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You aren't ever likely to get consistent exposure in TTL, no matter what lights or camera you use, for one simple reason.
It's not the fault of the lights. The problem with TTL is that it re-computes the camera settings for every shot, and it's working off the average light level of the whole shot. Repeat shots of the same image will be nearly identical, but add a white sweater or something and the average level will will be different in the following shots, so the shots will be darker in the camera. The camera re-computes the levels in the TTL shot to get you in the ballpark with your settings, but then switching to "Manual" and using the settings obtained from the TTL shot will get you repeat levels in your following shots, even if a slight change like "adding a white sweater" takes place. Minor changes in the average light level of the following similar shots will be repeatable. Change the scene significantly and you will usually need to start over with TTL being used for this next "first shot" to get the next scene settings that the camera wants for this next scene, etc. followed by copying these settings to manual mode to repeat the process.
Something else to try when deciding on manual camera settings is to put your digital camera in "Live View", and turn on the "Settings" so they display around the edge of the screen. You can then see what the camera sees and with the camera settings all displayed around the edge of the image you can make adjustments to get the best shot. Then, in "Manual" make changes for Shutter Speed, F-Stop, and ISO to get the settings that produce this best image on the screen. Also, watch the little ruler scale symbol with the pointer display. This is sort-of a built-in light meter. It shows what the camera thinks of your Manual Settings. If the pointer is left of center zero the photo to be taken will be too dark. If right of center zero the image taken will be too light. You may want the shot a little brighter or darker, but you can decide this yourself based on this and previous shots taken. In most cameras, a manual change to this calibration can re-zero this scale for how you want all of the following photos to be. From then on, when this scale is pointing at zero your shots will all be at that desired setting. At least it will help keep you from making "really bad shots". This doesn't work with flash though. Only in constant light in or outdoors, but with practice you will become familiar with what works and what doesn't with your camera settings in "Manual Mode".
Pay attention to the "focus Symbol(s) in the screen too. These are the locations that the camera is using for Focus Points to set the sharpest focus of the shot. You can choose these and their positions in the camera settings, and they will make a big difference if set based on what you are shooting. Make certain that at least one of these is over the subject's eyes or point that you want the "most in focus" of the shot to be. When you have many of these focus points, the camera will do a "best average" setting of them for the shot.
For flash photography, you are kind-of locked into a short range of shutter speeds, usually 1/200 or 1.250 second, depending on your camera. Too slow and there is no light left by the time that the shutter closes. Too fast and the higher shutter speed requires a slit formation that scans across the camera sensor, requiring many close together smaller flashes in succession to light the whole image in sequence to the shutter slit position for even lighting across the whole sensor.
Your best light level control in constant lighting is the shutter speed, but this doesn't work so well with flash photography. But you do have the ability to adjust the flash light levels and light positions, diffusers, etc. To get the needed light levels for your shots.
F-Stop settings of the camera also affect the camera light levels that it sees, but F-Stop settings have more affect on the depth-of-focus than camera light level control. Still, it has affect on the exposure levels, and sometimes can be a huge benefit. I try to run at F-6 to F-8 most of the time in the studio when using flash. Here, my setting is mostly to remove ambient room light from the shots so only the flash levels control the lights for the shots.
ISO camera settings are similar to the ISO of film days. It is a kind-of light sensitivity control, similar to the "Volume Knob" for audio level control of your record player. In film days, 100 ISO provided the best photos if the lighting was bright enough, but it was a film manufacturing setting, and you had to buy a roll of the correct ISO Setting if you wanted different. Since the whole roll was made at only one setting, this required shooting the whole roll before you could change the ISO setting. The higher the ISO number, the grainier the film. Yes, it was more sensitive to light, but the larger grain made the shots taken less sharp at higher ISO numbers.
This is still true with digital cameras, but photo quality does not deteriorate significantly until you reach nearer to the max capability of the light sensitivity of the camera, and this is getting better with new developments of camera chips. We can actually take acceptable photos in late evening light with no flash now. I can remember back in the film days of doing everything to avoid having to use 400 or higher ISO. Now we have cameras that can take good photos with ISO settings far beyond this, and they are acceptable up to one or two settings from the camera's maximum ISO capability.
Learn how to use what you have properly and you will save big money. Godox lights are every bit as powerful as bright as comparable models of Profoto.
Charley
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