After reading strobist link on DIY profoto globe modifier, here is my try and found very useful and I was able to get f/8 when I mounted the globe on Einstein and placed on my 2ed floor and get even light across.

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2012/04/home-depot-homebrew-of-643-profoto.html

Please provide your feedback of how the lighting on the hand made back drop which will be used on local event this weekend.

I was at the local HD yesterday and found the 8" acrylic globes. All of the same item number were slightly different from each other. I bought the one with the shortest neck. When I tried it on the Einstein it fit about 85%. So, I took out my Dremel and took the small lip on the outer edge of the neck off. You can now lift the Einstein by the globe the fit is so good.

I drilled 8 ventilation holes with a brand new 1/8" bit, then a 1/4" bit, then a 15/32 bit and the holes are perfectly smooth and unchipped. Just use very low pressure and do not force the bit.

Tomorrow I'll be shooting in a smallish room and need shadowless light due to a piece of machinery and a student. I'll post how it all works.

Finished the shoot today in a small room and the globe was excellent. Very soft diffused light bounced everywhere. The student was sitting in a geodesic dome (long story) type device and the globe produced no shadows of the bars on the face at all.

I'll be picking up another one for my other Einstein light...highly recommended.

bills - can you please share the pics from the shoot?

I'd like to post some images but since I was photographing children in a research lab setting there are some privacy issues. Sorry. For $12 and 30 minutes of time modifying it you won't be disappointed in the results.

Did that years ago with my WLs. Because of the character of the light, there's no reason to keep the modeling lamp turned on, which reduces the heat problem.

The globes look like they do their job very well, but why would you use them in a situation like this? There seems to be some decrease in illumination from the bottom of the frame to the top. Wouldn't it have been better to drop the strobes down on the stands, use a flagged plain or narrow angle reflector to avoid light bounce from coloured walls etc, and aim them at the ceiling between the strobes and the subject?

HelenB wrote:
The globes look like they do their job very well, but why would you use them in a situation like this?


+1. In my experience, globes (or lanterns) aren't suiting well for photography. They have their place in movie/cine, where the subject and the frame aren't "fixed" and the camera is panning a wide area.

Even then we tend to flag them quite a lot - I rarely use my various Chinese lanterns without some part of them being skirted.

I used the globes again today while photographing in a small office and it certainly provided the even wash of light I needed. I tried softboxes, grids, and reflectors and was not getting the evenness of light I needed. I was glad I had 2 globes with me.

I could not find any other modifier that will give even lighting across 20X20 area other than this globe modifier.

what about an 86" plm?

jzucker wrote:
what about an 86" plm?
I do not have 86" PLM, with 2 X 60" PLM I am unable to get even light in 20X20 room.