Anyone that have seen or tried any L-plate for the new Canon 1DX body? I'm interested in all brands but especially the new one from RRS. It's a new style and I kind of like the idea of the new modular design. If it's still as good and stable as the old style L-plates. And having the Hex key inside the plate is rather nice also.
looks like RRS pulled out all the stops on redesigning the L for this one. impressive piece of art and science. oh i have a feeling its rock solid.
and you know Kirk, always second to the party with theirs. they need to see how its done first.
sjms wrote:
looks like RRS pulled out all the stops on redesigning the L for this one. impressive piece of art and science. oh i have a feeling its rock solid.
and you know Kirk, always second to the party with theirs. they need to see how its done first.
I was actually leery of these new modular plates until I got a BNEX7-L Set for my new mirrorless camera last week. The vertical piece is keyed into the horizontal piece via two pins, and when you tighten up the hex nut properly it's as solid as a single piece of metal. My L-plate is small but I bet the key fit is as accurate on the larger plates too. It's a nice design and looks like it's going to be just as reliable as the older design.
pcho wrote:
Just a question, if I purchase the B1DX-L L plate I do not need to order the stand alone plate. I just want to make sure I don't double purchase.
Perry
When I asked, they told me that the L-plate include the base-normal plate. And you can use only that one if you like to do so.
Look at the pics on the RRS website
Lars Johnsson wrote:
When I asked, they told me that the L-plate include the base-normal plate. And you can use only that one if you like to do so.
Look at the pics on the RRS website
Thanks Lar, I have and that is my conclusion. I think the base plate is the same as the standalone base plate. I think they should clarify that. They also should have an option for those who purchase the standalone base plate to purchase the L part of the plate.
I nearly ordered the stand alone plate and the entire L plate and that would have been foolish.
RRS write that you can use the L-plate like 3 different plates
" use base plate alone, or use L-plate with snug fit to side of camera, or use L-plate in its extended position"
That plate is just a completely different design from the one I got. I'm assuming that the vertical piece is a perfect fit into the slot in the base of the horizontal piece. I wonder if the slot is grooved. With the camera vertical and heavy glass on the front that's some stress on what looks like a narrow piece.
peter_n wrote:
That plate is just a completely different design from the one I got. I'm assuming that the vertical piece is a perfect fit into the slot in the base of the horizontal piece. I wonder if the slot is grooved. With the camera vertical and heavy glass on the front that's some stress on what looks like a narrow piece.
What do you mean by a "completely different design from the one you got" Did you buy one from RRS
With heavy glass you use a lens-plate or lens-foot instead of the camera-plate.
Lars Johnsson wrote:
What do you mean by a "completely different design from the one you got" Did you buy one from RRS
With heavy glass you use a lens-plate or lens-foot instead of the camera-plate.
Yes as in post #6 above - I got a BNEX7-L Set from RRS which is for a small camera and the way the two pieces connect is quite different from the model being discussed in this thread.
I take your point about lens plate/foot but I use a Nikkor 17-55/2.8 which is very end-heavy and there are no plates/feet for it (and it overpowers my Markins Q3T).
Ok I get it that you have another different L-plate from RRS.
Is it the 17-55/2,8 lens that weight 754 grams you have? If so there is no way it overpowers your Markin Q3 ballhead. I also own the Q3 and use it with much larger and a lot more heavy lenses. Markins say the maximum load for that head is 30kg. I don't trust maximum load capacity from the makers. But 754 grams against 30kg !!!
I'm not sure of the weight, but it's Nikon's 17-55 DX lens that I use on a Fuji S5. There's no collar or foot for the lens so I have to use the camera L-plate. When you have the friction set correctly for the combo on the Q3T, if you go off center by >=25° the ballhead starts to bind. It's the ballhead, I have two Q3T heads and they behave identically. Put the same combo on the Arca-Swiss Z1 and everything is as smooth as silk. It's annoying, but will soon be a non-problem as I'm selling all of my dSLR gear.