Archive 2014 · Mesa Arch

Jacobovs
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Mesa Arch

Just love Moab for shooting. Such dramatic shot opportunities. Any tips on reducing the flares?

http://jacobovitz.smugmug.com/Travel/ACC-Moab-June-2014/i-2HxX6pq/0/L/SHL_5556-L.jpg

http://jacobovitz.smugmug.com/Travel/ACC-Moab-June-2014/i-HzCFVr9/0/L/SHL_5527%20-%20Version%202-L.jpg

any feedback is always welcome

Jun 08, 2014 at 12:29 PM

ben egbert
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Mesa Arch

When I shoot here, I stop down to f16 which helps with flare and I wait until the sun is almost winked out of the picture as it goes behind the arch. I still have flare to deal with but it is manageable.

I like your second image, nice color and you included the whole arch. This is pretty much my favorite place to stand.

Jun 08, 2014 at 12:33 PM

Jacobovs
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Mesa Arch

ben egbert wrote:
When I shoot here, I stop down to f16 which helps with flare and I wait until the sun is almost winked out of the picture as it goes behind the arch. I still have flare to deal with but it is manageable.

I like your second image, nice color and you included the whole arch. This is pretty much my favorite place to stand.

thanks, it was shot at f20, would you suggest going up to f16? Could those dots be dust? I did notice some dust on the lens afterwards. I was using the Nikon 14-24m 2.8 btw.

Jun 08, 2014 at 09:28 PM

ben egbert
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Mesa Arch

Jacobovs wrote:
thanks, it was shot at f20, would you suggest going up to f16? Could those dots be dust? I did notice some dust on the lens afterwards. I was using the Nikon 14-24m 2.8 btw.

Generally speaking, f20 is better than f16 for flare, but diffractions makes the lens softer. So f20 was a good choice when flare is the main issue.

I can't say about the dust, possible though. Some people put their finger in front of the sun and take one shot for the main image and another exposed for the sun and then blend them. Getting both exposures right in a fast changing situation is a challenge so I prefer the other mostly blocked sun version.

I shoot these in burst mode and bracket maybe 1/3 stop. Then I shoot lots of bursts just as the sun is going behind something. I will have flare in most of them, but one will usually be very easy to fix because it may have only one or two small spots.

I see I was at f11.

Edited on Jun 09, 2014 at 11:03 AM · View previous versions

Jun 09, 2014 at 09:50 AM

dgdg
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Mesa Arch

Your second shot is beautiful. Good job.

From my experience (one visit) a few things help reduce flare here.
1. remove any filters from your lens. I noticed pre dawn flare while I was testing exposures and quickly removed my uv filter. That made a difference and the sun wasn't even over the horizon yet. I recall your nikon lens has no filter ring, I think.
2. The best thing I did was shoot once the sun started to barely creep over the that mountain ridge. You will start to see flare even then, but it is manageable, briefly. Don't stop taking bracketed shots. After that, the light is strong. You may do ok as the sun just starts to disappear from the window.
3. take one exposure that is 2-3 stops lower to isolate the sunburst, you can blend that in.
4. Use a trick that I first learned by Jim Fox, put your finger in front of the lens so it covers the sun and take a few shots. You can use different positions and take pics. Then you can use photoshop to blend and correct the flare.

David

David

Jun 09, 2014 at 10:29 AM

JimFox
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Mesa Arch

Hi Jacob,

Ben isn't shooting with a 14-24mm Nikon, so the advice he is giving you is just general advice. There was nothing wrong with shooting it at f20 to get the starburst from the sun. A lot of people go up to f22 to get a nice sunstar.

I think David mentions everything I was going to say. I may have to just hire him to be my ghost writer here...

I will say that I like #2 the best as all of the lens flares (not dust on the lens) really ruins #1. In both shots though you have blown out skies. #1 rule when exposing for a shot... expose for the highlights first... check your histogram with a test shot, and keep an eye on it. Have the "Blinkies" turned on your display, so that the moment you are blowing highlights you will know it and can adjust your exposure. So while #2 is the best one here, you really should go back and recover the blown out areas in the sky if possible.

Jim

Jun 10, 2014 at 01:41 PM

Jacobovs
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Mesa Arch

Thanks , I appreciate you taking the time to help me out.

Jun 10, 2014 at 10:19 PM

Jacobovs
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Mesa Arch

dgdg wrote:
Your second shot is beautiful. Good job.

From my experience (one visit) a few things help reduce flare here.
1. remove any filters from your lens. I noticed pre dawn flare while I was testing exposures and quickly removed my uv filter. That made a difference and the sun wasn't even over the horizon yet. I recall your nikon lens has no filter ring, I think.
2. The best thing I did was shoot once the sun started to barely creep over the that mountain ridge. You will start to see flare even then, but it is manageable, briefly. Don't stop taking bracketed...Show more →

Thanks for that tip about placing my finger over the sun. I will definitely try that!

Jun 11, 2014 at 10:15 PM


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