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Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

gdanmitchell
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p.25 #1 · p.25 #1 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

rsk7 wrote:
Any idea what is causing this? Anything I can do to reduce the affect?

Two other possibilities come to mind, too. One is related to the choice of a relatively small aperture, the distance to the subject, and the possibility of atmospheric distortions.

The other... well, I'll see if anyone else suggests it.

Dan

Jan 22, 2019 at 02:41 PM

rsk7
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p.25 #2 · p.25 #2 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

Processed with CaptureOne 12.

When I zero out sharpening amount ( clarity and structure were not applied) I can still see the rings.. just less distinctly.

Distance was around 1 mile, temp was around 40 f and humidity was high with fog forming but lightly.

Jan 22, 2019 at 03:00 PM

suteetat
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p.25 #3 · p.25 #3 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

molson wrote:
The GF 250mm f4 is just as sharp at closer distances, but accurate focusing is critical because the the depth of field is so shallow.

I think you are right. I looked through a whole bunch more pictuers I took of a pigeon chick I found on my balcony taken pretty much at minimum focusing distance. Lighting was not the best but I took this on a tripod with 2s delay.

test by Suteetat S, on Flickr

Both were 100% crops on the chick where it is the sharpest. Majority of pictures were like the picture on the right.
But may be 1 in 10 pictures were like the picture on the left. Mind you, the camera was stationary on tripod and
focus point was the same. I just fired off a whole bunch of pictures in a row in AF-S single mode, small single point focus.

In comparison to Z7/70-200/2.8, focus was much more consistant and the sharpness was consistantly in the middle, better than the one of the right but not quite as good as one of the left. I would have thought that CDAF is slow but once focus is achieved, it should nail it pretty much every time.
Result was the same pretty much at all F stop that I tried between F4 and F8 (meaning that once in awhile, GFX would nail the focus).

Here is the whole picture of the one that I got the best focus on.

GFX57335 by Suteetat S, on Flickr
Shutterspeed is rather low so I thought that may be it was motion artifact as well but at similar shutterspeed on Z7, there was a lot less variation on sharpness that I got as well and the chick was not exactly moving much either.

Jan 22, 2019 at 05:13 PM

k-h.a.w
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p.25 #4 · p.25 #4 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

suteetat wrote:
I think you are right. I looked through a whole bunch more pictuers I took of a pigeon chick I found on my balcony taken pretty much at minimum focusing distance. Lighting was not the best but I took this on a tripod with 2s delay.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4820/39878211073_3d9e5f1af7_o.jpg test by Suteetat S, on Flickr

Both were 100% crops on the chick where it is the sharpest. Majority of pictures were like the picture on the right.
But may be 1 in 10 pictures were like the picture on the left. Mind you, the camera was stationary on tripod and
focus point was the same. I just...Show more →

I don't find your results surprising at all.
However, they seem more related to the cameras used, and not the GF250 lens.
A small focus point can shift easily whenever you touch the camera, no?
Which shutter did you use?

K-H.

Jan 23, 2019 at 04:20 AM

suteetat
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p.25 #5 · p.25 #5 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

k-h.a.w wrote:
I don't find your results surprising at all.
However, they seem more related to the cameras used, and not the GF250 lens.
A small focus point can shift easily whenever you touch the camera, no?
Which shutter did you use?

K-H.

No, I agree that it has nothing to do with GF250. Initially since most of the pictures were consistantly not quite as good as I expect so I thought it might be the lens but now that I found a few pictures that is really much better, I guess it is down to
my technique

Surprisingly though as I did pretty much the same thing, EFCS, 2s shutter delay, tripod, single point focus,
hit rate on Z7 is pretty much 100% where as I only managed to get about 1/10 for GFX combination. Granted that Z7 combination is lighter but ball head and tripod is rated much higher so that should not be an issue.

Jan 23, 2019 at 05:16 AM

rsk7
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p.25 #6 · p.25 #6 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

suteetat wrote:
....
Surprisingly though as I did pretty much the same thing, EFCS, 2s shutter delay, tripod, ....

I have heard that with a longer heavier lens you should use the 10s shutter delay as it can take longer than 2 seconds for the vibrations to dissipate.

That said, to me it looks like in the oof image that the focus has shifted further back as some of those feathers in the elbow(?) seem sharp.

I'm also wondering ( I don't have the lens ) if the autofocus was used if movement of the focusing elements just before the shot is taken could then introduce some level of vibration within the lens/body/tripod. Question then is does the timer start after autofocus lock is achieved or does pressing the shutter initiate the timer and final focus lock at the same time?

Jan 23, 2019 at 10:40 AM

suteetat
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p.25 #7 · p.25 #7 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

rsk7 wrote:
I have heard that with a longer heavier lens you should use the 10s shutter delay as it can take longer than 2 seconds for the vibrations to dissipate.

That said, to me it looks like in the oof image that the focus has shifted further back as some of those feathers in the elbow(?) seem sharp.

I'm also wondering ( I don't have the lens ) if the autofocus was used if movement of the focusing elements just before the shot is taken could then introduce some level of vibration within the lens/body/tripod. Question then is does the timer start...Show more →

Actually, I am wondering the same thing. Not 100% sure if focus lock is achieved at shutter press or at the end of timer.
My guess though looking at the camera while using timer, I think focus lock happens as you press the button. That
was also why I did not use 10s delay as I think that the chick could definitely move a little during that period.
May be using shutter release cable without delay or my phone as remote would be better.

Jan 23, 2019 at 05:32 PM

k-h.a.w
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p.25 #8 · p.25 #8 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

Chicoma Mountain

Fuji GFX 50S • GF350

K-H.

Jan 23, 2019 at 10:42 PM

mike reid
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p.25 #9 · p.25 #9 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

Seattle's working harbor towards dusk. Canon 70-200 2.8 II handheld

Jan 24, 2019 at 11:29 AM

ocean2059
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p.25 #10 · p.25 #10 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images


	© ocean2059 2019

Contax 645 35mm f/3.5 lens

GFX 50S Fringer/C645 35/3.5 lens 35mm f/16.0 1/90s 100 ISO 0.0 EV

Jan 26, 2019 at 11:10 AM

highdesertmesa
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p.25 #11 · p.25 #11 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

Minolta Rokkor Varisoft 85 2.8

GFX 50S f/1.0 1/200s 100 ISO 0.0 EV

GFX 50S f/1.0 1/320s 100 ISO 0.0 EV

GFX 50S f/1.0 1/220s 100 ISO 0.0 EV

Edited on Feb 16, 2019 at 11:38 PM · View previous versions

Jan 26, 2019 at 05:56 PM

ocean2059
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p.25 #12 · p.25 #12 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images


	© ocean2059 2019

GFX 50S Fujinon GF63mm F2.8 R WR lens 63mm f/11.0 1/100s 100 ISO 0.0 EV

Jan 27, 2019 at 01:48 PM

Makten
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p.25 #13 · p.25 #13 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

rsk7 wrote:
Any idea what is causing this? Anything I can do to reduce the affect?

Yes, that's a diffraction pattern caused by the small aperture. Try f/11 or something and it will probably go away or at least be much lesser.

Jan 28, 2019 at 06:06 AM

lostinjapan
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p.25 #14 · p.25 #14 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

Just saw this and it is definitely what is known as an airy disk, ie diffraction rings. You will get them around point sources, such as street lights at small apertures.

Ryan

Edited on Jan 29, 2019 at 12:48 PM · View previous versions

Jan 29, 2019 at 11:04 AM

lostinjapan
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p.25 #15 · p.25 #15 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

Managed to get an incredible deal on the GF110, so I had to grab it. A couple of test shots from the GF110 wide open.

Ryan

The Kid

Hibernating

Jan 29, 2019 at 11:06 AM

lostinjapan
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p.25 #16 · p.25 #16 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

Makten wrote:
Yes, that's a diffraction pattern caused by the small aperture. Try f/11 or something and it will probably go away or at least be much lesser.

I did a quick review of several recent nights shots I did at a variety of apertures from F/4 to F/16 on the GF32-64 and the airy disc was clearly visible. Though you had to zoom into 400 percent to really see it, honestly it is not something I would worry about!

Ryan

Jan 29, 2019 at 07:50 PM

rbf_
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p.25 #17 · p.25 #17 · Fujifilm GFX 50S Images

rsk7 wrote:
This is a blue hour shot of Portland I took Monday morning.

I shot this with the 32-64 at 64mm, f/22, 120s, ISO400. I used f/22 trying to get the starbursts and slow down the shutter speed for the moving clouds. The starbursts at 100% have rings around the center light. You can see them in this close crop around the green light and the orange light in the upper right. I don't recall seeing this effect before but haven't done much shooting of blue hour city light shots.

Any idea what is causing this? Anything I can do to reduce...Show more →

I think I saw you say it was processed in C1. If so you can enable the 'Diffraction Correction' checkbox under the lens tab which helps correct for diffraction, it works so it may help.

Jan 29, 2019 at 08:04 PM