This is a very lens-specific question, so I'll put it here in the Canon forum first; I'm the well-pleased owner of a new Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II lens (couldn't resist that $230 rebate), and I will be getting a good polarizing filter for it soon, since my main subject will be landscapes (with ULTIMATE depth-of-field!).

My question, to those with the experience, is, do I need a "thin-mount" filter to avoid wide-open vignetting on the FF 5DII? I anticipate stopping down for the vast majority of my use, but I'd like to know that I can use it at 3.5 without worrying about blackened corners. I have (and use often) a good CP, but it's 77mm, and using a step-up ring (to the 82mm of the 24 TS-E) would be...counter-productive, let's say ...

Thanks...

I just got a TS-E 24mm as well, and I'll be getting a 9 stop ND filter for it first, rather than a circular polarizer. I have searched through the forum and the people who have used filters on the TS-E 24 say that the normal filter does not vignette until you get to extreme shift.

A normal width polarizing filter works fine, however you will get an uneven polarized sky @24mm. It will be an even bigger problem when tilting your lens. To each their own, I personally would concentrate on Grads and ND filters and shoot full manual with this lens.

I just got this lens too....so I can't comment specifically. But there ARE uses for a polarizing filter on UWA lenses. I do waterfall photography and I use polarizers to remove reflections and glare from foliage, rocks, water, etc. My shots typically don't have sky in them and I have no issues with any noticeable uneven polarization.

Shots that contain the sky can be a challenge though, but in portrait orientation you can get an even sky if you are shooting at the right angle (and sometimes even in landscape orientation.)

-Tim

We have the 24 TS-E + a 5D2 at uni. From what I've seen so far using it, it handles filters fine, certainly as well as my 24 PC-E does; to see noticeable vignetting you have to be on max shift and even then it's no worse than many primes vignette wide open without filters.

The CPs work as they do on any other 24mm - if you have lots of sky, there'll be an uneven (though predictable) effect on the image which may or may not be desirable.

If you haven't used a T/S lens before, be aware that the camera metering is...unreliable...once you shift or tilt, so you'll need to meter before movements if using the on camera meter for exposure.

Thanks for all the prompt & knowledgeable replies, folks (even from Fred hisself! )...I love this forum, and this is why...

Good, then, I can get a regular-thickness CP and still use the regular lens cap; I suppose that was really the only difference between the two choices...as for ND filters, I shoot a lot of waterfalls, too, and often use a variable-adjustable-type density filter (Singh-Ray calls theirs a "Vari-ND", but there are others, too), but I'll have to hold off on that purchase until holiday expenses, income taxes, and all those children's school-related mid-year fees are finished off...

I know about holders and all those 4x6 ND and GND filters, but, honestly, folks, that was one thing I was SO glad to leave behind when I went from film to digital, and discovered photoshop layers and HDR... I think I'm going to be glad I kept all that stuff, if I can only locate it...

I'm finding a bit of a learning curve with this new lens, even more than with a supertelephoto, but it's been (being) a fun challenge; I have rarely shot so much completely manually since the invention of autofocus!

I have a slim Singh-Ray Vari-ND (82mm), but there's no (easy) way to get polarization effect with the Vari-ND on FF with UWA lenses. So I rarely use it. I just go with a conventional screw in ND and my Singh-Ray LB polarizer (or Zeiss as I just got one for free through a promotion.)

Been dabbling with GND/polarizer on a Lee setup (with Singh-Ray filters), but unless I need the GND the screw in still seems easier to me.

-Tim