AGeoJO
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dyrgutt wrote:
Thanks a lot @AGeoJO@ - i'm about half way through that thread, but something that pricked my interest by @iamso78@ (which is essentially the same thing I've discovered) -- is that if I hold down the AF button, my combo will hunt backwards and forwards like a piston forever and a day without locking, but if I press the af in short bursts--essentially 2-3 presses holding on a subject--it will achieve focus, and from there I can hold the af down and the green points will dance around the screen without it hunting. I've found I have to wait for the lenses IS to standby before doing this i.e. if I have tried to achieve focus by holding af down and it pistons backwards and forwards, then do the short press technique, it rarely works if at all; the short press technique has to be from when the lens is in standby. Please note: when I do this, I can achieve focus 99% of the time in excellent to terrible lighting. I'm hoping when I go outdoors and real world test it in bright light, holding af down may yield better results (I've been stuck in doors with terrible weather). Also, are there some fundamental settings you've found that need to be disabled? The same person advised: AWB off, turning off Set. Face Prty. -- any others? Thanks for your response and any further suggestions as I continue to read that thread. Cheers Peter...Show more →
Peter,
Back then in the old "C" days, we used to do the so-called "AF pumping", meaning you press the AF button repeatedly and rapidly to get the camera refocus again and again. In my experience, the "Zone-AF" mode in Sony will grab focus on the closest and most contrasty targets and sometimes not on the target we want them to focus on. By pumping while tracking, you may get the first images not in focus but since you re-activate the AF of the camera to zero in on your target, you may end up getting perfectly focus targets towards the end of the sequence. That's what I am doing now and yes, that's the same method you are doing, too, in other words.
I heard that if you turn off IBIS, the AF performance will improve. It is based on the logic that the AF processing system will get more power or the power is less restricted since it will not be impeded by the IBIS. I couldn't tell the difference after a brief evaluation. So, I know that IBIS helps me getting more keepers if I handhold my gear. So, I leave that on and leave all other settings they way they are.
dyrgutt wrote:
Even though its rainy and dodgy lighting - I took her outside and achieved some more promising results; focus achieved, a lot  ...but not where I wanted it a lot of the time, ha! I think it comes down to learning the limitations of a new system, one of which, is fine pin-point accuracy that I could achieve easily on the canon--i'm not sure how i'll go with that--but i'm hoping well?! I'm still interested in recommended settings, however, other than Continuous / Zone and AF sensitivity setting to 2? Thanks again, Peter
Peter,
My AF sensitivity is set to "1"; AF-C and either Zone-AF or Center-AF without tracking. But keep in mind, I am using a Dot Sight for tracking. In other words, I am not looking through the viewfinder but using my dominant (right) eye to track the target through that device. For perched birds, then yes, I look, focus compose, etc. through the viewfinder and I can see/evaluate what is in focus and what is not and I can make the adjustment based on what I see.
Good luck,
Joshua
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