Jman13
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 p.35 #6 · p.35 #6 · Pre-order Now: Tamron 17-28mm f/2.8 Di III RXD ($899) | |
Davidw25 wrote:
That’s super helpful. I shot one at 14 and it seemed really soft in the background. I focused on the foreground which was super close to me ~2ft. I really need to get out and mess with different scenarios.
Sometimes you won't get enough depth of field, if your foreground is super close. In general, you want to focus about 1/3 of the way into your scene to maximize front to back depth of field. However, if you have really close detail, that still won't be enough to get from front to back, in which case, focus stacking comes into play. (You can search for some tutorials on focus stacking, and it's reasonably easy to do in photoshop).
For instance, this shot below was taken with your lens (and by your lens, of course, I mean the exact lens you hold in your hands, since it used to be mine  ), with the ice in the closest parts of the foreground only about 7 inches from the front of the lens. The resulting shot is a result of 5 images, taken at various focus points from very near to far, and stacked in order to get everything in focus.
http://jordansteele.com/2020/cbus_ice_sunrise.jpg
Of course, that's an extreme example. In most situations, focusing about 1/3 of the way into the scene and shooting between f/8 and f/16 (depending on how much near detail you have) will get things good enough. You'll get a feel for it over time.
A depth of field calculator will help. For instance, if you were shooting at 17mm and f/14, with a focus point that was 2 feet away, the shot would be acceptably sharp from about 1 foot to 15 feet, and everything outside that zone would be out of focus. Note, that this will be for typical viewing of images...at 100% on an A7R III like you have, things at the limits of the depth of field may not look quite as sharp as those deeper into the plane of focus.
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It IS an ultrawide zoom. 