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Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65

  
 
rollsman4
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


Any pros and cons with my question.
I donít know if the zoom is going to be that much heavier to shoot handheld. Using
Gfx 50s 2. Thank you.
I shoot mainly family groups and portraits.
I donít want to be tied down to a tripod.



Jun 07, 2022 at 12:54 PM
nazdravanul
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


The primes are lighter, more pleasant to shoot with and with better IQ than the zoom (I know, the 32-64 fanatics will crucify me for this - I'll restate here: 3 copies of that zoom were not good enough, for me).
For me, the primes would be a no brainer.



Jun 07, 2022 at 02:39 PM
Jesse Evans
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


The 32-64 weighs about the same or less than most 24-70 f/2.8 lenses, it is completely hand holdable.

Do you need focal lengths between 30 and 65? If yes, get the zoom. If no, who cares? Group shots and portraits arenít exactly situations in which you have to rapidly change focal lengths and should be fine environments for using primes.

I very much doubt any ďthis copy wasnít good enough for meĒ will impact your family group shots and portraits.



Jun 07, 2022 at 02:47 PM
rollsman4
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


Thank you for sharing that. I happen to Like Primes Better than zooms anyway. Thanks Dennis


Jun 07, 2022 at 02:50 PM
liggy
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


My #1 lens used by far is the 32-64. Sold the 45 and 63. Donít miss them.
Recently re-acquired the 50 for casual use.



Jun 07, 2022 at 03:23 PM
Makten
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


Keep the primes and get the 35-70.


Jun 07, 2022 at 03:39 PM
bobby350z
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


I liked my 32-64mm, when I had it. Feel bad for selling it.


Jun 07, 2022 at 03:57 PM
Peter Figen
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


I dunno. My 32-64 is one freaking razor of a lens. One of the best zooms I've ever used. Can't imagine how it could get any sharper.


Jun 07, 2022 at 07:20 PM
bobby350z
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


Peter Figen wrote:
I dunno. My 32-64 is one freaking razor of a lens. One of the best zooms I've ever used. Can't imagine how it could get any sharper.


I agree. That's why I feel bad as people said how much better 45-100 is. It is just the same IMHO.



Jun 07, 2022 at 09:20 PM
 


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leonasj
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p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


bobby350z wrote:
I agree. That's why I feel bad as people said how much better 45-100 is. It is just the same IMHO.


does sigma art 135mm 1.8 full cover gfx sensor/ no vigneting,no black corners and no smearing?



Jun 08, 2022 at 12:15 PM
bobby350z
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p.1 #11 · p.1 #11 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


leonasj wrote:
does sigma art 135mm 1.8 full cover gfx sensor/ no vigneting,no black corners and no smearing?


Well I don't look for vignetting at f1.8. I bet even GFX native lens has some vignetting. If really worried make a LCC profile in C1. I have not done it.



Jun 08, 2022 at 10:40 PM
Peter Figen
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p.1 #12 · p.1 #12 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


leonasj wrote:
does sigma art 135mm 1.8 full cover gfx sensor/ no vigneting,no black corners and no smearing?


Hard to imagine a better lens. I have the Sigma and it fully covers the GFX and is sharp all the way to the corners wide open. If there is any vignetting it would be worse wide open but I have not noticed anything that would be either noticeable or objectionable. Even with the lens shade on.




Jun 08, 2022 at 10:52 PM
Sauseschritt
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p.1 #13 · p.1 #13 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


Just for the record, there is no GF 65mm (yet). OP probably means GF 63mm, which is the 50mm ff equiv.



Jun 09, 2022 at 03:52 AM
leonasj
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p.1 #14 · p.1 #14 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


Peter Figen wrote:
Hard to imagine a better lens. I have the Sigma and it fully covers the GFX and is sharp all the way to the corners wide open. If there is any vignetting it would be worse wide open but I have not noticed anything that would be either noticeable or objectionable. Even with the lens shade on.



lenstip web shows sigma art135 has -1.56EV vigneting wide open on ff sensor. so on gfx will be more/ or fringer adapters profiles remove it on jpeg pictures?



Jun 09, 2022 at 07:34 AM
Peter Figen
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p.1 #15 · p.1 #15 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


leonasj wrote:
lenstip web shows sigma art135 has -1.56EV vigneting wide open on ff sensor. so on gfx will be more/ or fringer adapters profiles remove it on jpeg pictures?


All too often these testing sites have very little relevance to real world photography and you can get hung up on a set of numbers before actually looking at real images. Go out and git yourself one of these lenses and you won't care if it vignettes a bit wide open. In fact that is something I'd look at as a feature because in most cases it's going to make your images look better. I mean, you do add vignetting to your images in post, right? I know that in almost every case I'm going to be adding either subtle or not so subtle vignetting to add to the drama of the image and to help emphasize or de-emphasize areas of the composition. You're worrying about the wrong thing.




Jun 09, 2022 at 08:51 AM
molson
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p.1 #16 · p.1 #16 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


Peter Figen wrote:
All too often these testing sites have very little relevance to real world photography and you can get hung up on a set of numbers before actually looking at real images.



Truer words were never spoken...



Jun 09, 2022 at 09:15 AM
bobby350z
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p.1 #17 · p.1 #17 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


leonasj wrote:
lenstip web shows sigma art135 has -1.56EV vigneting wide open on ff sensor. so on gfx will be more/ or fringer adapters profiles remove it on jpeg pictures?


Want to shoot test charts or actual pictures, simple. Peter already explained the reasoning.



Jun 09, 2022 at 09:36 AM
Peter Figen
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p.1 #18 · p.1 #18 · Gf 32-64 or stay with my gf 30 and gf 65


bobby350z wrote:
Want to shoot test charts or actual pictures, simple. Peter already explained the reasoning.


When I start trying out a new lens I don't shoot test charts even though I've got a giant, maybe fifteen foot wide test chart on one wall in my studio, I generally go outside the studio and shoot a variety of things that give me an idea of how the lens performs in different parts of the frame, how it performs close up with out of focus areas in the background to see how that looks at different apertures and maybe down the back alleyway with the cars and buildings. I want to get an idea of how the lens performs under a variety of circumstances so I'll know if it's the right tool for whatever my current image might be.

One example might be the absolutely wonderful Canon 35mm f/1.4 II, when used on the 100s, is almost useless at infinity with major non correctable hard vignetting - not the good type - but as soon as you move closer than ten feet or so, the vignetting mostly goes away (it's still there but now it's the good stuff) and it becomes just a killer lens for environmental portraiture that is so usable wide open that it's scary. Would never shoot a traditional landscape with that lens but for a specific use like I mentioned it becomes an unbeatable tool.

It's kinda the same with that fast Sigma 135. If you're shooting a portrait with it close to wide open, inside or out, the natural vignetting is probably going to make your image that much more compelling without having to do so much work on the image later, if at all. If you need less falloff, you shoot stopped down or you choose a different club out of your golf bag. You grab your Canon 135 t/s-e which has almost no falloff when used unshifted. The point is, is to know the characteristics of whatever lens you're using so you know what to expect and (hopefully) can exploit those properties to the maximum benefit in fulfilling your vision, whatever that may be. It's all about knowing your equipment and using it enough so it all becomes second nature.

Early in my long career, I didn't think as much about the specifics of certain lenses, and since we didn't have tool like Photoshop, you had you light your images to overcome the shortcomings of the lens, or find natural lighting that played up the strong points of a lens. It wasn't as if this was something I gave much thought about, only that, as you were shooting the Polaroids leading up to the final image on film, you would keep making adjustments to your setup until you were satisfied with the image, and, if you're Polaroids look great, your film was only going to look better. Today we have a more immediate and far more accurate feedback system but a lot less mystery.




Jun 09, 2022 at 10:18 AM







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