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Archive 2013 · The best time in California...

  
 
tsaphoto
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · The best time in California...


is certainly late September through late November. It's still warm (OK, it's always warm enough here), the tourists have mostly left, the summer fog is gone and winter fog hasn't hit yet...

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/1356/ug1y.jpg


C&C, please! Two questions:

1. I hate the glowing edges that come from slightly mismatched HDR exposures. Photoshop's autoalign tool is terrible and the HDR tool does them intentionally! I hand-matched these and cloned out the edges in the JPG after processing, but there's gotta be a better way. I understand if that better way is "lug a tripod out there and the shots will line up."

2. Do lower light and longer shutter exposures lend pictures that ethereal painting quality I often see in some of the really great landscapes here? Are there filters that are must-haves? What makes landscape light nicer?



Sep 25, 2013 at 01:16 AM
JimFox
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · The best time in California...


I actually prefer Dec thru March or April as best times to shoot California Beaches, atleast SoCal beaches. Better chance for clouds at sunset.

As for your shot, it looks like your hand matching worked out. I am not sure why the Align tool in Photoshop didn't work, it's actually pretty accurate. Though the #1 issue is you didn't use a tripod... especially at sunset when the light is getting low and the shutter speeds tend to get slower... it's really best to use a tripod.

And in general, for shooting tripods, the #1 thing that will benefit most people is using..... yep... a tripod.... It helps you to stop and compose and think... and it helps you to have lined up shots as often the sky will be much brighter then the ground when shooting at sunset or sunrise, so it's great to have shots exposed for both.

As for your question #2... how can any of us tell you what to do to get what YOU have seen as painterly type photo's? Since we didn't see them, it's hard to say. There are ton's of ways to get a shot to look more painterly, but unless you can point to a reference that you are thinking about, it's really hard to say what it is you are meaning by painterly.

As for must have filters? There is only one... that's a polarizer... Especially if you are shooting around water.

Now as for your shot. I personally do not use HDR, I think in general it creates bad habits and sloppy technique.... you can see it all the time when you are out shooting.... someone next to you on a tripod and for every shot they take it sounds like a machine gun going off, just blindly shooting 7 exposures.... even if the scene only required 1 exposure.... they are shooting 7 shots.... So skip HDR, learn how to use Layer Masks and blend your own shots... then you have the ultimate in control.

Jim

Jim



Sep 25, 2013 at 02:50 AM
gdanmitchell
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · The best time in California...


tsaphoto wrote:
is certainly late September through late November. It's still warm (OK, it's always warm enough here), the tourists have mostly left, the summer fog is gone and winter fog hasn't hit yet...


Every year at about this time, as a California photographer I feel like I'm "coming back to life" after the less compelling summer season. (To be fair, there are subjects to photograph in the summer here, too.) For example, in my view, the September through October season is the most beautiful of the year in the Sierra - lovely golden light, moderate temperatures, no crowds (aside from certain aspen lakes), an occasional early season storm to make things interesting, and no mosquitos!

But this is just the start of the best time of year - the nine months from September through May or so. The coast is much more interesting in the winter, when giant Pacific storms alternate with periods of beautiful clear weather and occasional fog and when giant surf is always a possibility. The winter storms can produce wonderful atmospheric effects, and winter's tule fogs are quiet and mysterious. Migratory birds appear up and down the state. And more, much more...

I hate the glowing edges that come from slightly mismatched HDR exposures. Photoshop's autoalign tool is terrible and the HDR tool does them intentionally! I hand-matched these and cloned out the edges in the JPG after processing, but there's gotta be a better way. I understand if that better way is "lug a tripod out there and the shots will line up."

I'll probably step on someone's toes by saying this, but if you are serious about landscape photography you really need to use a tripod. This is even more true if you are doing HDR or stitching. Yes, I know that you can come acceptably close in some cases by bursting three bracketed shots, but "acceptably close" really isn't. And there are all kinds of other advantages to using a tripod - the ability to use a much wider range of shutter speeds while keeping the ISO low, and the tremendous compositional advantages come to mind immediately. (The latter is what Jim is referring to - you will have a much better ability to both see and control composition with the camera fixed to the top of a tripod.*)

If you haven't used a tripod much, I understand how this may seem like a burdensome and geeky thing. You'll get over it, and you'll learn to use the tripod without much thought at all.

About HDR... I have nothing against it as a technique when used sparingly and subtly. (I'm very much not a fan of the obvious "Look At Me! I"m HDR!" sort of shots.) It is simply one more tool in the toolbox of photographers, to be called upon when it is necessary or useful with certain complex and challenging shots. You and others might be surprised to find out that some landscape photographers whose work might be regarded as very natural and free of apparent Photoshop "trickery" actually make subtle use of the technique as a way of recovering shadow detail or of dealing with extremely large dynamic range scenes. The key though is that you wouldn't even notice it in the photograph.

In my view HDR as a "solution" has been over-rated and over-promoted, to the point that some folks think they need it for almost every shot. While I'm not an HDR shooter, I do exposure blending when huge dynamic ranges require it. Yet, even though I often shoot subjects with challenging dynamic ranges, I probably don't even have to resort to blending in more than perhaps one in one hundred images. So, rather than immediately resorting to HDR or similar techniques, reserve them for the very few shots in which they might actually be necessary.

Do lower light and longer shutter exposures lend pictures that ethereal painting quality I often see in some of the really great landscapes here? Are there filters that are must-haves? What makes landscape light nicer?

There are a tremendous number of variables that you can work with when doing landscape photography, and among them are the things you mention here.

A chief "advantage" (effect?") of shooting in low light can be that this light is "softer" than that during brighter times of the day. This softens the shadows and tends to fill them with a bit more light, lending a sort of "fuller" and less harsh quality to the scene. It is somewhat like using a soft light box instead of a single electronic flash for portrait shooting. Instead of highly directional light that produces bright highlights and starkly contrasting shadows, the light comes from all directions and softly washes over the subject, filling in the shadows and creating fewer stark highlights.

This soft light can come very early or very late in the day. It can come from shooting in shade and shadow instead of full light. It can be found when shooting in cloudy conditions. (A friend who is very successful as a landscape photographer loves conditions with "high, thin clouds" and suggests that this can produce the most beautiful landscape light in many circumstances.)

Whether or not long exposures themselves help produce this "soft light" effect or are simply a side effect of shooting in low and soft light is perhaps open to debate.

In addition to the quality of the light itself, a few other factors (among many!) can make a difference. The quality of the atmosphere makes a huge difference - crystal clear, slightly hazy, nearly opaque, thick fog. It also matters whether the quality is continuous or variable - slight low fog obscuring the ground with crystal clear sky above, ocean spray and mist thickening the atmosphere and catching light. And related to this is the direction of the light - is it coming from behind the subject, the side, high or low, etc.

I think that the key is perhaps not so much trying to enumerate all of these things - ultimately, the world is so varied that this becomes an unmanageable task - but to work on developing a sensitivity to them and perhaps even an obsession with seeing and observing them.

Good luck!

Dan

* A note about tripods. While I'm pretty convinced of their value for landscape photography, I also happen to believe that doing some rapid, handheld photography can be a powerful way to help develop your ability to see quickly and instinctively - a skill that virtually all photographers hone to a fine edge. When you are not doing landscape, take a camera out for a walk and just look for interesting compositions and subjects and shoot - street photography is a good exercise in this regard. You'll be surprised by how much more you start to see.

Edited on Sep 25, 2013 at 02:15 PM · View previous versions



Sep 25, 2013 at 10:48 AM
tsaphoto
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · The best time in California...


Jim, maybe I'm confused as to the "true" meaning of HDR - this shot is two exposures, hand-blended using layer masks. I thought anything that took more than one snap and blended them to increase the range counted.

I haven't liked any of the images that the PS HDR tool spits out; I find them strangely washed-out looking, like they're too low in contrast.

As for Q2, I meant your photos! Or the phenomenal Assiniboine shots posted recently. I like how you described the effect of the cloud bank as a reflector for soft light in the Mt. Rainier shot; I'm just trying to absorb all the techniques.

Dec-Mar may have better clouds over SoCal beaches; I think Oct-Nov gets the nicest blue ocean color. In SoCal it comes in after the first NW swells of the season when the water temperature is in the low to mid 60s.

By a polarizer, do you mean a circular polarizer?

Thanks for the help.



Sep 25, 2013 at 11:05 AM
michaelnel
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · The best time in California...


JimFox wrote:
As for must have filters? There is only one... that's a polarizer... Especially if you are shooting around water.


I find I forget sometimes that if I am shooting wide angle, a polarizer can do less than pleasing stuff to the sky. It can cause part of the sky to become deep blue, but the other side of the frame may be a much lighter blue. That's because of the way polarizers work, with maximum effect being at 90 degrees to the angle of the sun. In a wide angle shot you cover such an area of sky that the polarization effect won't be constant across the frame and it looks strange.

I need to remember to not use the polarizer in those situations.



Sep 25, 2013 at 11:33 AM
gdanmitchell
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · The best time in California...


It sounds like you may be doing something more like exposure blending than HDR. Sometimes people lump together a range of techniques designed to be used to deal with large dynamic range subjects under the heading of "HDR," but I don't look at it this way. Without getting into a whole ugly semantic argument, I look at it this way;

HDR is a software process that more or less automatically attempts to maximize local contrast by combining the "best" portions of several bracketed exposures of the scene under the control of software algorithms. It may be used subtly to increase shadow detail and control highlight brightness or it may be used in the familiar way that creates the "HDR look" that many either love or hate.

Exposure blending also starts with two or more bracketed exposures, where some are optimized for the brightest portions of the scene and others for the darkest portions. Typically, the two (or more) exposures are placed in layers in Photoshop and then masks are used to manually reveal the desired portions of the component images. For example, if the lighter image is placed in a layer above the darker image, a mask may be used to "paint in" additional shadow detail.

Black point and shadow and other controls (like the shadow and highlight adjustment in Photoshop) may also be used to make (typically) global adjustments to highlights and shadows to similar effect when there is sufficient detail in the original single image.

About polarizers and wide angle lenses... keep in mind that you don't need to rotate the polarizer to the position of maximum effect. Sometimes in a situation where the maximum polarizing effect might create the ugly sky effect you allude to you can use just a bit of polarization and get away with it. Also, if your goal is not to do things that only a polarizer can do - e.g. control reflections - you might be better off using a post-processing technique to get to the same place instead. For example, you might be able to create that sky effect in post using curves or similar adjustments.

Dan



Sep 25, 2013 at 11:51 AM
JimFox
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · The best time in California...


tsaphoto wrote:
Jim, maybe I'm confused as to the "true" meaning of HDR - this shot is two exposures, hand-blended using layer masks. I thought anything that took more than one snap and blended them to increase the range counted.

I haven't liked any of the images that the PS HDR tool spits out; I find them strangely washed-out looking, like they're too low in contrast.

As for Q2, I meant your photos! Or the phenomenal Assiniboine shots posted recently. I like how you described the effect of the cloud bank as a reflector for soft light in the Mt. Rainier shot; I'm
...Show more

Dan answered the HDR questons perfectly. The term HDR came out in conjunction with the automated software that created "HDR" several years ago. Now, it seems many people are exanding that definition to include anything that expands dynamic range in a photo. I think it's less confusing if we stay with the original definitions, and Dan as I said stated it perfectly.

As to the painterly effect than. I simply have to say it really comes mostly from being in a place where the light is right... Now some people are processing their shots and adding a very slight Orton Effect (a glowing blur) to their shots to create a painterly feeling. You might have seen that. That is a current fad going on for the last year or two.

Jim



Sep 25, 2013 at 02:04 PM
JimFox
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · The best time in California...


michaelnel wrote:
I find I forget sometimes that if I am shooting wide angle, a polarizer can do less than pleasing stuff to the sky. It can cause part of the sky to become deep blue, but the other side of the frame may be a much lighter blue. That's because of the way polarizers work, with maximum effect being at 90 degrees to the angle of the sun. In a wide angle shot you cover such an area of sky that the polarization effect won't be constant across the frame and it looks strange.

I need to remember to not use the
...Show more

Hey Michael,

You are sharing what is generally the common thought when it comes regarding the use of poliarizers with WA lenses. But let's break away from the crowd as I share a little tip with you that now many seem to have found...

I still almost always use a polarizer at WA (16mm full frame). As you have noticed, even without using a polarizer when shooting WA, you will get a natural polarization that occurs at 90 degrees from the sun. Even without the filter, the sky in your shot will be darker from that natural polarization in the sky.

I have noticed for me, often the sun is torwards the right side of my frame as I am shooting my beach shots here in SoCal. So the right side is bright from the sun. The middle of the sky is dark because it's 90 degrees from the sun and then the lleft side is light again. (without using a polarizer). For me, I hate that uneven sky, so then when processing my shots, I have to use a layer mask to lighten the darker area in the top middle of the sky... I have to use another layer mask to darken slightly the left side of the sky so that the sky gradiates nicely from left to right...

But next time try this... put the Polarizer back on your WA, and when shooting shots that include the sky, instead of using the polarizer to enhance the sky, you use to helo gradiate out that natural polarization, so that the sky looks more uniform. So you turn the polarizer CCW (so it wont losen up accidently and fall off), as you turn it, you will see the right side darken a bit, then the middle will get very dark (of course) and then as you continue to turn it, you will see the middle get lighter and the left side get darker... that is what you want. You adjust it ever so slightly so that the darkeness from the poloarizer looks uniform now from the left to the middle... Now you have reduced that often unsightly natural polarization blob in the middle of the sky, and you didn't even need photoshop to do it...

So for me, unless I am really losing light and the benefits of the polarizer are not needed in the lcoation I am shooting, the polarizer stays on my WA lenses also...

Jim



Sep 25, 2013 at 02:16 PM
michaelnel
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · The best time in California...


Great tip Jim, I will keep that in mind.


Sep 25, 2013 at 02:41 PM





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