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shrimpone wrote:
I hoping to go this winter, but only now looking at how. Were you able to just fly down and not have to be part of a group? I lived in Latin America more than 20 years, speak fluent Spanish, and like to "get off the beaten path". What do you recommend?
Thanks!
The only direct flights from the US are with a group or on the daily charter from Miami. We flew from Cancun because it was cheaper and easier for us from the west coast. You can get your Cuban tourist visa at the airport in Cancun when you check in. Make sure you have ample time to make your connection in Cancun, it took 3 hours to clear immigration and customs on the way back. We stayed one night in Cancun each direction.
The rules for US citizens have relaxed a lot. You are no longer required to apply for a permit/visa or travel with a group. You must still have a valid qualifying reason for travel, but the categories are pretty broad. Look online for more details.
US credit/debit cards do not work and you pay extra fees to change US dollars in Cuba, so we took cash in Euros. Expect to wait hours in line to change money everywhere except the airport. Verizon has roaming in Cuba now for 2.99/minute. Most towns are starting to get wi-fi in their main squares.
My friend in Havana took care of all the arrangements for lodging, etc. and drove around with us for the days we weren't in Havana. Rental cars are available, but expensive, $100 a day. Buses go everywhere and taxis are not unreasonable, even between cities. Always stay in a Casa Particular (private house/room rental) if you can, the hotels are generally less comfortable with bad food.
In a sense all of Cuba is off the beaten track. it is difficult to find lodging, restaurants etc. away from the tourist spots but it can be done. Also the tourists usually congregate in small areas, it's easy enough to get away from them, especially in the larger cities. The Cienaga de Zapata national park is a bird hot spot and the nearby towns of Playa Larga and Playa Giron are still pretty sleepy with excellent diving and fishing as well. This will change rapidly as tourism continues to increase.
My main recommendation is to book your lodging as soon as you can. The large increase in tourism over the last year has strained capacity, especially in places like Vinales and Trinidad, with stories of backpackers sleeping in the main squares. Be sure to try and find Casas with good reviews, since they can be hit or miss.
It is very difficult to buy basic things (sunscreen, batteries, medicine, etc) so be sure to bring everything you need.
Have a great trip. Send me a PM if you want more specific information or recommendations for Casas in Trinidad, Vinales or Playa Giron.
Heron
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). Tourism is definitely up since the relaxation of rules by the US. Mostly by Europeans who want to go before it is flooded with Americans. Hard to see Cuba looking too much like the US anytime soon, given the near total lack of capitalism (still no advertising anywhere, for example) and extent of state control. It will certainly be interesting to see how things play out over the next 5 years or so.