PeakPhoto
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Well I'll try to help as much as possible. But there are far better star shooters on here than me. So if one of them posts, listen to them not me :P. Plus I'm self taught, so I might of self taught myself wrong ha.
Anyway for lenses it all depends on the look you're going for, but if you want a milky way shot like the one you posted you're going to need to go wide. So your Tokina should do the trick, also having the wide aperture of 2.8 should help a lot. Plus wider lenses let you take longer exposures before hitting star trails.
My typical settings for the stars are f/2.8, ISO 3200 (1600 if your camera doesn't handle noise well), and usually 30-45 seconds. Always depends on the situation.
To get milky way you might be up late, because the clusters (at least that's what I call them) or the strongest part of the milky way, rise and set just like the moon. There are calculators on the internet to let you know when and where the milky way will be at what time. But in the northern hemisphere this time of year it doesn't rise till the wee hours of the mourning.
Now for foreground the picture, a lot of people recommend a composite shot. Maybe get a shot while the moon is out. And take your star picture later after the moon has set. Then stack the two together later in post. Otherwise you won't get great milky way with the moon out. And it's difficult to get great foreground without the moon.
Alright the final thing, star trails. For me I like to stack. I use the same settings I use for star pictures mentioned earlier and then lock the remote to get back to back shots. Then I use StarStax to stack them later. I like doing it this way because it increases my odds of getting something cool like a meteor in a shot I post. It also allows me to make a timelapse of the stars. Which someday I'd like to make into a short little movie.
Anyway, hopefully my advice isn't totally wrong! Have a great trip and I look forward to seeing the results!
Andy
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