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Manual Focus Nikon Glass
  
 
Zichar
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p.3370 #1 · p.3370 #1 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


Rats, in my over-exuberance I didn't cross-check the SN of the lens I bought with photosynthesis.co.nz
It's not an AI as advertised, but a late K series but AI modified, probably in the factory or so mir says
Optically everything's the same though, guess I'll just carry on



Nov 04, 2013 at 01:58 PM
asiostygius
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p.3370 #2 · p.3370 #2 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


Socalpicman wrote:
I went to a local park yesterday with some MF lenses. Ended up using the 55 1.4 SC and the 135 2.5 QC for the last shot. Was shooting pretty much wide open seeing how the bokeh looked in that setting, and to get some atypical type of pics.

remember to stretch before you swim
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7460/10620585345_655fbfea43_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7460/10620585345_655fbfea43_c.jpg

Thanks for looking,
JD



JD, I liked particularly this one.



Nov 04, 2013 at 02:02 PM
Mishu01
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p.3370 #3 · p.3370 #3 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


leighton w wrote:
Georg, I have had a look at all of my shots taken with the 50/1.2, and I just don't notice ANY field curvature. I wonder if it's your copy? Or perhaps it's the type of images I've taken that it doesn't show up.


+1 Exactly my experience.



Nov 04, 2013 at 03:04 PM
asiostygius
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p.3370 #4 · p.3370 #4 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


Thanks John, Georg, Ronny, Jay, Rafael, Samy and Jeff for the comments.

Ray, loved the bokeh from the 50/1.4 K;

Jay, great captures with 105/2.5 Sonnar (tree trunk) & 180/2.8 + polarizer (house + critters);

Rafael, impressive shots of festivities with the 50-300;

Samy, gorgeous fall colours and bokeh;

Leighton, what beautiful assorted pumpkins capture!

Jeff, great timing on the "flying fish";

Welcome George; and great debut shot;

Welcome back Mihai.




Lichens on a tree trunk from the Patagonian temperate forest:



Lichens with Nikon 75-150mm f/3.5 E @ 150mm by labecoaves, on Flickr

D600 + Nikon 75-150mm f/3.5 E @ 150mm, hand held, ISO 200, f/8 at 1/1250s; ~25% cropped. Bariloche's temperate forest, Argentina.



Nov 04, 2013 at 03:25 PM
the solitaire
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p.3370 #5 · p.3370 #5 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


GeorgeHudetz wrote:
Hi everyone. New here to FM looks like a great place!

A thread over on another forum got me thinking about manual focus lenses on my D7000, and this thread sealed the deal. So far Ive picked up a 28mm f2 and a 105mm f2.5, and am looking for a 24 f2.8, a 200 f4 and maybe a 50 and/or a 20.

Anyway, Im still getting a handle on these lenses, but I love them! As a mechanical gearhead at heart, I just love the design and operation of these lenses when compared to a typical consumer zoom. I totally get
...Show more

Hi George, welcome to this little manual focus Nikon world.

There are a few members here who also like the challenge of using manual focus lenses to photograph dogs in action



You picked 2 really nice lenses already. Cant really go wrong with any of the Nikon 28mm lenses and the 105 f2,5 is one of my personal favorites as well.

Depending on how big/small you would like to keep your manual focus lens selection either the 180 f2,8 ED Ai.S or one of the 135 f2,8 lenses would be another fine addition and on a crop sensor camera very well usable for making photographs of dogs.



Nov 04, 2013 at 03:57 PM
pbraymond
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p.3370 #6 · p.3370 #6 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


Finally some time with the MF Nikkors.






Fall close up

  NIKON D800    0.0 mm f/0.0 lens    28mm    f/4.0    1/400s    200 ISO    0.0 EV  







Maple

  NIKON D800    0.0 mm f/0.0 lens    105mm    f/8.0    1/160s    400 ISO    0.0 EV  




Nov 04, 2013 at 05:29 PM
HCE HCE
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p.3370 #7 · p.3370 #7 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


D800 55mm f/1.2 @ f/1.2 5 exposure pano





Here's the sleeping quarters at Point Cabrillo Light Station.
I replaced the original plagued by wb problems.
-Jay-

Edited on Nov 04, 2013 at 10:20 PM · View previous versions



Nov 04, 2013 at 05:44 PM
kwoodard
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p.3370 #8 · p.3370 #8 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


HCE HCE wrote:
D800 55mm f/1.2 @ f/1.2 12 exposure pano
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7427/10674274694_cac21e9198_o.jpg
Here's the lighthouse and sleeping quarters at Point Cabrillo Light Station.
-Jay-


Jay, I like the shot, but it looks like there is a spot where the stitching went awry along the fence and sidewalk. Is my monitor not displaying it right?



Nov 04, 2013 at 05:53 PM
mp356
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p.3370 #9 · p.3370 #9 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


Thank you Jay, Samy, Rafael, and Jeff for the comments on the barn images.



Jay, the green moss in the forest image is wonderful.

Samy, love the background rendering in the tree trunk with graffiti image.

Mark, nice desert dune scene.

Reagan, good to see you posting again. One of your favorite subjects.

Leighton, the pumpkin image is great. Nice colors and very sharp.

George, welcome aboard!

Mahai, glad to see you back.

Ray, I like the fall leaves image.



Nov 04, 2013 at 06:06 PM
the solitaire
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p.3370 #10 · p.3370 #10 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


kwoodard wrote:
Jay, I like the shot, but it looks like there is a spot where the stitching went awry along the fence and sidewalk. Is my monitor not displaying it right?


I think youre right there Kevin. About a quarter of the width from the left hand side



Nov 04, 2013 at 06:16 PM
 

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HCE HCE
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p.3370 #11 · p.3370 #11 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


the solitaire wrote:
I think youre right there Kevin. About a quarter of the width from the left hand side


Oops, will have to fix that!
-Jay-



Nov 04, 2013 at 07:00 PM
pburke
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p.3370 #12 · p.3370 #12 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


HCE HCE wrote:
Oops, will have to fix that!
-Jay-


while you're fixing, set the white balance for all images the same

very intriguing image as it seems like the very same house is in it three times. Almost a trick image one could possibly concoct in Photoshop of just one single building if one planned it right.




Nov 04, 2013 at 07:14 PM
jhinkey
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p.3370 #13 · p.3370 #13 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


pburke wrote:
John,

what exactly do you mean with the part of dealing with these files? I am in the middle of scanning about 15,000 slildes to TIF, opening in Camera Raw as if they were a NEF file and the result is simply amazing compared to what the same scanner did 13 years ago. Disk space is virtually free these days (just added another external 2TB backup unit for $90), so file size has really no drawback. I decided to keep the master TIFF files of most images, in case there's better software to process them one of these days. I
...Show more

Well, I did not like the original scans with the 5000ED because I had done them with the slide feeder and auto exposure, hence it did not get the exposure nor the white balance correct on many of them. Plus, these slides were in excellent condition with plastic mounts that did not shed copious amounts of dust like the cardboard ones do. No scratches, fingerprints, stains, and minimal dust made it possible.

Now with the D800 I was able to check the exposure, etc., in live view to get it just how I wanted it and then run things in post as necessary. Sometimes NX2, other times PS6 using bridge for particularly tricky images. I also could make perfect duplicate images with different exposures to do a bit of HDR if I really wanted to get all there is in the slide - something more difficult to do with the 5000ED. It also takes less time per slide to image it, though it take more of MY time because of the lack of a auto feeder for the slide holder. If some enterprising person could make an auto feeder that can be hooked up to at D800 + macro lens and automate the imaging process would be fantastic.

Also, the flare inherent in the 5000ED is really troublesome with snow images that have very dark objects in them (like people standing in the snow with black pants on). The 55/3.5 + D800 gives a much more flare-free image in such situations.

I would not try this with some of my older slides as they were far too scratched and dusty to make it worth it. I may try again with a more collimated light source to try to get the sharpness up a bit at the expense of additional grain.

EDIT:

Some time ago I did a comparison between the D800 + 55/3.5 vs. 5000ED. The DR was about the same - much better than my D700 - but the flare was absent with the D800 + 55/3.5 macro.



Nov 04, 2013 at 07:30 PM
leighton w
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p.3370 #14 · p.3370 #14 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


Jose - Thanks! And I am a sucker for good tree bark shots like yours.

Buddy - Good action shot!

Ray - Great Fall colors. We're about done here for the year.

Jay - Beautiful pano, but I thought you lived in AZ




Nov 04, 2013 at 08:11 PM
MDoc9523
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p.3370 #15 · p.3370 #15 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


George welcome to our thread. That's a great start and it looks like you have some fine lenses!
John what a view!
Jay beautiful colors and so sharp! Nice work. Love the pano
Jose that is so cool, it looks like a brain
Nice catch Buddy movement is a challenge on MF
Ray such beautiful fall colors. Looks like I am going to miss that this year




Nov 04, 2013 at 08:46 PM
MDoc9523
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p.3370 #16 · p.3370 #16 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


Here's a few from the University of Florida Teaching Garden using the D600 and 35mm 1.4 AIS










Nov 04, 2013 at 08:50 PM
pburke
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p.3370 #17 · p.3370 #17 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


jhinkey wrote:
Well, I did not like the original scans with the 5000ED because I had done them with the slide feeder and auto exposure, hence it did not get the exposure nor the white balance correct on many of them. Plus, these slides were in excellent condition with plastic mounts that did not shed copious amounts of dust like the cardboard ones do. No scratches, fingerprints, stains, and minimal dust made it possible.

Now with the D800 I was able to check the exposure, etc., in live view to get it just how I wanted it and then run things in post
...Show more


My slides were in archival storage, pro lab developed and most of them never out of the archival page since put in there 13 years ago. when done scanning, Viewscan shows what it had to fix in the ICE process and it is horrifying to see all the crud that's on there. Most of it can hardly be seen, but I doubt I'd have the patience to correct any image in that level of detail. There are a few hundred cardboard mounts - had to use whatever local labs offered us when they let us process film late at night on a weekend to get stuff online, but for the most part, I ran my film through my local pro lab.

White balance, and everything else I leave up to the software post scan. Each roll is different, some were push processed and look all muddy and blue, etc, so I batch scan at a pretty generic setting, but all files are manually tweaked in Camera Raw, as if they were NEF files. Gets me the dynamic range of the scan and full control over white balance, which even with the very brightly colored subjects I used to shoot is pretty close for the most part. Being always the same subject helps me there to correct manually. Also, the slides differ so much between batches, there's no way I would have the time to correct it in the scanning process - each slide takes 20 minutes to go through (dual exposure, 12 passes), and I don't have the time to sit there and do that for each when it comes around to scan the next one.


Vuescan always does multiple exposures, which for slide scans is the only way to really get some detail out of the shadows. My 48 bit files feel like they have an extra 2-3 stops of dynamic range, especially in the shadows, which in almost every case I have to pull up, while highlights are pretty close to maximized right from the scanner. They aren't D600 files, but then there's also not that much detail in the shadows on film to begin with


The auto feeder on the Coolscan is the only reason I am even willing to scan my old slides. It is just a daunting task to manually feed each slide, which I did back in the 90s using a SprintScan 35. That was seriously tedious, not even counting the lack of ICE cleanup .



Flare is a problem I also have - it only happens at certain angles of high contrast lines, and it was much much worse before I cleaned the mirror in the scanner (I do this every 1000 scans now, seems to keep it as good as it gets). Still, some images need some manual local adjustment brush work to control the bleeding of light into shadows. Maybe 1 in 20 images displays a noticeable halo effect or whatever you want to describe this as, and maybe 1 in 100 needs some work to fix it.

well, flare only comes up visible in my scans when I really lift shadows and go for some HDR-like recovery of the darks next to a very bright harsh edge that goes vertical across the 35mm frame with the dark on the left side of the bright edge. Take a look at my recent Flickr uploads to those sets from 2000 and 20001 and I doubt you'll see much of that in there. All those are perfectly preserved slides, some of them straight in the archival page from the lab and never pulled before I scanned them, and all of them have scratches right form the developing machine or mounting machine, as well as thousands of tiny specs the IR light picks up and cleans up.

Anyway, I don't have macro lenses, and my volume needs are much higher than yours. I have years of pro work to digitize and only a bulk feeder can get me through that part.

The flare really isn't an issue big enough for me to worry about, at least after cleaning it seems to only show in extreme cases such as here (not corrected, see halo around roll bar), but I could correct this in a few minutes of post if I really cared, or just mount this slide with a wet scan kit if it really mattered to get it as good as I can get it. These scans I am doing right now are almost as good as what I got from a $30,000 drum scanner in the year 2000, and definitely better than a professional flatbed Scitex scanner my local lab used at the time.

The difference in what I got out of the same slide back in 2000 versus today, mostly based on better software and I guess more understanding of what needs to be done to get the most out of a scan, is simply stunning and I'm quite happy with what I get. The next step up in quality would really require to manually wet mount every single slide, and that's just not worth it to me.

This scanned in 2000 on Polaroid Sprintscan with Photoshop 6.0 (I think), single file scan manually tweaking things
This scanned last week on 4000 ED, VueScan, Camera RAW in CS6, in a batch, generic scanner settings, then adjusting everything in post.

Sadly, none of these linked images were created with Nikon gear



Nov 04, 2013 at 08:59 PM
leighton w
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p.3370 #18 · p.3370 #18 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


MDoc9523 wrote:

Here's a few from the University of Florida Teaching Garden using the D600 and 35mm 1.4 AIS

http://raysteele.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v88/p769777873-4.jpg


http://raysteele.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v96/p106022854-4.jpg


http://raysteele.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v86/p492548661-4.jpg


http://raysteele.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v110/p862084883-4.jpg


Gorgeous shots Ray, but especially the last three. I really like the light on the fern. Maybe I need the 35 instead of the 85.



Nov 04, 2013 at 09:02 PM
leighton w
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p.3370 #19 · p.3370 #19 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


And what's up with the site No images show up when quoting anymore.


Nov 04, 2013 at 09:03 PM
MDoc9523
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p.3370 #20 · p.3370 #20 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


leighton w wrote:
And what's up with the site No images show up when quoting anymore.


Thank you leighton I love the 35mm 1.4 AIS and coupled with the 85mm 1.4 AIS I may pass on the 50 or 55 1.2
I have noticed that for the last week or so. Probably not a bad idea for our friend on slow internet?



Nov 04, 2013 at 09:11 PM
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