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Archive 2015 · Batis 25 for northern lights?
  
 
Sjredo
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


Greetings from Argentina everyone

I'm planning on going to Norway/Iceland this year or maybe the next one, to behold the breathtaking northern lights.

I currently have 55 1.8 and 24-70 F4, and I'm planning on selling the latter in order to get the Batis 25 to use in that trip.

Is A7II + 25mm (I read the Batis is even wider ~ 23mm) and F2 enough for capturing that? I don't think I'll ever get another chance to do such a trip, so I want to make sure I won't be limited by gear. (Sigma 20 1.4 is out of the question).

I haven't been able to find any samples with this combo so maybe someone here might give me a lead on this

Thanks!
Dec 29, 2015 at 09:18 AM
dbehrens
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


I think the 55 and Batis 25 would be a great 2-for-1 replacement for the 24-70. As for the specific purpose of shooting northern lights though you may find the 25mm not wide enough. I would consider the Loxia 21mm or maybe the Samyang 14mm, which shoots very sharp and although its a big lens it is also so cheap you could have it as a 3rd lens in the bag.
Dave
Dec 29, 2015 at 10:12 AM
AGeoJO
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


I agree with Dave that in general, the FL of the Batis at 25mm may fall a little short. I went to Iceland twice; of course, not only to capture auroras. The first time I took the Nikkor 14-24mm and the second time around the Canon 11-24mm. there were situations that where you can benefit from a narrower angle but in general, I felt the wider the angle the better.
Dec 29, 2015 at 10:51 AM
Sjredo
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


Given the fact that I'm not leaning towards big lenses like 16-35 F4, which attribute should I prioritize? Speed or Wide'ness'?

My other missing lens is Voigtlander 15 F4.5 when it comes out as the FE version.
Dec 29, 2015 at 11:00 AM
Duckysaysquack
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


I was just in Iceland. I used my A7s and 55 f1.8. We went out twice and the conditions weren't perfect. I could only see a sliver in the sky that resembled clouds. They looked slightly green, but only barely. I was told by our guide that you can only see them with your eye when conditions were perfect and the activity was high. However when I viewed the northern lights with my camera, they were bright green.

With my A7s I shot at 3200 and 6400 and at 2-5 seconds at f1.8 and I was the only one in my tour group who could get any usable photos. The 24-70 is possible but you absolutely need a tripod.

I think the 25 Batis should be perfect. I wished I had a wider lens. But more importantly is A TRIPOD. I forgot to bring mine and the shake was unbearable. The A7ii should be nicer with IBIS, but they (the northern lights museum people) recommend shooting with around 20 seconds anyways. I was able to get away with faster with my A7s but hand shake was bad. Also, it's COLD! Make sure you have gloves Finally, the areas we were at were all clearings and the wind was pretty bad. Even with a tripod the gusts would shake the camera/tripod.
Dec 29, 2015 at 11:00 AM
Sjredo
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


Duckysaysquack wrote:
I was just in Iceland. I used my A7s and 55 f1.8. We went out twice and the conditions weren't perfect. I could only see a sliver in the sky that resembled clouds. They looked slightly green, but only barely. I was told by our guide that you can only see them with your eye when conditions were perfect and the activity was high. However when I viewed the northern lights with my camera, they were bright green.

With my A7s I shot at 3200 and 6400 and at 2-5 seconds at f1.8 and I was the only one in...Show more →

Ducky, were you exclusively there to get the northern lights? I've read a lot, and it's pretty much a given that the best time of the year is July/Aug (Winter) since the atmosphere is clearer.

Edit: BTW, thanks so much for all the advice, I'll be sure to bring a tripod !
Dec 29, 2015 at 11:09 AM
AGeoJO
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


More than 90% of the landscape shots I took in Iceland was on tripod and 100% of the aurora shots was on tripod. The exposure for the auroras, at least in my case, was between 2 and 10 secs.

The best month of the year is in March and October. You increase your chance of capturing high activities but still no one could guarantee it. We were there in both months and we were lucky enough to capture high intensity auroras both times. You may want to do this yourself and not in a tour, unless it is a specific photography tour. Rent a car and do it on your own. The better auroras are mostly in the morning hours past midnight, long after the touristic tours have gone away.

FYI, the FE 16-35mm is not big . The Canon 11-24 and Nikon 14-24 are definitely bulkier and heavier. Yes, the CV 15mm would be a good candidate but at f/4.5 it is even slower than the zoom lenses. But on tripod, it doesn't mean that much. If I were to do it again, I would take the Canon 11-24mm all over again.
Dec 29, 2015 at 11:41 AM
Sjredo
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


AGeoJO wrote:
More than 90% of the landscape shots I took in Iceland was on tripod and 100% of the aurora shots was on tripod. The exposure for the auroras, at least in my case, was between 2 and 10 secs.

The best month of the year is in March and October. You increase your chance of capturing high activities but still no one could guarantee it. We were there in both months and we were lucky enough to capture high intensity auroras both times. You may want to do this yourself and not in a tour, unless it is a specific...Show more →

Would you have any of the pictures to share with EXIF? Would there be any advantage on bringing a faster lens instead of a wider one?
I had thought the batis would cut it and then keep it, but now I'm having second thoughts...



Dec 29, 2015 at 12:17 PM
Duckysaysquack
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


Sjredo wrote:
Ducky, were you exclusively there to get the northern lights? I've read a lot, and it's pretty much a given that the best time of the year is July/Aug (Winter) since the atmosphere is clearer.

Edit: BTW, thanks so much for all the advice, I'll be sure to bring a tripod !


I went because it was reasonably cheap and there was a chance for northern lights. I think June/Aug is actually summer and there the sun doesn't really set at night, so it may be harder for you to see the lights. In the winter, the sun rises at 11am and sets around 3/4pm. For us, the weather was just poor, lots of clouds, rain on and off, and the activity wasn't very strong.
Dec 29, 2015 at 12:30 PM
Sjredo
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p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


Duckysaysquack wrote:
I went because it was reasonably cheap and there was a chance for northern lights. I think June/Aug is actually summer and there the sun doesn't really set at night, so it may be harder for you to see the lights. In the winter, the sun rises at 11am and sets around 3/4pm. For us, the weather was just poor, lots of clouds, rain on and off, and the activity wasn't very strong.


True, I forgot the difference with the northern hemisphere, haha, I'll have to do a little more research on that, but I'm sure winter is the season by choice







Dec 29, 2015 at 12:33 PM
Sjredo
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p.1 #11 · p.1 #11 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


Duckysaysquack wrote:
I went because it was reasonably cheap and there was a chance for northern lights. I think June/Aug is actually summer and there the sun doesn't really set at night, so it may be harder for you to see the lights. In the winter, the sun rises at 11am and sets around 3/4pm. For us, the weather was just poor, lots of clouds, rain on and off, and the activity wasn't very strong.


True, I forgot the difference with the northern hemisphere, haha, I'll have to do a little more research on that, but I'm sure winter is the season by choice







Dec 29, 2015 at 12:33 PM
Andy
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p.1 #12 · p.1 #12 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


Sjredo wrote:
Ducky, were you exclusively there to get the northern lights? I've read a lot, and it's pretty much a given that the best time of the year is July/Aug (Winter) since the atmosphere is clearer.

Edit: BTW, thanks so much for all the advice, I'll be sure to bring a tripod !

Hi, just a point to make... do not go in July or even early August to see the northern lights in Iceland. You can be lucky in later August, and September, but really the very best times for aurora is October through March.

I have used the Batis 25, you can do fine with it - though some folks prefer a wider field of view. I like the 25, and if you need wider, you can always just shoot multiple frames, camera in Portrait orientation, and stitch them - the bonus there is you have many more pixels! Yes, you must have a tripod and you need a remote.



Dec 29, 2015 at 12:50 PM
Sjredo
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p.1 #13 · p.1 #13 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


Andy wrote:
Hi, just a point to make... do not go in July or even early August to see the northern lights in Iceland. You can be lucky in later August, and September, but really the very best times for aurora is October through March.

I have used the Batis 25, you can do fine with it - though some folks prefer a wider field of view. I like the 25, and if you need wider, you can always just shoot multiple frames, camera in Portrait orientation, and stitch them - the bonus there is you have many more pixels! Yes, you...Show more →

Would you mind explaining the need for a remote? Also, wouldn't stitching be complicated due to the lights "movement"?

Regarding the timeframe, my bad, I'm from the lower hemisphere and I forgot about the difference. I'll have to keep checking when the best time of the year really is.
Dec 29, 2015 at 12:52 PM
AGeoJO
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p.1 #14 · p.1 #14 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


Sjredo wrote:
Would you have any of the pictures to share with EXIF? Would there be any advantage on bringing a faster lens instead of a wider one?
I had thought the batis would cut it and then keep it, but now I'm having second thoughts...



I posted these images here previously but here you go....





© AGeoJO 2015





© AGeoJO 2015





© AGeoJO 2015




Dec 29, 2015 at 12:56 PM
Sjredo
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p.1 #15 · p.1 #15 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


WOW, the last one is just insane! I'll try my best to get a 14mm Roki/Samy at least to go with the 25mm... I really don't have the resources to get my hands on a 11-24 to go with a A7S.

Congrats on your work AGeoJO, though I'm pretty sure the feeling of being there in person can't be transmitted through photographs


Dec 29, 2015 at 12:59 PM
AGeoJO
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p.1 #16 · p.1 #16 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


Sjredo wrote:
WOW, the last one is just insane! I'll try my best to get a 14mm Roki/Samy at least to go with the 25mm... I really don't have the resources to get my hands on a 11-24 to go with a A7S.

Congrats on your work AGeoJO, though I'm pretty sure the feeling of being there in person can't be transmitted through photographs


Thanks! Just FYI, we got back to our hotel at 4:00AM that morning after shooting auroras for several hours.
Dec 29, 2015 at 01:13 PM
Ronny Olsson
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p.1 #17 · p.1 #17 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


Superb shot Joshua ! I hope for simular shots next trip


Dec 29, 2015 at 05:04 PM
Andy
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p.1 #18 · p.1 #18 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


Sjredo wrote:
Would you mind explaining the need for a remote? Also, wouldn't stitching be complicated due to the lights "movement"?

Regarding the timeframe, my bad, I'm from the lower hemisphere and I forgot about the difference. I'll have to keep checking when the best time of the year really is.

On our workshops, we like to teach "touchless" photography - sure, you can use a 2- or 10-second timer, but a remote is best for the sharpest photos

I have stitched many photos like this - you'll be surprised what can be done! Good luck.
Dec 30, 2015 at 06:47 AM
arduluth
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p.1 #19 · p.1 #19 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


Awesome photos, Joshua!!

There's a lot of variation in how much the lights move. Even as they move, they often move in patterns. Some lights are somewhat static, and some are frenetic. I generally prefer fast over wide. Depending on how much the traits of the show, I'll shoot anywhere from 1" to 30" - sometimes, you really miss out on the structure at longer exposures than a second or two.

The Batis 25mm f/2 looks like it'd be an awesome lens for aurora, at least for me. How wide you go is a matter of taste and your own compositional sensibilities. I'm kind of a weirdo and generally use a lens in the area of 24-50mm rather than wider. I love having the aurora fill the frame, always makes them feel even bigger to me.

FWIW, the best aurora I've seen were between March and October, rather than the other way around. Plenty of nice summer aurora. The only problem is that when you get as far north as Iceland, the days are so long that the window for dark skies is very short, or maybe even non-existent. This is the reason winter is associated with auroras, not the actual level of activity.


Dec 30, 2015 at 11:01 AM
AGeoJO
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p.1 #20 · p.1 #20 · Batis 25 for northern lights?


^^ Thank you! Yes, I agree that the angle will depend on your preference.

As far as exposure duration concerned, it is like a double edge sword. If you expose on the short end using a faster lens in general you get sharper/crisper rendition as auroras can move back and forth in an unpredictable direction and that movement can render the auroras appear blurrier if you use a longer exposure. But the auroras can be too narrow or too short and not quite frame filling. If you expose it longer, just like fireworks, it can be more frame filling as it goes across the sky but again, it may make it look a tad blurrier. I would suggest to vary the exposure, but not too short nor too long.


Dec 30, 2015 at 12:03 PM
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