Of course the OP is using a 5dII... but the camera wireless flash control communication from the 7D and the 60D has the ability to fire/communicate from the popup flash just before the slaves are triggered so that the popup flash contributes nothing to the exposure. ...you can chose this option or you can choose to let the popup contribute as well to the exposure in the menu settings. So you really don't need the shield unless you are worried about upsetting your subject with a flash coming from your camera.
That's what they say, but I've found it not to be true in actual practice. The onboard does contribute to exposure and will leave a pinprick even when it is set not to contribute.
GC5 wrote:
That's what they say, but I've found it not to be true in actual practice. The onboard does contribute to exposure and will leave a pinprick even when it is set not to contribute.
Wow I stand corrected! I had to check and see in the mirror if the camera was capturing the popup in the exposure and yes it is! I went back to a head shoot session I did with a 85mm with optical slave firing and can see the catch of the popup if I zoom way in. It is so small but it is there.
kurtis miller wrote:
...I had to check and see in the mirror if the camera was capturing the popup in the exposure and yes it is! I went back to a head shoot session I did with a 85mm with optical slave firing and can see the catch of the popup if I zoom way in. It is so small but it is there.
Yep. That's because the final command pulse of the ETTL sequence occurs just as the shutter is opening. It's not always noticeable, but if there are reflective objects in the scene, or if you're shooting up close, it can happen.
csebasti wrote:
I'm looking into buying a flash for personal home use. My wife and I have our first kid on the way, and this will mainly be used for pictures of the new baby indoors. I'm trying to decide between the 430EX II and the 580EX II (or possibly third party). Mainly the only added benefit I personally would get out of the 580 would be higher power. I would not use the other features.
I think the power difference between the 580 and 430 ends up only being about 1/3 of a stop over maximum of the 430, so you're not really gaining that much with the 580.
tandlh wrote:
I have the 430 EX and it's plenty powerful for home use. Now for the advice part: Learn to use manual mode on your camera, set the exposure for the background of the house (modify ISO, aperture, and shutter speed to taste), use the flash on ETTL, shoot, and then use FEC to bring up or down the flash as you see fit.
If you try to use AV as your camera mode with flash you may be frustrated, plenty of threads here and on the lighting forum for that.
In my experience, given a white ceiling, the best way to use an on-camera flash indoors is to bounce it off the ceiling. You can get nice even illumination that covers the whole room if it is a small home room, and you get great diffuse light without harsh shadows.
Obvious and standard flash use I'm talking about here, but just in case OP doesn't know it. You can mess with head tilt and direction to optimize it, but as far as exposure goes it is often best to just eliminate ambient light by setting your exposure to 1/200th, f/8, ISO 100 (usually does the trick in interior incandescent light).
csebasti wrote:
I currently have a set of 4 Energizer and a set of 4 Panasonic Ni-MH rechargeables. Will the Eneloops be much better? And if so, do I need a different charger for them, or can I throw them in my Panasonic charger? I'll have to check out Costco this weekend.
I have 32 Energizer AA and 16 Eneloops. I'm only buying Eneloops from here on. I use regular cheap(ish) 8 gang chargers (though NOT the fast charges - they are specifically not recommended if you want to preserve the recharge life).
I was just reading something (I can't recall where) recently about chargers, and the writer mentioned that most cheap chargers just apply the same charge to all batteries, but that the better ones use seperate circuits for each battery position. The advantage is that since all the batteries won't have drained to the same level the charger will stop charging one that gets fully charged but keep charging the one(s) that aren't.
Now I just need to try to find the article again so I can recall the brand and model he recommended.
BrianO wrote:
I was just reading something (I can't recall where) recently about chargers, and the writer mentioned that most cheap chargers just apply the same charge to all batteries, but that the better ones use seperate circuits for each battery position. The advantage is that since all the batteries won't have drained to the same level the charger will stop charging one that gets fully charged but keep charging the one(s) that aren't.
Now I just need to try to find the article again so I can recall the brand and model he recommended.
The good news is I found one that is unique to each channel and was still cheap(ish) !!
mfreardon wrote:
Thanks for the recommendation. I hadn't really thought about the discharging. I guess it would suck to always grab the flash and find that hte batteries had discharged.
Someone else also recommended the flip-it. I'll have to look into that. Seems like a nice simple useful add-on.
kurtis miller wrote:
I have 2 430exIIs that I use with the cowboy studio triggers with good results. The way I use them (always on manual power control) I could have gone cheaper and bought Yongnuo Speedlights, but it is nice to be able to just slap the 430exII on the hotshoe and turn it to ettl and fire away.
Gib Robinson wrote:
I found Syl Arena's book "Speedliter's Handbook - Learning to Craft Light with Canon Speedlites" VERY useful. It goes through virtually all the issues addressed in this thoughtful thread -- batteries, flashes, modifiers, stands, cords, etc. etc. My recommendation would be to get that book and let it guide you.
Arena does NOT recommend the ST-2, and neither do I. I own one along with the Pocket Wizards that work with Canon flashes. The Pocket Wizards are wonderful but for what you want to do, a short cord and a longer cord should be just fine.
For a short cord, I use this on which allows you to use two flashes. Even if you don't plan to buy or use two flashes right now, it will give you that option later.
Pearstone
Universal Duo TTL Off-Camera Flash Cord - 3' (0.9 m)
Coiled DesignUse Your On-Shoe Flash Off-CameraAllows Full TTL FunctioningUse with Two Flashes in Manual ModeCreate Unusual Lighting Effects
B&H # PEOCDU3Mfr # OCD-U3
In Stock
Arena's book also got me using a longer cord without coils: Interfit NSTR137 Multi-Fit TTL Cord for Nikon/Canon/Fuji Cameras (32'/10m). The longer cord will allow you to set you a flash on a tripod or stand and move around while you photograph.
As for flashes, Arena's book looks at all the Canon possibilities and one or two cheaper third-party options. A good used 580EX would be my recommendation but Arena's discussion will lay out the plusses and minuses. Dollar-for-Dollar, I think Arena's book would be your best initial investment.
--Gib
P.S. Modifiers (diffusers) are a wonderful topic to explore and Arena does a good job. If you do use a long cord and a stand you can use somewhat larger diffusers that don't work well on camera. Soft light has big advantages. ...Show more →
Thanks for hte recommendations. Sounds like Arena's book is highly regarded. I checked it out on Amazon yesterday, and hit defintely gets great reviews. I think that will be my next purchase, then from there I'll decide what other assescories I'd like.
I'm leaning toward picking up a cheap wireless trigger rahter than going for a long cord for off camera, even though I'll loose E-TTL that way. But I'd rather not be draggin the cord around.
h00ligan wrote:
I thought this at first, but the inability to swivel all the way around really creates bouncing issues when surfaces are uneven or specific. I'd spend the money for the higher end flash, as you bounce more you will appreciate the full swivel.
This came to my attention after reading the speed lighters handbook and another book on portrait and wedding photography. I constantly wanted to fire over my right shoulder at an event and couldn't.
Thanks for the tip. I was wondering about the partial swivel of the 430 vs the full swivel of the 580. Not having ever used a flash, I didn;t see why it would be a big deal. I already ordered the 430. I can always switch later if I find I need the full swivel.
New to flash also. I just ordered a 430 II and the CS set. The CS trigger should come in Friday. After I try them out I let you know what I think.
Ansley
csebasti wrote:
Thanks again to everyone for all the great advise. I ended up ordering the 430EX II last night. I think I'll start playing around with it, and look into the books mentioned here first, then start working on stting myself up for off camera flash.
Those Cowboy Studios triggers look tempting for a cheap method of triggering off camera...
BrianO wrote:
I was just reading something (I can't recall where) recently about chargers, and the writer mentioned that...the better ones use seperate circuits for each battery position. ...Now I just need to try to find the article again so I can recall the brand and model he recommended.
Gib Robinson wrote:
The "smart charger" most often recommended is this one: Maha Powerex MH-C801D Eight Cell 1-Hr PRO AA/AAA Charger by Powerex
csebasti wrote:
I was wondering about the partial swivel of the 430 vs the full swivel of the 580. Not having ever used a flash, I didn;t see why it would be a big deal. I already ordered the 430. I can always switch later if I find I need the full swivel.
It all depends on where you want to bounce from. Bouncing from a wall slightly behind you -where you can't swivel to- is a no-go. Can be annoying. Especially when things are going fast. In the end it is just something you'll get used to and you'll learn to anticipate in advance.
in the home with a baby you can bounce off walls and ceiling and get great shots.. I don't think you even need to worry about getting the flash off the camera just yet. Just use the swivel and bounce.. Umbrellas are great with baby's b/c they don't really move and you can get great soft light images..
Does the 5dII have the wireless flash controller like the 7d and 60d? In the house the flash doesn't have to be facing the camera for the onboard to trip the external flash, light bounces all over and trips the external even if it is face away from camera.
as with most questions the best answer is it depends. I've been all over place with flashes. Manual, off camera remote vivitar 283 and 285s to alien bee to canon wireless ettl. Unfortuenatly the 5dII does not have flash controller built in like the 7d.
I currently have 580mk1, 430mk1, 270 mkii
i just got the 270 today so not much use with that
Flash power on camera even 430 a full pop is a lot of light. much better to use a little flash and the high iso abilities of the 5dmkii drag shutter and a little flash looks a lot better than blasting away. i'm sure you know that though.
since 5d has no built in flash anything can help (for just a little bit of fill)
i was playing with the 270 tonight using a g12 with a 580 just to trigger the 270 off camera i was impressed with what that did.
so some suggestions............
270 low budget (yes) light weight (yes) options (no) slave (a) only
430 not as low budget, heavier, more options slave groups (a:b:c)
580 $$$$, heavy , but all options
option 4 and the one i would say would be the most fun, by fun i mean the opportunity to experiment, I'd suggest a 270 or 430 and st-e2. works on camera, can add a stofen and bounce, and can get off camera.
