Hi from Texas,

A while back I read something about approaching modelling agencies to photograph models for specific tasks, e.g. wedding or whatever, but for use in one's portfolio. If I remember correctly, a particular word was used which indicated it wasn't for a full price. Does anyone have any help in this regard?

Thanks,

John

Testing.

testing? Could you expand please? I haven't done this before and would like to approach an agency here in town.

a test shoot is done for newer models to get them acclimated to shooting as well as seeing how well they photograph.

You can also also TFP (Time for prints) to the model so she builds her portfolio while you get a model.

The process of working with an agency's model(s) without paying for them, but also not obtaining a commercial release, is usually referred to as "testing". It's how an agency develops portfolios for their "new faces" - they Polaroid them and make up quickie comp cards or one-sheets on a color photocopier, then photographers looking to create new portfolio material, or shoot editorials on spec, or just try out new ideas will go into the agency and look over what new faces are available for testing. As the photographer, you get to build a relationship with an agency and get portfolio material with agency-quality models, the agency and models get to build a portfolio for the new models until they start booking paid work. If an agency has a recently-signed model that they feel really good about and want to invest in (maybe a runway season is coming up quickly) they'll book paid tests with a photographer - the photographer still gets a lot of leeway in what gets shot and how, but the agency will have greater expectations of the shoot and will maybe a few hundred dollars to get two or three looks out of a couple hours of shooting.

Keep in mind that in all of this there's no model release exchanged, so the photographer has no ability to use the resulting images commercially. The agency will also expect to get a full proof-sheet and probably a handful of retouched images. And all of this is dependent on the agency's testing bookers reviewing your portfolio and liking what they see - if you can't turn out agency-quality work then they've got no use for you. And they'll largely want to see a real portfolio book in a sit-down meeting, not look at online portfolios.

Small regional agencies probably won't be as aware of or used to this process. This is how the big fashion agencies deal with things, whereas the little regional mom-and-pops expect the models to develop their portfolios entirely on their own.

Edited by shatterkiss on Jul 11, 2008 at 12:39 PM GMT

Brian Mullins wrote:
You can also also TFP (Time for prints) to the model so she builds her portfolio while you get a model.

Major agencies will actually laugh at you a little if you walk in talking about "TFP" - that's one of those things that marks the discrepancy between the internet modeling world and the real modeling world, much like how internet models have no awareness of standard processes like go-sees or maintaining an actual portfolio book.

Thanks very much. I appreciate your help. Simon you are wealth of information.

See, this is my situation. I want to improve my portfolio and would like to branch out and do other types of photograph including some weddings etc. Up until now I have been doing commercial shoots limited mainly to two clients and that is getting really old and I don't believe in keeping all my eggs in one basket.

However, to get good wedding engagements or other events, generally (at least I would) people like to see examples of previous work. I had thought of getting a few models to do some wedding shots, outdoor garment shots etc and using those to get work, fully realizing that I won't have commercial releases, which suits me just fine.

Any thoughts?

In Test shoots, what kind of contractual or written agreement allows you to use the images for your portfolio? Do you draft up a standard license agreement?

In an agency test shoot there probably won't be any paperwork exchanged whatsoever. But you will generally have the rights to use images in your printed portfolio without a release, as it doesn't constitute commercial usage. An online portfolio may be a different story. But unpaid agency tests are commonly done on a handshake, so the agencies are usually okay with test images ending up in your portfolios.

With non-agency tests, it's up to you and what your model is okay with. I drafted a non-commercial license agreement, which is basically a variation on my standard commercial model release but specifies no commercial usage. I almost never use it, though.

As for generating a wedding portfolio...your best bet is working as a second shooter on weddings. Most agency models can't use wedding-type images in their books unless they're structured as editorial content for bridal magazines or advertising. If that's your angle, just be prepared to invest in it, as you're going to need serious styling, dresses, locations, etc. and make sure that the agencies understand what your intent is when you approach them - you'll ruin your relationship by pulling models from a fashion agency and then coming back to them with bridal images without warning them in advance.

Shatterkiss, Thanks.

But then this begs a new question/story/scenario.... which I'm sure is very common.

... So let's say that an Ad Agency (Let's call them 'A') was hired by a big company (Let's call them 'C') to produce a small ad campaign. 'A' decides to utilize models from Modeling Agency (Let's call them 'M') and hire a photographer (Let's call him/her 'P') to accomplish the ad campaign.

I'm sure there is some contracts/paperwork exchanged between 'A' and 'M' particularly stating the usage of the models and the size of the campaign for 'C' And I'm sure 'P' will also draft up a license agreement/contract that also states usage and time frame for 'C' to use the photos. I'm also assuming that 'C' and 'A' will want exclusivity in the photos. After the ad agency designer has finished his job, what allows the photographer 'P' to use the finished product in his portfolio?

Holy crap, too many letters! I had to read that like 3 times.

It's really going to depend on the situation. Most clients are going to be fine with you putting work you've shot for them in your portfolio, as it's essentially free advertising for them. Some will be fine with it but with certain stipulations: when I shot for the music industry I had certain record labels or publicity firms stipulate that I couldn't publicly use images from a shoot in my portfolio or self-promos until after they went public with their own marketing materials. Most clients will be fine with a standard clause in whatever document you use to specify licensing of images that states that you're allowed to self-promotional use of the images regardless of any other licensing terms.

Chances are you'll want to use a finished tearsheet from a job like that, though, not one of your directly-output images, so you'd be obtaining that from the art director anyhoo.

Simon and all thanks for all the great info. It's always really great to get some insight from the people that know exactly what is going on out there.

I am in the same boat and this thread has totally enlighten me.

Thanks again
Ryan

My pleasure!

I wanted to reiterate one thing, something that Byron (bka20d) reminded me about yesterday in a PM - I'm mostly speaking from the perspective of working with major-market fashion agencies like you would find in NYC, LA, Miami, Chicago, London, Paris, Tokyo, Milan, etc. The situation may well be different in second-tier markets (places like Dallas, Houston, San Francisco, Seattle, Boston, Minneapolis that are either served by regional agencies or outposts of the majors) and will certainly be different in third-tier markets that don't have a national or international fashion/media community. Look at it this way: if you don't have the clients and you don't have the media, then you aren't going to have the agencies that serve them. You may have the modeling talent, but it's going to get scouted and exported to the markets where they'll actually be able to work.

My direct experience and what I've been told by models in tertiary markets implies that there just isn't the same culture of testing in those places, much like agencies aren't signing models and then developing their portfolios for them or collaboratively...they look for models with established portfolios (whereas a major agency will take girls based on a walk-in audition and Polaroids) who will be arranging their own testing and portfolio development.

In a NYC or LA an agency will have no problem filling your print and web portfolios with images from tests with their models, and they'll be doing the same with your images. Paper is rarely exchanged, even if they're hiring you for paid tests...it's more likely they'll just establish a standing rate with you and pick up the phone, "we've got five new girls that we need to test, can we send them over tomorrow? Invoice us the usual." I know that threads on this board are full of posts (some of them by me!) saying "get contracts, get it on paper, don't do anything on a handshake" but the reality is that lots of business is still done verbally and on handshakes. It can be nervewracking and awkward, but it is what it is. However, in places where models are being hired for hundreds instead of thousands of dollars, and the work is more likely local or things like live promotions and car shows, there's less incentive for an agency to have a testing booker on staff and be managing portfolio cultivation. I recently had an agency model in Houston tell me during a shoot that she had to fight with her agency just to get them to put her new images up on their website, let alone help her arrange tests.

If you're in one of those small, regional markets you might be better off using resources like OMP and Model Mayhem for your portfolio development or just sucking it up and paying a model a couple hundred bucks with the expectation of getting three or four new portfolio images out of a couple of different setups.

If you're planning on courting commercial clients you should really consider your own portfolio an investment in every way, from the packaging to the images it contains. It's the wrong place to go cheap.

Speaking of packaging portfolio for commercial clients... an agent has recently contacted me and wants to represent me. She has indicated that she would like me to put together a print portfolio to bring around to perspective clients.

Any recommendation on a binding co. or portfolio co.?

Lost Luggage portfolios always make a great impression but are a real investment. I'm currently using Pina Zingaro plexi books, which are a little cheaper. houseofportfolios.com is the standard for a lot of people - I'd recommend springing for having your name embossed on the cover as well.

Also, very few people keep only one book...the busy commercial shooters I've worked with often keep upwards of four or five. Especially if you're going to be working with a rep, keep in mind that more often than not your portfolio will sit on someone's desk for a few days or more, so only having one reduces your ability to show it around. My book once sat on the desk of an art director at VH1 for nearly a month and took four phone calls to get it back. Having that be my only book would have been debilitating.

If you want images to support a bridal or engagement portfolio I would suggest finding a really qualified hair and make-up team first. That is mandortory for good images and they would most likely have several girls they work with needing portfolio images. The hair and make-up people usually need new images also. The models you get from a agency ( unless you are known or have a really impressive portfolio) will be beginners anyway and most likely they are the same girls the hair stylist works on.

sorry for the OT, but what are the common sizes used for portfolios? Let's say I have a lot of 8x12 prints, would they be ok to use in a 9x12 book?

It depends on your book. For photographers, it's whatever you want. For independent models, it's whatever they want. For agency fashion models, it's usually 9x12 in the major markets. Personally, I'd avoid using prints that are smaller than the sleeves that contain them, assuming you're using a screwpost or binder book...I just think it looks sloppy. The only exception to that, in my mind, is tearsheets - they can come in any size, unless you scan and reprint them. I've also come to really not like the look of mounted prints in portfolios, and that's after years of having all my portfolio prints mounted. Now I'm mostly doing full-bleed borderless prints in sleeves, facing pages in screwpost books.

My portfolios are all 11x14. The models I've worked with are usually 9x12 or 8.5x11, as are the makeup artists and wardrobe stylists.

Thanks Shatterkiss.
Shooting with a D300, my pictures come out 8x12 :/

I shoot primarily with a D300 as well, but I still crop to 11x14 for myself, 9x12 or whatever for models, whatever for the web...you shoot and edit to fit your destination, not your camera.

thanks again shatterkiss
I enjoy your postings