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Great pictures from everybody and lots of likes and comments pending..sorry for the delay.
work's been keeping me from visiting this thread for the last few days..
The 200 f4 Q Ai'ing was a success and here's one of the first pics taken after the conversion with this beautiful MF that still performs wonderful after 40 years..sadly missed the blood moon.
200 f4 Q at f11(cropped)
Here are some of the conversion steps I took. Shall put together a detailed document as Curtis suggested soon.(Detailed images to follow and corrections if any)
Note* I have done the AI'ing for a D7K to prevent damage to the AI coupling on it. On older cameras that use an EE servo coupling post, this procedure might not work and damage your camera. So please consult before attempting anything at your own risk.
1. Remove the 5 screws on the lens mount(use a correct precision JIS screwdriver to prevent damage to the screws.Very crucial).Extend focus out to maximum.
2. Remove the 3 screws that hold the aperture action lever to the rear assembly(JIS screws again. Correct tools and care to be ensured).Remove the rear lens cup.
3. Carefully remove the lens mount and the aperture action lever assembly out (marking the position where the lever meets the aperture coupling - else will lead to stiffness after reassembly and possible scratches inside)
4. There is no aperture ring retaining screw on the 200 f4. With the lens mount and aperture coupler out, gently rotate and coax the aperture ring out marking the position of the meter coupling prong.Unscrew the coupling fork(rabbit ears)
5.Clean the aperture ring. To mark the milling/cutting position of the AI coupling ridge, there are guides/raised surfaces inside the aperture ring which will help you mark the exact milling end points. Also the filing should be to the edges just clearing the rabbit ear mounting screw holes. Measure the surface to be milled/cut and mark it perfectly using a masking tape(no clearance) to compensate for any parallax error. This also protects the aperture ring in case your file or tools slip and scratches or damages the ring
6. Begin filing or milling from the edges using a flat file with a steady hand and move inward. Prevent any filing that can round the edges. We need a flat good looking sharp edge on the lens we love
7.When the filing is in line with the masking tape edges, then smooth out any rough edges using emery paper but again ensure that no rounding of the edges occurs
8. Check tolerances(some AI'd pictures as reference) and if all good then thoroughly clean(blower) dry to get rid of all metal powder and then a good wipe with a tissue to ensure no residue remains
9.I left out filing the coupling fork(rabbit ears) but if you choose to not file the edges of the prong then you must be very careful every time you mount and unmount your lens as it clears the AI coupling prong on your Nikon very narrowly. On older cameras with the EE Servo coupling I am unsure whether the AI conversion will work or rather damage it.
10.With the focus extended at maximum, re-assemble the lens carefully starting with the Aperture ring. Ensure the groove in the ring aligns perfectly with the rear body and tuns the aperture rings without any resistance.Next gently mount the lens mount with the aperture lever assembly and again check for aperture ring movement and screw back the lens mount.Mount and screw back the rear cup over the rear assembly.check again for smooth movement and stop if you feel any resistance or jamming during focusing.
11. Test the AI mount - Gently mount the lens on your camera with aperture at maximum. Make sure you stop immediately if you see the ridge on the lens touching the AI coupler. If correctly milled/cut, it should just clear the AI coupling post by a fraction.
Edited on Apr 16, 2014 at 01:10 PM · View previous versions