




Sep 30, 2023 at 09:52 AM
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