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Archive 2012 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.

  
 
cgardner
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p.2 #1 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


I repeat information because the same topics get discussed repeatedly. I don't cut and paste any text, just the links to photos I already have on line. I just type fast and am retired with lots of time to kill between rounds of golf — I played 27 holes today, 9 more than usual. How was your day?

If you've seen me cover the topic skip it. If the length of my posts bothers you, put me on your "Hide Me" list. As for the authority of the advice? I have used flash for 40 so I think everything I've suggested is factual and I know with certainty it works for me. Is there any other qualifications than that I need to qualify for offering advice here? Didn't see that in the rules. They just say, " Be courteous, and polite. Do not use profanity, viciously bash others, be rude, hateful, threatening, abusive, invasive, or otherwise violate any laws."

Instead of another of your editorials about my posting habits, please, if I have offered any factually incorrect technical information use the space to point out the factual errors. Beyond that could you accept the fact you aren't the moderator here? Fred is and he's never complained about my posting habits.



Mar 08, 2012 at 12:54 AM
brett maxwell
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p.2 #2 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


cgardner wrote:
put me on your "Hide Me" list.


I forgot about that feature, thanks! Most useful thing I've learned on this board in a long time



Mar 08, 2012 at 01:05 AM
Peter Figen
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p.2 #3 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


Chuck - The original question in the very first sentence was about how bad on camera flash looked. As I pointed out, it's not really the position of the flash, but the size of the light source. You, on the other hand, have posted a bunch examples showing exactly why on camera flash, or even small portable hot-shoe flashes look so horrible most of the time. So, while some of what you say might have some merit, your examples are nothing that anyone should be aiming for in terms of light quality. Being over-concerned with fitting the image in the range of the sensor has left you missing the forest for the trees. And while there are no specific rules about posting the same thing over and over, if you're going to do it in a manner that is so close to cut and paste that most people can't tell the difference, you might try a more varied approach and maybe reworking some of your examples. And, by the way, even though I am a working professional, I rarely shoot professional models these days. It's mostly real people and most of them musicians, which is a whole lot more difficult that it looks. Bigger egos and more self conscience than models or actors any day. It's all about the light and not necessarily about being perfect with technique. You have to never lose sight of the emotion and the story you're telling. That's the best piece of advice.


Mar 08, 2012 at 01:30 AM
Bruce Sawle
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p.2 #4 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


I prefer off camera flash or reflectors but when I need it in a pinch i have no problems using it on camera. If done right you can't tell. This photo was shot with the 24 f1.4 wide open with the flash on camera dialed down and feathered a bit.



_BSX8886_2_redo by Bruce Sawle, on Flickr



Mar 08, 2012 at 01:46 AM
Peter Figen
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p.2 #5 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


Great example Bruce - both of using the flash, and the use of a wide angle for portraiture. It doesn't even look like on camera flash, and while it doesn't fit Chuck's definition of fitting the scene to the sensor, it's a great shot nevertheless. Teaching examples are better when you look at them and they make you want to go make images like those. Nice bridge shots on your website too, btw.


Mar 08, 2012 at 02:53 AM
cgardner
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p.2 #6 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


Peter Figen wrote:
Chuck - The original question in the very first sentence was about how bad on camera flash looked. As I pointed out, it's not really the position of the flash, but the size of the light source.


I start with the premise that we shouldn't use "good" or "bad" as measurement terms. Instead the question should be whether the lighting, however it is created looks natural or not.

When someone says, "Flash looks bad" I'd ask, "Compared to what?" to which they'd reply, "The natural light." So as I reframe the question it becomes one of: Why doesn't flash used outdoors look like natural light?

What characteristics define natural outdoors? 1) It comes from overhead, 2) it has direct modeling "key" and indirect "fill" components, and 3) our eyes have adapted (via evolution) to handle the tonal range created by the ratio of sun vs. sky in full color. We wound up on the top of the food chain in large part because our vision evolved that way.

What characteristics make flash look more natural outdoors or indoors? 1) It comes from overhead, 2) it has direct modeling "key" and indirect "fill" components, and 3) the lighting ratio created by key and fill (considering all components) fits the scene to the range of the recording device similar to how the brain perceives the scene in person.

Photography is engineered to mimic how we perceive the world around us: in color with a full tonal range. What controls the rendering of the tonal range is lighting ratio: key:fill. What makes the rendered content seem natural or not is largely the angle of the key and accent (back) lighting.

Source size is an important variable. But if you put one big SB on a flash at eye level it will kill the modeling of the natural light just as flash in the hot shoe in portrait mode does. The benefit gained from the larger modifier will be minimizing the specular highlights of the flash on the skin and making them bigger on shiny surfaces like the eye balls. Size of modifier will make the light look "better" in comparison to the smaller speedlights use the same way (the original premise) but it will not make the lighting look more natural (how I've reframed the question).

Assuming a larger source is used, how do we make it loo more natural? Raise it so it hits the face at the same angle as natural light. Natural light has many angles, as I tried to show in my snow head examples:

If wanting the flash to look like natural lighting at mid-day the photographer would want to place the flash centered on the face with catchlights at 12 0'clock — what is called "butterfly" lighting.

If wanting the flash to look like natural lighting in the morning or afternoon the photographer would want to place the flash 45° above and 45° to the side of nose.

That snow head didn't wind up facing the direct that created those pattern by accident. We had a huge snow one year the day before the winter solstice and I oriented it for centered "butterfly" lighting at noon, knowing it that would also "short" light the face in the morning and afternoon.

If the reader can't connect the dots between those examples and the cause and effect that makes the angle of light look natural on a real face when any source is use they aren't very intuitive. But that being the case if they took a face outdoors in morning, noon and afternoon and faced it south (in the northern hemisphere) they would see the same cause and effect with the sunlight on the face. If they turn the subject around at the same times of day they will see how the position of the sun relative to the back of subject's body affects the lighting pattern on the face from the brightest part of the sky....

When sun is at the back of a subject outdoors and they raise their chin and look up (to get light in the eyes) there will be a very "good" natural butterfly pattern on the face from just the skylight because the subject winds up looking directly up int at the brightest part of the skylight.

When flash is added centered and over the head of the subject so it hits at the same angle it will also look natural. How "good" it looks will depend, in part, on the size of the source and the distance it is from the face (apparent size). So you aren't wrong that size matters, but it's just one variable in making lighting with flash look both "good" and "natural", which when you go back to the question of what makes speedlight flash look "bad is actually seen to be the same thing.

Speed light flash in the hot shoe looks bad for two reasons:
1) It is so small it creates unnatural specular highlights
2) It is so low it puts them unnaturally low on the face and creates no shadow clues.

The solution to #1 is use a bigger source. The problem doing that with speedlights is power. That's why photographers who make their living with a camera drag studio lights, inverters and sometimes generators out on location in order to power large modifiers. I don't do photography for a living and thus am not motivated to take a van load of studio gear outdoors to take portraits. I get by with speedlights the best I can, and yes my examples do suffer from that fact. Again if the reader can't see past the inadequacies of the tools in the examples to see and underlying cause and effect they aren't very intuitive and need to try the same thing with their better tools to validate the concept in their own mind.

But perhaps what isn't obvious here is that I don't try to do any serious any formal portraits outdoors with speedlights, only candid and action shots, because I know my lighting tools are not optimal. On the occasions I use outdoor light for more "serious" portraits I find a spot where the subject will facing north in open shade like a garage doorway, porch or shade from a stand of tall pine tree where I can expose for the natural light on the faces without blowing the sunny highlights by 2-3 stops. Why? Because I eliminate the sunny highlights by selecting a location without any where the entire scene range — face, clothing and background — fit the range of my camera sensor, eliminating the need for any flash.

As I see it on a technical and creative level the decision to use flash, or not is a function of:

1) Does the natural light contrast fit the range of the sensor? (technical)
2) Do you want a full tonal range or not (creative)

On an overcast day when the contrast of the natural light is equal to the DR of the camera sensor no flash is need to fit scene-to-sensor. If still using B&W film you can get by quite well with no flash and get a full tonal range even on a sunny day because the DR of the film is almost twice that of film (with proper development).

If blown highlights and blocked (no detail) shadows are OK given the creative goals for a particular shot it is also possible to shoot without any flash (the premise of the OP's argument) and do as I do when not using flash and not wanting blown highlights: find a location in open shade where there isn't any direct sunlight.

If part of your "creative" vision and goal for a particular shot includes recording a full range of tone in the image but the scene range exceeds the technical limit of the sensor to record it with detail that's when you need to know how to use flash to make the lighting look "good" by using as large of a source and flash power to drive it as you are willing to shlep up a mountain and the knowledge of where to place it relative to the face to make it look natural. .

If you make your living doing portraiture outdoor in sunlight you'll want to use the tools appropriate for that task: a pair of studio mono lights with large modifers powered by battery/inverter or generator.

If you don't make your living from photography and don't want to spend for that type of gear (or in my case bother to haul it outside) then the suggestions I make about how to use your speedlights more effectively when faced with sunny conditions and a creative desire not to blow the highlights my advice would apply. It will work for you no better than my examples if you use similar tools, but not not any worse their. The same techniques with better tools (i.e. studio flash with big modifiers) will work even better.

But as mentioned the "best" light is usually found in the open shade where it isn't necessary to battle the sun with flash and sometimes the best strategy is to avoid a confrontation by finding a better location where scene will fit sensor without flash.



Mar 08, 2012 at 08:22 AM
RustyBug
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p.2 #7 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


Nice example.

If you take an incident reading of a subject (or test subject) on the "direct lit" side and again on the "overhead sky lit" (i.e. shadow), you'll see that it is typically around 2.5 stops delta during EV15 (Sunny 16) conditions. As you move toward golden hour lighting (am or pm), EV15 reduces to EV14 / EV13, etc. and the delta reduces somewhat from 2.5 stops (toward more evenly balanced) from front to back as the strength of the "direct light" diminishes more than the indirect overhead sky. In those conditions, you might want to change how much fill you need to add.

Also, the use of the fill flash can help change the "quality" of the light from a scenario where the direct lit areas are receiving the more contrasty specular light, and the overhead lit areas are receiving diffuse light only. Part of the problem with the "on camera" flash look is that the small specular flash is ususally too much contrast.

By dialing it back (or diffusing it), it also keeps it from "telling on itself" by not overpowering the the diffuse overhead sky lighting, but rather blending with it. It is usually that contrast 'mismatch' that makes on camera flash "tell on itself" in addition to the exposure variance.


Bruce Sawle wrote:
I prefer off camera flash or reflectors but when I need it in a pinch i have no problems using it on camera. If done right you can't tell. This photo was shot with the 24 f1.4 wide open with the flash on camera dialed down and feathered a bit.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7154/6807649797_813d4df114_b.jpg
_BSX8886_2_redo by Bruce Sawle, on Flickr


1.4 @ Sunny 16 ... with flash ... @ what shutter. Assuming 100 ISO, the 7 stops from 16 to 1.4 would mean a shutter @ 7 stops faster than 100 to 12,800. Did I miss something ?? Even if it was 1 or 2 EV below Sunny 16, that would still be a shutter @ 6400 or 3200.

Edited on Mar 08, 2012 at 09:49 AM · View previous versions



Mar 08, 2012 at 08:44 AM
dmacmillan
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p.2 #8 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


cgardner wrote:
I'm not a working pro Peter so I don't have a wide variety of great looking models in shots to use as examples.

Just to clarify...

Guys like Peter get to photograph a wide variety of great looking models because they are excellent photographers, they are not excellent photographers because they get to photograph a wide variety of great looking models.



Mar 08, 2012 at 09:19 AM
Mike Mahoney
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p.2 #9 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


Exposure + comp and / or reflector is a much more natural look than fill flash and that's what a growing number of clients want.

But off camera flash or strobes in the right hands can produce a nice look with the added advantage of variety .. you can control the lighting much more than you can with exposure comp or reflectors. As much as I like that overexposed background look it is just one look and people want variety.

But on camera fill flash is most often simply revolting .. even when expertly applied



Mar 08, 2012 at 09:20 AM
Mr Kris
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p.2 #10 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


(just to start out- like 5 other posts came through while I was typing this haha!)

Hey Chuck,

I fully understand the concept of how the sun renders shadows, and balancing fill vs. key. The reason I said that your first post had good info, but was not relevant to this thread, is because you only discussed flash as a key light. The topic of this thread is specifically flash as fill.

Your next post responding to me started to get to some relevant info, but again, wasn't totally relevant for fill flash. You started to get toward the subject-
cgardner wrote:
Is the flash in the second shot automatically "fill flash" because I moved outside and it's hitting the shaded side of the head? That's how photographers generically refer to flash added outdoors, but in terms of role and cause and effect it is "key" light because it is modeling the face with highlights. Fill doesn't model a face the "key" light does. The fill in the outdoor shot came from the natural ambient light.

Indoors and out raising the flash off axis vertically on the bracket in changed it from flat "fill" into a directional "key" light.


But you didn't tie it all the way back to the topic at hand. The topic, again, is fill flash. You started hinting toward the real problem when you said
cgardner wrote:
That's how photographers generically refer to flash added outdoors, but in terms of role and cause and effect it is "key" light because it is modeling the face with highlights.


Perhaps what the original poster (correct me if I'm wrong, Drewski!) has observed is probably that outdoor "fill flash" looks bad when the fill flash ceases to become a fill, and instead becomes the key light. It looked like you were beginning to allude to this, but didn't directly tie it back here.

You also wrote-
cgardner wrote:
NEAR AXIS FILL WILL KILL NATURAL MODELING


I think we need to flesh out that thought. Let's just assume that we're using the term fill "properly" here. A fill light is used to reduce shadow contrast, and/or to reveal detail that would otherwise be in shadow. Near axis "fill" will certainly reduce the effects of natural modeling. Which is what we want, right? Natural modeling looks.... natural .... but as you said, isn't necessarily always flattering. So we use a fill light to reduce the contrast of the shadows in the eye sockets, corners of the lips, maybe under the cheekbones depending on facial structure, etc.

cgardner wrote:
You never want to use a single flash for "fill" you instead want to make the sun your "hair light", the skylight your fill, and raise the flash above the head as your frontal "key" light.


Again, here, it's hard to tell because "fill" is in quotes. I would disagree with this statement if fill really means fill. Also I think in photography, never say never applies always

I think you have a lot of good info to share, but I think you would be even more helpful if you selected out directly relevant info to particular threads. I could probably summarize your thoughts into a few key points that are applicable here-

1. The sun and the sky are above us, and therefore render shadows downwards (at a 45 degree-ish angle, depending on time of day). This looks "natural" to us.
2. If you add in a light source that *totally* destroys these rendered shadows, then the resulting picture will look unnatural.
3. And my point- if you add in a light source that is a fill, to decrease shadow contrast but not *completely* eliminate it, it can add to the overall impact of an image and/or make the light more flattering.

I also totally disagree with this statement:
cgardner wrote:
Photography is engineered to mimic how we perceive the world around us


And maybe that's really the root of this; you're viewing photography as an engineering task to be solved, and most of the rest of us are viewing it as art. So we like words like good and bad, vs natural or unnatural. I fully agree with you that if your goal is to mimic natural light, high and pointed down is the way to go. But for most of us, we're trying to enhance light. We'll work with it, and try to complement it, but we want to make it better- not just replicate it.



Mar 08, 2012 at 09:39 AM
RustyBug
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p.2 #11 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


Guys like me get to photograph great looking models because I pay them great amounts of money.

Just kidding.



Mar 08, 2012 at 09:40 AM
Mr Kris
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p.2 #12 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


Hey Rusty,

I have a guess on Bruce's pic: high speed sync and an ND filter. Or just let it overexpose and then compensate in post.

How close am I Bruce?



Mar 08, 2012 at 10:01 AM
RustyBug
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p.2 #13 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


Yes, I thought @ HSS and ND (or polarizer) ... both of which would be "atypical" for most folks faced with the OP scenario in general.


Mar 08, 2012 at 10:09 AM
benee
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p.2 #14 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


Bruce - nice example. I try not to use on-camera flash, but in the right circumstances, and dialing down to - 1 1/3 or so, you can get nice results as shown by your example. The trick is that the flash shouldn't look obvious. Just a little "kiss" of light.


Mar 08, 2012 at 10:17 AM
Bruce Sawle
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p.2 #15 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


RustyBug wrote:
Nice example.

If you take an incident reading of a subject (or test subject) on the "direct lit" side and again on the "overhead sky lit" (i.e. shadow), you'll see that it is typically around 2.5 stops delta during EV15 (Sunny 16) conditions. As you move toward golden hour lighting (am or pm), EV15 reduces to EV14 / EV13, etc. and the delta reduces somewhat from 2.5 stops (toward more evenly balanced) from front to back as the strength of the "direct light" diminishes more than the indirect overhead sky. In those conditions, you might want to change how much fill
...Show more

Here is the exif from the photo. No special tricks. This was not a straight out of camera there was some PP done. But overall the exposure was close.

Camera Nikon D3X
Exposure 1/8000 sec
Aperture f/1.4
Focal Length 24 mm
ISO Speed 100
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Flash On, Return detected




Mar 08, 2012 at 10:36 AM
williamkazak
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p.2 #16 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


DubiousDrewski wrote:
Now, I'm not against using flash outdoors. In fact I believe the best photos use a combination of natural and supplemented flash. But this mounted-on-camera fill flash thing has got to die!
Anyone agree or disagree with me?

Strongly disagree. You are blowing out the backgrounds.



Mar 08, 2012 at 12:07 PM
dmacmillan
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p.2 #17 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


DubiousDrewski wrote:
Now, I'm not against using flash outdoors. In fact I believe the best photos use a combination of natural and supplemented flash. But this mounted-on-camera fill flash thing has got to die!

Anyone agree or disagree with me?

Well I don't know. It has a certain kitschy charm, kind of like watching "Plan 9 From Outer Space".



Mar 08, 2012 at 12:31 PM
Mr Kris
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p.2 #18 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


williamkazak wrote:
Strongly disagree. You are blowing out the backgrounds.


Well, let me ask this: Why is the background important? I think along the same lines as before, this is a technical reason, totally ignoring aesthetic or image content. It's not enough to say that the background is blown out- more importantly, is why do you want it not to be blown out?

Many photographers go to considerable lengths to eliminate distracting backgrounds. We use fast lenses to do this, or use sharp lighting falloff.... or in this case, maybe the opposite of that. The background is not important in this image, so personally, I don't care that it's blown out.

Also, emotionally... think about actually looking into a sunset at a person. Do you see a fully detailed sky and the person at the same time? Or is it so bright, that you usually have to squint and put your hand up to block some glare?

The picture feels right to me as is.



Mar 08, 2012 at 12:32 PM
williamkazak
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p.2 #19 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


Bruce, why are you shooting outdoors at F1.4? What was the situation?


Mar 08, 2012 at 12:47 PM
williamkazak
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p.2 #20 · Fill Flash for Outdoors. Why? It looks bad.


Really getting tired of the disrespectful comments at FM. If you don't like a thread, then don't read it.


Mar 08, 2012 at 12:48 PM
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