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p.2 #8 · p.2 #8 · Adapter for old Canon EF 300mm f:2.8L NON IS to E-M1? | |
I know there are some who are interested in this and I should have updated this thread sooner but didn’t get around to it. However, there are a few things to point out.
Conclusions:
First of all, this can be a bit hit or miss. I was lucky and my little setup works well but not everyone will have the same experience as me. Small sensors are very hard on glass and Not all lens/body combinations will look as good as this one does. There are people who have put medium and even large format lenses on mirrorless bodies - God knows why - and been disappointed with the results.
I have never tried this with a zoom, so if you’re planning to use say a 70-200, you may get inconsistent results. Obviously this is only really useful for longer lenses and wide angles are probably a waste of time.
IMHO, any lens with a focus limiter switch will be better than one without it.
Secondly, the Metabones adapter I’m using is no longer made and is becoming harder to get. There are alternatives like Viltrox but I have no experience of them. Since these things are just an adapter with contacts, I don’t see that there would be a lot of difference. Also, the Metabones adapters are becoming very expensive. I suspect the newer ones are designed to match the IS in the body with that of the lens, using an internal chip. I haven’t got IS in my lens so it makes no difference to me. I just tracked down an old model on eBay but even that can be a rude shock.
Thirdly, there are limits on what you can do with this. I am using an original, Gen 1 E-M1 and the AF is not the best. Because this is not an Olympus lens, I can only use the centre focus point. I have tried the others but they don’t work. Perhaps on one of the newer adapters I might be able to use other parts of the screen but not on this one. I also tried AF tracking mode but it was unsuccessful. In fact, it was pretty dreadful but I will try on something with more contrast at some point and see if it’s any better but I don’t hold much hope. I’m still trying to establish whether or not the body is limited to 4 fps with this lens or whether this was operator error on my part.
*EDIT I just checked: it wasn’t operator error.
Next, you read comments about the AF being slower. I think this is entirely subjective. Sure, the AF in a lightweight lens like the 40-150 ‘plastic fantastic’ is fast because the elements are easier to move than in a big lens like this. But this lens focuses fast enough that it isn’t a problem and the only limitation I have is the AF in the body. I expect an OM-1 will be a lot better at acquiring the subject.
Finally, the Olympus AF adjustment system is very good and reasonably easy to use. All is does is create a lens file and AFAIK, it only works for that lens. I will give a general description at the end of how I did it.
I have two projects in the wings at the moment: shoot some surfing with it and do some astrophotography with this lens. That will most probably be done with an E-P5 body because the AF will not be required and the E-P5 has huge weight advantages for an equatorial mount.
This combination isn’t really suitable for most sports - certainly nowhere near what I can do with a Sony A7 III and an FE 200-600 G OSS - but I’m still experimenting with it. The lack of really decent AF tracking is a bit of a handicap here. But anyone considering doing it with a similar lens, like a 300mm f/4 or 400mm f/5.6 could end up very happy with the results. I actually think this lens works better than it ever did on any of the Canon bodies I owned, which is more than a bit surprising but the results speak for themselves.
It doesn't track as well but the pictures look better.
The sequence for adjusting the AF is as follows:
Custom Menu > Utility > OK > AF Focus Adj. > right arrow > Lens Data > right arrow > Create Lens Data Set > right arrow > OK > scroll up or down to suit. I recommend using increments of +/- 2.
Hit OK and OK again and make sure AF Focus Adj. is set to Lens Data. In my case the Lens Data file is called ‘1 300 F2.8’. Make sure it has a tick next to it and use the left arrow to back out to the main menu.
There are 37 focus points but you probably only need to set the centre one, so if you get a bit lost and find yourself in that part of the menu, just do that.
Edited on Jan 14, 2023 at 07:41 PM · View previous versions
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