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Postprocessing: Masking, etc

  
 
Imagemaster
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p.2 #1 · p.2 #1 · Postprocessing: Masking, etc


Tom Reynolds wrote:
Tony,
True but I am simply focusing on the issues that come from a f/6.3 lens on a 2.0 crop camera.
Tom


True, but are still the same issues that apply to a plethora of other camera/lens combos.

Will remove this version if you wish.

Tony







Nov 23, 2022 at 11:55 AM
Tom Reynolds
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p.2 #2 · p.2 #2 · Postprocessing: Masking, etc


Tony,
What process did you use?
Tom



Nov 23, 2022 at 12:15 PM
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p.2 #3 · p.2 #3 · Postprocessing: Masking, etc


A combo of Photoshop and DeNoise AI.

Lower right corner altered with Content Aware Fill and cloning tool.

Background only with DeNoise AI set at Severe Noise.



Nov 23, 2022 at 01:36 PM
Tom Reynolds
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p.2 #4 · p.2 #4 · Postprocessing: Masking, etc


Tony,
Thanks, I did that to my .PSD file I am actually working on. I am still reviewing the ON1 training on how to:
1-Select only the background. (This is easy.)
2-Place a gradient mask only on the background
3-Blur and otherwise process the background to get a "smaller DOF" look.

Regards,
Tom



Nov 23, 2022 at 01:58 PM
visualpauses
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p.2 #5 · p.2 #5 · Postprocessing: Masking, etc


Tom, as a bird-image, the first image is aesthetically pleasant, I would mainly use a mask to just fix the noise in the BG using any tool.
If the goal is to achieve the look of fine-art with a blurred BG or replaced BG, then Photoshop is your best friend, with any plugin such as DXO, On1 or Topaz.

The second image is again pretty, and the leaves may be a distraction, but that's the bird's "habitat" so merely taking down the highlights and brightness of the leaves using a mask could suffice for a "bird photo".
The second image is challenging if one wants the fine-art look though.

Thank you for posting here, as this PP discussion is relevant to those interested in the Oly 100-400 for bird photos. Seeing the challenges and suggested fixes can help others decide which software works better with this lens and body.



Nov 26, 2022 at 12:12 AM
Tom Reynolds
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p.2 #6 · p.2 #6 · Postprocessing: Masking, etc


I am learning what these guys in the training course call "local Processing". Instead of processing the entire image, you mask off what you want to work on.

In terms of getting a bird image, my OM-1/100-400 is a good as it gets-small, light, good reach, quick focus, accurate subject ID and tracking. Where it fails is the depth-of-field is large by Full-frame cameras with large aperture lenses standards. (I call this the 600f4 crowd.)

Another problem that I have is that I am unable to get down on the ground to take a shot so I often can't get the shot at the level of the bird, thus creating a closer background. The tricolor heron is an example although it was shot from a boardwalk. Getting down to the bird's level was not possible.

I am trying to learn to use this "local Processing" think to overcome these limitations.

I'll keep everyone posted.

Tom




Nov 26, 2022 at 12:53 AM
newhaven
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p.2 #7 · p.2 #7 · Postprocessing: Masking, etc


I used tilt-shift from the blur gallery in photoshop. But first, the bird must be removed from the background using content aware fill.





I followed this video:




Nov 26, 2022 at 01:23 PM
 


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Tom Reynolds
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p.2 #8 · p.2 #8 · Postprocessing: Masking, etc


Nice job. Your mod is more like a 600f4 would produce.

Tom



Nov 26, 2022 at 02:03 PM
newhaven
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p.2 #9 · p.2 #9 · Postprocessing: Masking, etc


In Photoshop, you can also try Neural Filters... > Depth Blur


Nov 26, 2022 at 02:07 PM
Tom Reynolds
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p.2 #10 · p.2 #10 · Postprocessing: Masking, etc


I have Photoshop and will follow the tutorial posted. I'll also try depth blur.

However, if I can figure out how to do this in ON1 it will be faster because ON1 has better tools to clean up the mask. If I can work it out comparing the results will be interesting.

Tom



Nov 26, 2022 at 02:27 PM
doady
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p.2 #11 · p.2 #11 · Postprocessing: Masking, etc


Instead of blurring the background locally, I prefer to do local sharpening on the subject, including a little bit texture/structure.

For global texture/structure, I always use a layer with a filled mask across the entire photo, and then I exclude the darkest areas and the brightest areas of the mask with a specific luminosity range (e.g. 10 to 235). This will allow the brightest areas of the image including the sky to retain their blur and even have a certain glow if combined with negative clarity. At the same time, the details and noise in shadows will not be emphasized. Luminosity range also prevents clipping of highlights and shadows.

For landscape/nature photos, I like to do slight negative clarity globally (e.g. -5) and then do stronger negative clarity (-20) locally with a gradient, the strongest negative clarity at the top of the photo, the weakest at the bottom of the photo. The brightest areas and the background both tend to be at the top of the photo, so the negative clarity at the top helps to accentuate that glow while emphasizing the foreground and the subject. It's a natural and subtle effect, especially when combined with positive texture/structure.



Nov 26, 2022 at 04:04 PM
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p.2 #12 · p.2 #12 · Postprocessing: Masking, etc


How to remove distracting background BEFORE taking the photo.







Nov 26, 2022 at 07:51 PM
PV Hiker
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p.2 #13 · p.2 #13 · Postprocessing: Masking, etc


"The Cone Of Shame"

Poor doggie......



Nov 26, 2022 at 10:28 PM
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