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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Fun with a Canon FD 35mm f/2.8 TS tilt-shift lens on APS-C | |
But wait, there’s more! The ability to shift cleanly to 10mm opens up some interesting possibilities. Shift lenses are an easy way to create panoramas. The technique is called “flat stitching”. With this lens and a Fuji X or Sony NEX camera you can quickly and easily create a 54MP file with finished dimensions of around 6000 x 9000 pixels and a field of view equivalent to what a 24mm lens would see. (Don’t get too excited though: all you get is the field of view; you don’t magically get the properties of a 24mm lens!)
* To make a 54MP portrait-orientation final image, set up the camera in landscape orientation on the tripod, shoot the centre image, shift down (fall) 10mm to shoot the bottom image, and then rise 10mm to shoot the top image.
* To create a 54MP landscape-orientation final image, put the camera in portrait orientation, shoot the centre image, shift left 10mm to shoot left of centre, and then shift right 10mm to shoot right of centre.
Some technical notes:
* This kind of panorama can be shot using only the lens and a straight adapter. The image will be centred within the image circle. If you need to shift the whole assemblage (e.g., to correct verticals), you can do it if you also have a shift adapter.
* If you’re shooting a subject that is parallels to the lens plane (e.g., a building) then I recommend re-focusing the shifted images to deal with the slight field curvature (as explained above).
* You have to set exposure manually when making panoramas, and you need to watch out for movement in areas that will be stitched. There’s lots of useful advice on the Internet for how to make panoramas.
* Because there’s around 20% overlap, Lightroom usually has no trouble stitching the three images together. But, it can’t handle uniform subjects well, e.g., if you tried this with a “brick wall” shot it wouldn’t work in Lightroom because Lightroom doesn’t see enough differences among the three shots; you’d have to use one of the many other stitching programs that allows you to set manual control points.
* To avoid parallax errors, it’s technically best to fix the position of the lens and move the senor within the image circle. Alternatively, you can shift the lens in one direction, and shift the sensor the corresponding amount in the other direction. For example, I could do this on my Fuji by shifting 10mm left with the lens, and then sliding the whole camera body 10mm to the right in the tripod mount. With the exception of close-focusing, Lightroom deals with minor parallax errors just fine when flat stitching, so I don’t bother shifting the senor.
Edited on Aug 12, 2017 at 09:17 PM · View previous versions
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