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Archive 2022 · Northern lights gear

Bacalhau
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Northern lights gear

Going to Canada in January for northern lights viewing - 4 nights/5 days.
Clothing gear it's all set, and even bring some oversized zip lock bags to store the camera and lens in a somewhat cold entryway - the lodge will be very warm for sure.

The issue is about the lens choice:
Taking a R3 and wife 6Dmk2 - Olympus em1mk2 as backup

Lenses available:
1- RF 14-35mm f/4 (R3 only ofcourse)
2- EF 11-24mm f/4
3- EF 16-35mm f/4
4- Zeiss EF 15mm f/2.8
5- Rokinon EF 14mm f/2.8

I do have a 24-105, but it's a f/4 too and the 28mm f/1.4 way to heavy and even less wide

I don't think any f/4 will be an issue for the R3 but more concern with the 6D that might need a faster lens.

Either way, I plan to take only one lens for each camera ( the Oly might end with a 14-32 pancake, or maybe the 12-40 f2.8)

looking for feedback from anyone with experience shooting the lights with similar FLs and cameras if possible
Thanks

ps: any additional tips welcome too

Edited on Nov 21, 2022 at 11:56 AM · View previous versions

Nov 20, 2022 at 11:35 PM

Daniel Smith
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Northern lights gear

f/2 & f/2.8 will generally be better than the f/4 slower glass.

Get used to finding infinity focus and holding it. Taping the focus ring can help once you have it set

Turn off a many of the lights on the camera as possible - lights in your face/eyes interfere with night vision.

Be sure you are comfortable with manual settings for long exposures.

Shoot a lot, even more than you might expect - not easy to get back and no assurance you will see even better Aurora displays.

If it is a tour with experienced shooters - pay close attention and learn from their experience. It can only help with better image quality.

2 bodies - 2 tripods. Plenty of extra batteries. If out for a few hours a warming lens wrap can help keep ice formation on the front element of the lens. The hand warming packets attached can work wonders for this - on the lens and against the battery area as well.

Miller Mitts with fold over mittens will help with keeping fingers warm. Will enable camera operation without exposing all fingers to the cold. A lifesaver if the wind is blowing. Windproof mittens and especially the hat will go a long way to keeping you comfortable.

If you expect to stand outside in snow and ice check out Military Surplus "Bunny Boots". Great for keeping your feet warm - used a lot for ice fishing because they work.

Extra chapstick/lip balm. Skin dries fast in cold and wind.

Good luck - Auroras are a lot of fun. Try a few hand held long exposures and see how they go. Maybe even with one of the zoom lenses. Will give you something different and maybe even come up with some ethereal images you may like.

Nov 21, 2022 at 10:50 AM

Bacalhau
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Northern lights gear

Daniel Smith wrote:
f/2 & f/2.8 will generally be better than the f/4 slower glass.

Get used to finding infinity focus and holding it. Taping the focus ring can help once you have it set

Turn off a many of the lights on the camera as possible - lights in your face/eyes interfere with night vision.

Be sure you are comfortable with manual settings for long exposures.

Shoot a lot, even more than you might expect - not easy to get back and no assurance you will see even better Aurora displays.

If it is a tour with experienced shooters - pay close attention and learn from...Show more →

Thanks Daniel - awesome tips
- I made yet another typo with the Zeiss - it's a 2.8 not 2.0
Not a photo tour - just a lodge in the middle of nowhere that hosts guest all year-around, and 'famous' as AB viewing prime location
- I might be able to sneak a second tripod in my bag, but has to be light one - the main flight is not an issue, but weight allowance is lower for the final leg on a bush plane
My biggest concern are indeed the temperatures, as often they get -30F or lower - then storing the camera and lenses. Cannot leave them outside, neither really bringing them back to the room right away, and worse yet is figuring out how to keep them functional between warming up breaks - sure batteries out, but those temperatures exceed the mfr spec for functionality

Nov 21, 2022 at 11:36 AM

BDA7
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Northern lights gear

Fast glass is always better than slow. I have used the Canon 24-105 f4.0 with good results. I set the lens at f4.0 and the exposure time to what ever stops the star trails from showing up and use the ISO settings to control the exposure. I also use the histogram to help get the exposure correct. If you know your camera, and the best ISO, it works well.

I always use a tripod because of the exposure times.

Also, don't use any filters, UV, haze, or whatever you have on for protection, when you shoot. Long exposures with filters will result in Newton's Rings on your pictures. There is a long scientific explanation as to why it happens. The short answer is because of the way the light bounces between the layers of glass.

Brian

Nov 21, 2022 at 01:42 PM

BirdsAndStars
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Northern lights gear

+1 for mentioning Newtons Rings - I hadn't heard about that before and wouldn't have realized. Also to OP - where in Canada are you headed for the lights?

Nov 21, 2022 at 02:28 PM

Flowernut
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Northern lights gear

Probably two of the better lenses for this are the sigma 14-24 f2.8 and the tamron 15-30 f2.8. Speed is important as it will determine whether there is form to the northern lights or they are a blurred cloud. in my experience a zoom is what you want. the books on this go on and on about a fast prime lens but if you look at their pictures they are typically taken with a f2.8 16-35mm zoom for example. The zoom allows you to adjust the composition easily. No trying to change lenses in the cold, dark and snow. Might consider renting.
Focus I do with live view magnifying the image focusing on the brightest thing I can find. Tape in place works with fixed focal length but with zoom focus changes as you zoom.
A tripod is a must. if you plan to use two cameras, you need two tripods.

Edited on Nov 24, 2022 at 09:56 PM · View previous versions

Nov 21, 2022 at 02:29 PM

Bacalhau
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Northern lights gear

BirdsAndStars wrote:
+1 for mentioning Newtons Rings - I hadn't heard about that before and wouldn't have realized. Also to OP - where in Canada are you headed for the lights?

Blachford Lake Lodge- it is a half-hour bush-plane from the city of Yellowknife, the capital of Canada’s Northwest Territories.

Nov 21, 2022 at 02:58 PM

Bacalhau
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Northern lights gear

Flowernut wrote:
Probably two of the better lenses for this are the sigma 14-24 f2.8 and the tamron 15-30 f2.8. Speed is important as it will determine where there is form to the northern lights or they are a blurred cloud. in my experience a zoom is what you want. the books on this go on and on about a fast prime lens but if you look at their pictures they are typically taken with a f2.8 16-35mm zoom for example. The zoom allows you to adjust the composition easily. No trying to change lenses in the cold, dark and snow. Might...Show more →

- ends being three, but two on my own
well, not buying more lenses or renting, so we will have to use what we have - might bring the zeiss or the Rokinon along with a zoom.
it's a matter of staying below 40 pounds for checked luggage and 8 pounds personal bag - but we renting their winter gear clothing package, which saves on weight and bulk.

changed lenses in pitch black and even snowing conditions - yes, different care considerations and red beam headlamp helps, but always somewhat tricky

the 11mm will win for extra time allowance by 1/600 or 1/500 rule, but exposure to dark skies and stars is different ofcourse - not sure if the 16mm has indeed better iq at16mm@f/2.8 than the 11mm@f/4 (talking about comma mostly)
I recall reading that the tamron or the sigma were one of the favorites by night sky photographers ( not sure which)

Edited on Nov 21, 2022 at 03:18 PM · View previous versions

Nov 21, 2022 at 03:13 PM

Bacalhau
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · Northern lights gear

BDA7 wrote:
Fast glass is always better than slow. I have used the Canon 24-105 f4.0 with good results. I set the lens at f4.0 and the exposure time to what ever stops the star trails from showing up and use the ISO settings to control the exposure. I also use the histogram to help get the exposure correct. If you know your camera, and the best ISO, it works well.

I always use a tripod because of the exposure times.

Also, don't use any filters, UV, haze, or whatever you have on for protection, when you shoot. Long exposures with filters will result...Show more →
Thanks
Interesting about the rings:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton%27s_rings

nope, no filters, but the R3 adapter will have the clear filer on neverless, as other wise won't focus properly.....wonder if I should get a regular version adapter

Nov 21, 2022 at 03:17 PM

BDA7
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p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · Northern lights gear

Bacalhau wrote:
Thanks
Interesting about the rings:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton%27s_rings

nope, no filters, but the R3 adapter will have the clear filer on neverless, as other wise won't focus properly.....wonder if I should get a regular version adapter

I have never tried with an adapter, so I can't advise. Also, even when you can't see much with the naked eye the lights are still there. Your camera will see more than you will.

Nov 21, 2022 at 04:37 PM

Bacalhau
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p.1 #11 · p.1 #11 · Northern lights gear

BDA7 wrote:
I have never tried with an adapter, so I can't advise. Also, even when you can't see much with the naked eye the lights are still there. Your camera will see more than you will.

That's for sure - many times got shooting stars streaks that I never even realized while waiting for the timer
- but....believe or not the snow still is very well visible, and then there will be some trees or ridge silhouettes - it's pitch black, but more of way of saying things

Been to one of the darkest corners in the continental US - recognized dark sky with no light pollution , and yes, you don't see the ground.
OTOH in a 30 seconds exposure even a quick red light blink or lcd glow shows everywhere - positioning awareness of your photography partner is a must

Focus prep happens before full darkness, and it's weird that with some lenses the infinity mark is actually too far out - a smidge in it's better sometimes, but has to be tested for each lens

Nov 21, 2022 at 05:10 PM

Bacalhau
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p.1 #12 · p.1 #12 · Northern lights gear

Questions to cold weather photographers:

- leave the camera with lens mounted out for 30 minutes while taking a warm-up break - battery out ofcourse - should I cover it with a puffy jacket or just leave it out?

- bringing the camera in: I never experienced anything below 20F or so doing photography, and then I was in a tent, meaning that nothing really got warm, unless inside the sleeping bag.
I ended not using the large zip lock bag I had, but what are indeed the better steps/timing in between zones with extreme low temperatures - not sure if I will have a buffer area - entryway to remove snow gears slightly sheltered or indoor not warmed up area, but in either case, likely the nights will drop to -20/-30F
will it be ok to just seal the camera and lens inside the zip bag and bring into the warm lodge?

Thanks

Nov 21, 2022 at 05:32 PM

Bill Gass
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p.1 #13 · p.1 #13 · Northern lights gear

Maybe bring some moisture remover bags.
Maybe bring me

Nov 21, 2022 at 06:04 PM

Bacalhau
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p.1 #14 · p.1 #14 · Northern lights gear

Bill Gass wrote:
Maybe bring some moisture remover bags.
Maybe bring me

Can't wait to see your pictures, hope they turn out well.
Neat country up there, been wanting to go up there for a long time and to Great Bear Lake also.
A pretty big diamond mine up there as well.
It's gonna be COLD up there but you already know that.

the disicant bags are not a bad idea actually; all the condensation will happen inside the lodge - outside will just crystalize...
- not calling you fat but surely you are to be above the 40 pounds limit

I will try - got 4 chances to get it right.
First time of many things, so even if the camera becomes an ice block, I should have some memories.
Thanks

Nov 21, 2022 at 06:25 PM

Bill Gass
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p.1 #15 · p.1 #15 · Northern lights gear

With winter coming I am fattening up pretty good so I guess I'm out...

If you have never been up to an area like this you are in for quite the surprise scenery wise, should be breath taking. ( with the bitter cold, don't breath too much, you might freeze yourself ) Wonder if you will see any wild animals at all.
Get those pixs loaded up right away off your flash/sd card and on a laptop or something...

Nov 21, 2022 at 06:49 PM

Bacalhau
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p.1 #16 · p.1 #16 · Northern lights gear

Bill Gass wrote:
With winter coming I am fattening up pretty good so I guess I'm out...

planing on on sd card per night - CF card if I dare to make a movie. laptop will add extra weight and wifi it's free up to 250mb/day (lol) - Rather carry more batteries and ofcourse a charger

Nov 21, 2022 at 07:10 PM

GroovyGeek
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p.1 #17 · p.1 #17 · Northern lights gear

Pretend that you are TB12 and buy and use one of these

https://a.co/d/8N1AQly

Thank me when your buddy's fingertips crack from frostbite and yours don't 🙂

Nov 21, 2022 at 11:46 PM

Frogfish
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p.1 #18 · p.1 #18 · Northern lights gear

If you are coming in for 30 mins warm up breaks - bring the batteries not the cameras/lenses as even storing them in plastic bags and using large desiccant bags (heavy BTW) you chance getting condensation inside the lenses or on the sensor (and you don't have much time for them to warm up / cool down when moving indoors/outdoors) then you are f$%^d until it clears.

You can buy cheap lens warmers (I think ca. $20 each?) buy three (one for each setup - you can always sell them when you return). These should prevent your lenses/cameras from freezing solid. You'll find out in the first night !

When coming in for the night have large sealed plastic bags for your lenses and cameras with said desiccant bags (remove the SD cards and keep them in your pocket until they have warmed up, if you want to check what you have shot on a laptop).

The above generally worked for me at temps from -30C down to -50C. The cameras didn't freeze but the LCD will quickly stop working - and hold your breath when looking through the optical VF (and when close to the LCD until it stops) - otherwise your breath will condense and you won't see a thing !

Nov 22, 2022 at 12:21 AM

Bacalhau
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p.1 #19 · p.1 #19 · Northern lights gear

GroovyGeek wrote:
Pretend that you are TB12 and buy and use one of these

https://a.co/d/8N1AQly

Thank me when your buddy's fingertips crack from frostbite and yours don't 🙂

Hi GG - could please check that link? or if you want just pm the name/item. Might be my phone, but link says invalid

Nov 22, 2022 at 12:31 AM

Bacalhau
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p.1 #20 · p.1 #20 · Northern lights gear

Frogfish wrote:
If you are coming in for 30 mins warm up breaks - bring the batteries not the cameras/lenses as even storing them in plastic bags and using large desiccant bags (heavy BTW) you chance getting condensation inside the lenses or on the sensor (and you don't have much time for them to warm up / cool down when moving indoors/outdoors) then you are f$%^d until it clears.

You can buy cheap lens warmers (I think ca. $20 each?) buy three (one for each setup - you can always sell them when you return). These should prevent your lenses/cameras from freezing solid....Show more →

Thanks for the tips Frogfish
Had not considered the lens warmers - heck nor even knew such thing existed.
Already stockpiling disiccants 👍
The lcd is indeed an issue I am aware and afraid of. I guess the evf is not much of an issue? my cameras are both ml, but wife's still a DSLR.
Worthy to wrap the cameras a bit with something warm, or just a waste of time?
- found this on b&h article:
Camera Duck Standard All Weather Cover without Warmer Pack (Black)
not bringing laptop, but I can use an otg cable with reader on my tablet

Nov 22, 2022 at 12:43 AM

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