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Robin Usagani Registered: Oct 26, 2010 Total Posts: 2480 Country: United States |
I just had this photo session. http://blog.usagani.com/2011/12/bridget-and-rob-winter-family-photos-at.html |
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AuntiPode Registered: Aug 05, 2008 Total Posts: 5964 Country: New Zealand |
It tells a great story and serves as a sweet memento. Not every image must be an award winner to be worthwhile. |
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RustyBug Registered: Feb 02, 2009 Total Posts: 9572 Country: United States |
Nice capture ... definitely not trash. |
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AuntiPode Registered: Aug 05, 2008 Total Posts: 5964 Country: New Zealand |
Here's a version with USM at 16. 60, 0 applied to the whole image to bump mid-tone contrast and some smart sharpen applied to just the subject: |
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Robin Usagani Registered: Oct 26, 2010 Total Posts: 2480 Country: United States |
Hey.. nice edits all. I included it to what I delivered. This is the only one that is soft. |
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sbeme Registered: Dec 23, 2003 Total Posts: 14935 Country: United States |
Yeah, nice edits. |
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cgardner Registered: Nov 18, 2002 Total Posts: 9336 Country: United States |
It's a great candid capture.. What I did below is to dupe the background layer, sharpen the copy, then selectively blend it it only on the foreground subject... ![]() Perceptually what creates the emotional reaction in a portrait are the facial clues around the eyes and mouth. When editing portraits I use an action which creates duplicate surface blur, high pass sharpen, and USM layers with masks. On studio portrait I'll blur everything except the mouth and eyes, then the high pass mask in the areas where I want to add back texture and detail. Then I'll open the USM layer mask in any areas like the eye and lip catchlights where I want a harder more specular appearance. I used the same action here, but since the foreground was already soft from being OOF I didn't have to blur it first |
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Robin Usagani Registered: Oct 26, 2010 Total Posts: 2480 Country: United States |
nice edit cgardner. I almost never sharpen my photos.. maybe I should. I usually just trash them if it is not sharp SOOC. |
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cgardner Registered: Nov 18, 2002 Total Posts: 9336 Country: United States |
Given the nature of the RGB matrix on the sensor and how the camera interprets it into RGB pixels on a monitor some amount of USM is needed on any digital image simply to make the reproduction on screen and print match the impression of the scene content seen by eye. |
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RustyBug Registered: Feb 02, 2009 Total Posts: 9572 Country: United States |
+1 @ ooc can only achieve very good/mediocrity at it's best. |
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Robin Usagani Registered: Oct 26, 2010 Total Posts: 2480 Country: United States |
Ok, here is one that I consider sharp. BTW, what is USM? ![]() Here is high resolution link http://usagani.com/img/s11/v30/p906532958.jpg cgardner wrote: Given the nature of the RGB matrix on the sensor and how the camera interprets it into RGB pixels on a monitor some amount of USM is needed on any digital image simply to make the reproduction on screen and print match the impression of the scene content seen by eye. The first thing to fall victim to the image processing are the specular highlights. This is seen in photos of animals with fur and feathers which get their 3D texture visually from the specular highlights of direct sunlight or non-diffused artificial reflecting off the tiny flat facets of the hairs and feathers. An OOC shot will render them flat and matted. USM will restore them to something closer to what is seen in person. Often in shots of animals or water sparkling on a river scene I will dupe the photo and apply overall sharpening to the base layer, then oversharpen the top layer, blending it the additional "sparkle" the USM creates selectively where I want to emphasize 3D texture. Post what you consider a sharp OOC shot and I'll edit it to show you the difference with the judicious application of USM. |
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RustyBug Registered: Feb 02, 2009 Total Posts: 9572 Country: United States |
USM = UnSharpen Mask |
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cgardner Registered: Nov 18, 2002 Total Posts: 9336 Country: United States |
The term "unsharp masking" (USM) originated back in the days when color separations where done on process cameras and and later on drum scanners. Been there, done that, in the days before Photoshop. ![]() ![]() RustyBug has explained the basic controls. By way of analogy, think of USM creating a stone wall at the tonal boundary. Amount will make wall higher, Radius will make it wider encroaching on more real estate on either side. The method I use was learned about 10 years ago from a Dan Margulis article in a magazine. It involves two steps: first applying USM, then using the Edit Fade function to adjust it with an interesting twist. The fade step is applied in Luminosity mode which thanks to some deep Photoshop mojo applies it to the L channel at the color management level. ![]() As a first step I applied 500, .2, 0 sharpening overall. That is the maximum amount, but applied very narrowly to the tonal borders (i.e. a high, narrow wall). Then I used Edit > Fade to scale it back, changing the mode in Fade from "normal" to "luminosity". Due to the way Photoshop works deep in it's bowels changing the mode to luminosity applies the sharpening only to the L channel as if in Lab mode even when the file mode is RGB. It eliminates any color artifacts that might occur when two contrasting primary or secondary colors are sharpened in RGB. The more useful think the Fade Step does is allow you to adjust the amount if USM interactively while seeing the full image in the edit window by moving the Opacity slider from 0% (no sharpening applied) to 100% (what is seen before the fade step). The amount of USM needed varies depending on the size of the image and how much detail it has. I use the high amount / low radius method for my small screen images because I like how it restores the crispness without any halos. But I hardly ever apply it at 100%. I move the opacity slider back and forth and usually wind up around 60-70%. The edit above is at 85% which is a bit more than I'd normally use for a portrait. Also I wouldn't apply USM overall for a portrait. For portraits I have an action I use which creates surface blur, high pass sharpen, and USM layers with masks which I selectively open and then blend the layers to adjust the appearance of the skin and tone down distractions like the buttons by blurring them a bit to take off the "sharp edges". Here's the high res copy with that treatment applied.. ![]() BTW - the skin highlights are blown out in the the red channel of that image due to either overexposure at capture or from the 16 bit wide gamut > 8 bit sRGB conversion step. You need to allow "headroom" at capture for the editing workflow changes. In addition to applying the skin treatment I fixed that and cloned out the less than ideally placed nose shadow that was hanging out because your key light was a bit to low... I apply USM for printing differently than for small screen images. Something to realize about USM for prints is that you really can't judge it on screen because it needs to compensate for variables of printing. The best way to zero in on a good USM baseline for prints is to take an image, apply various amounts and methods of USM, make prints, put them on the wall and then look at them from different distances. Viewing distance is a variable affecting perception of sharpness. Beyond reading distance of 18" the brain interprets 3D shape based on overall contrast differences between planes, similar to a wireframe rendering. As a general rule as you make a print larger and increase the viewing distance you can increase the amount of sharpening. |
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RustyBug Registered: Feb 02, 2009 Total Posts: 9572 Country: United States |
+1 @ oversharpen, fade to taste (also at layers/opacity/blend) |
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Robin Usagani Registered: Oct 26, 2010 Total Posts: 2480 Country: United States |
Ok , I will read it slowly at home. Nice edit. |