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| Re: Manual Focus Nikon Glass |
And finally to see what's changing in the innards of the lens upon shifting, here's two shots of the rear element of the lens, unshifted and shifted.
Hope that helps anyone who is interested in or has recently acquired this lens. When I first got it I was a little flustered, but with a little tinkering I figured out that even with my not so mechanically inclined brain I could use it consistently and easily.
The screw could be in the vertical postion pointing straight up (just rotate the lens) and then when you use the screw to shift, you would have the opposite effect, that is you would lose background and more of the top of the frame. One could also keep the screw pointing sideways then you are shifting in the horizontal axis.
The 24 PCE that for example Ben has been demoing recently I am sure is a bit different plus it has an additional tilt function. In addition, the 28 PC can be unforgiving if you don't keep it aligned with the vertical plane. I have had distortions that look crazy. It also has a bit of edge bluriness that I haven't checked if it disappears when stopping down. So for a pro it would be critical to learn how to work around the 28's weaknesses (or just buy the more modern 24 PCE).