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Archive 2014 · Yellowstone Trip Advice Please

  
 
mrcolin2u
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Yellowstone Trip Advice Please


Taking my first trip to Yellowstone probably in late May next year. I plan to rent a house / cabin for 6 days.
I've read that The Lamar Valley is the best place to see wolves and other wildlife.
the accommodations I've been looking at are mostly on the West side, is an easy drive to The Lamar Valley from the west or should I look more to the North entrance to stay ?
I will be driving my camper van from southern california with a couple of friends from the UK hoping to see lots of animal activity.
Cheers
Colin



Nov 24, 2014 at 08:37 PM
bflood
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Yellowstone Trip Advice Please


On a snow coach tour in Yellowstone in winter, 2007, someone up front asked the guide what time of year he'd recommend as the single best time to visit the park, and he said without hesitation "the third week in May." When pressed, he said it was late enough in the year that if snow happens, it's unlikely to be enough snow to really interfere with vacation plans, everything that hibernates will be out of hibernation and hungry (and therefore out feeding), most of the cubs, calves, and kits will have been born (except elk), and it's before Memorial Day weekend, so the park won't be crowded. So, after retiring at the end of April 2 years ago, I packed up and was in Yellowstone for the 3rd week in May. Boy, was he right!

If by west you mean West Yellowstone, I can say it's a nice town with pretty much everything you might need or want (stayed there several times). If you stay there, I recommend allotting some time (a morning or afternoon) to the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center there - excellent viewing of captive animals. Driving around the park requires traveling some distance no matter where you stay. Gardiner MT is distinctly smaller with less variety than W Yellowstone, and the Cooke City area outside the northeast gate is very small and limited. Not bad places to stay, mind you, but the smaller size means less to offer.

On my 3rd week in May trip, I saw more bears (almost all black bears) than I've seen on my other half dozen trips to the park combined - they were everywhere. I photographed a newborn elk calf no more than 1 hour old, wolves feeding on a carcass in the Lamar River. It was sensational. I hope your time is as good.

At the Lower Falls on the Yellowstone River (the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone), there will be a rainbow in the spray at the bottom of the falls around 800-900AM - ask at the visitor center from the best time. It's visible from both sides of the river - take your polarizer.

The Lamar Valley is traditionally the best place to find wolves and buffalo, but elk and buffalo can be found on the west side along the road between West Yellowstone and Madison Junction. I found bears in every part of the park except around the Old Faithful geyser basin part of the park. I did encounter an overnight snowfall - it just made things prettier and didn't keep me from getting where I wanted to go. The only place in Yellowstone I saw eagles was in the area between Midway Geyser Basin and the Norris Geyser area. In the northwest, look for bighorn sheep on the hillsides along the road between Mammoth Hot Springs and the north gate, best at the tradition feeding times - the first 2 hours after sunrise and the last 2 hours leading to sunset. You can sometimes find moose in the same part of the park.

While you are there, allow time for Grand Teton National Park. Lots of elk and bison, some bears (ask at the visitor center for the latest sightings), moose around Moose Junction (!) where the road crosses the Snake River and around Gros Ventre, and spectacular scenery. Look for pronghorn in the open meadows around Moran Junction.



Nov 24, 2014 at 10:46 PM
mrcolin2u
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Yellowstone Trip Advice Please


Thank you bflood for taking the time to reply. That was an excellent response and has armed me with the information I need to plan my trip.
Best regards
Colin




Nov 25, 2014 at 02:39 AM
jterps
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Yellowstone Trip Advice Please


I would recommend splitting your stay up between at least two different locations if you can. That way it's easier to get to different areas of the park without a lot of driving every day. Driving in the park will be slow due to low speed limits, winding roads, and traffic stopping and slowing down to see the wildlife. From West Yellowstone to the Lamar valley is over 50 miles and can take close to 2 hours at times. If your trip is about photography you'll want to be in your locations at sunrise and just before sunset so a 1 - 2 hour drive will mean getting up very early. Don't limit yourself to just the Lamar Valley, the entire park deserves a visit.

I've stayed in Gardiner and that's a doable drive to the Lamar Valley with things to see along the way. I've also stayed in Cooke City and that's close to the Valley. I don't know if you can get cabins in these places. There are also accommodations at Tower-Roosevelt in the park but I have never stayed there and don't know any details. Prices are likely to be higher in the park.

Enjoy your trip.



Nov 25, 2014 at 10:14 AM
Genes Home
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Yellowstone Trip Advice Please


I can agree with bflood's comments in general. But will add the following:

1. Make reservations NOW. By January accomodations, even in West Yellowstone, will generally not be available, and all the campgrounds in the park will be full. May is the 1st "high visitation" month. I would go as early in the month as possible, even with the variable weather, just because of the mad crush of people trying to see the park before the total devastation running up to Memorial Day.

2. Go out to https://www.yellowstoneassociation.org/shop/maps?page=1&a=product-categories and order the "trail leaflets" and the the national park map. They are currently out of their big trip planning package, but it should be available again in late January and you really do need it to enjoy the park to the fullest.

3. If you are going to stay in west yellowstone you are about 2.5 hours from Lamar Canyon if the traffic and road conditions are in your favor. Wolf Watching is generally a (very) early morning and late evening activity. Unless you get really, really, lucky you will need the biggest spotting scopes on tripods that you can take with you. Camera-wise, the same rules apply. If you google yellowstone and wolves at this site you will see lots of nice shots taken with the big 500/600 lenses mounting 2x converters. There are other wolves in Yellowstone, but they are rarely seen except for the Canyon Pack (normally from the Grizzly Overlook in the Hayden Valley).

4. Don't be afraid to go hiking to see wildlife.

5. FYI, when I go in May I generally reserve one of the little cabins at Mammoth the first week they are open and use that as my base. It's only about 45 minutes from Mammoth over to Lamar Valley. If nothing is available at Mammoth I will stay at Cooke City or Silvergate as they are actually closer to Lamar and lots of wildlife is seen right around the north east entrance all the time. I normally spend a week up north and then a week in the Old Faithful area for bison and natural features. Norris Hot Springs very early in the morning is a favorite of mine.

6. Check out "Yellowstone Reports" for current data on wolves (you will have to subscribe, but its cheap and well worth it).

7. Unless you have more than 10 days to spend, I would make the Grand Teton area a seperate trip, as an opposing remark to bflood. There is just too much to do and see in Yellowstone and if you lock yourself into a tight schedule you will regret it, as the travel time between the two is more than a half day unless you are driving a race car instead of looking for scenery and animals.

8. there are LOTS more comments on this site about YNP and GTNP, just use the search engine.

later,

Gene



Nov 25, 2014 at 10:35 AM
drobertfranz
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Yellowstone Trip Advice Please


mrcolin2u wrote:
Taking my first trip to Yellowstone probably in late May next year. I plan to rent a house / cabin for 6 days.
I've read that The Lamar Valley is the best place to see wolves and other wildlife.
the accommodations I've been looking at are mostly on the West side, is an easy drive to The Lamar Valley from the west or should I look more to the North entrance to stay ?
I will be driving my camper van from southern california with a couple of friends from the UK hoping to see lots of animal activity.
Cheers
Colin


First of all I've been leading photo tours in Yellowstone since 1990. Lamar Valley in not the best place to photograph wolves etc in the spring. It can be good, but most often the wildlife is to far away for good photography. FYI wolves in the spring really look terrible for photography, they're shedding fur and look nothing like they look in winter, which is really the best time to photograph them. Don't plan on chasing wolves and bears out in the Lamar Valley it will assure you of a ticket and hefty fine. Where the best wolf sightings are in the spring depend on where the pack is denning. Sometimes it works out well for photography but the park will close areas of high wolf activity.

It's a very long drive from West Yellowstone to the Lamar Valley, I sure wouldn't want to do it every day. Sunrise in late May is very early around 5:30am and sunset is late 9:30pm so your days will be very long. You could spend some time in West and then in Gardiner. That would make it easier.

May is prime time for bears. I average 10-12 bears per day on my spring tours with many good photo opps. Look for black bears around Tower and grizzlies can be seen anywhere, but around Fishing Bridge,along the lake and the Hayden Valley can be great.. Again do not go chasing grizzly bears off road.. Dangerous and illegal. Bison calves will be everywhere and the elk will be dropping calves by then as well. Best area for elk calves is around Mammoth and on Swan Lake Flats. Look for bighorn lambs in the canyon between Gardiner and Mammoth and near Tower Falls. Rams can be found on Specimen Ridge and near the bridge over the Yellowstone River near Roosevelt Junction. Look for blue grouse on Dunraven Pass.

Good luck, have fun and be careful.








© drobertfranz 2014





© drobertfranz 2014





© drobertfranz 2014





© drobertfranz 2014





© drobertfranz 2014




Nov 25, 2014 at 11:25 AM
G.E. Smith
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Yellowstone Trip Advice Please


Colin,

One tip I would like to share is a link to the Yellowstone Network. It's a good source to use for wildlife sightings, especially before your trip.

Greg



Edited on Nov 29, 2014 at 11:11 AM · View previous versions



Nov 25, 2014 at 06:15 PM
Grantland
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Yellowstone Trip Advice Please


tag


Nov 27, 2014 at 11:00 AM





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