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Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread
  
 
airfrogusmc
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p.927 #1 · p.927 #1 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


Thanks Katie,

I'll go over and take a look.

I miss my blads.

Thank you so much....



Jun 02, 2014 at 12:58 AM
Gary Clennan
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p.927 #2 · p.927 #2 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


A few from last weekend. Missed focus on #1....








50lux ASPH






50lux ASPH






50lux ASPH



Edited on Jun 02, 2014 at 02:32 AM · View previous versions



Jun 02, 2014 at 02:19 AM
Mitch Alland
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p.927 #3 · p.927 #3 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


x

Edited on Jul 05, 2014 at 10:32 AM · View previous versions



Jun 02, 2014 at 02:28 AM
adamdewilde
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p.927 #4 · p.927 #4 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


airfrogusmc wrote:
Thanks so much for the info. I'm not sure which way I will go yet. Thinking about a 21 or 24 and a 90 Cron also?

I appreciate the advice form both you and Edward.



My thoughts aren't really technical, just kinda real world abrupt gut reviews... It might not reflect your own experience.
I find that modern Leica lenses tend to fit into a few categories, without really getting into to much detail, I'd say that if you like POP and contrast the 21SEM is a GREAT lens for it, the 21/2.8 ZM is a bit less "WOW in your face" and a bit more stylistic with the rendering, so again personal preference, but you can get the ZM for 1/3 the price most days.. The 25ZM I have little experience with, same with the 24elmar, but looking at flickr images for ages (and briefly testing both lenses at different times), I'd say that they both behave quite similar to there 21mm counterparts. The slight exception is that I feel from viewing images from the 24elmar it has a slightly stylistic rendering at close range, and gets a similar look to the 21SEM by far/infinite distances. I know a few people here have ages of shooting experience with the 24mm so maybe they'll chime in.

As for the 90Cron.. I've had all versions of this lens and most of the elmarits too, my honest opinion on the matter is, it's hard to focus, and when you do focus it, there's really little to no payoff.. It's a more flat standard rendering. Let me explain in a bit more detail.. Ok the 75APO is pretty fantastic, the problem is that I think it suffers from massive veiling flare, and what that means is, anywhere where the lighting conditions allow for it, you'll get a washed out image, mind you beautiful bokeh and old school rendering, but no pop-contrast what so ever. BUT in the right lighting conditions, the lens turns into a contrast monster, and you get beautiful soft rendering with the perfect amount of contrast to make your images pop. Now with all versions of the 90cron, I found that even in ideal lighting conditions, the contrast just isn't where I want it to be. So what I'm left with is a sharp lens that renders nice bokeh and has decent (not as good as the 75APO) sharpness to OOF fall off, but it's bigger and harder to focus. Maybe a landscape photographer would have a different opinion. The non-apo versions of this lens, and the fat and skinny 2.8s are only worth it if you're getting a good deal. Otherwise I'd take the decently compact 90 Summarit. It's got a fair amount of contrast/pop, and it's pretty damn sharp. The handling in my opinion is also easier, I find I can focus it a lot easier side by side. Also at this point the 90summarit can be had quite cheap as well, I see used ones all the time relatively cheap!

Hope this makes sense/helps.



Jun 02, 2014 at 06:55 AM
adamdewilde
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p.927 #5 · p.927 #5 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


rscheffler wrote:
Allen,

If you go with an M-E or used M9, you'll want all the lens speed you can get. With the M240 the file characteristics at higher ISOs are similar to what you're already accustomed to with Canon, but I find that while one can push M240 high ISO files moderately, they feel somewhat thin and brittle. It doesn't take too much for white speckles to appear at pixel level and shadow values will start to reveal a green tinge. Unlike the M-E/M9, it's not such a great idea to push M240 shadow values a huge amount, especially at higher ISOs.
...Show more


VERY difficult for me to do on the fly corrections when shooting weddings photojournalism style, but something I'll have to work on I suppose.

I agree about the M240 having a slight green bias in the shadows when shooting and brightening, I don't know why, but the added benefits of shooting ISO 800 and boosting in LR to equivalent of ISO 6400 shows FAR less grain, and the green is something I've just compensated for when needed. In fact, after switching work systems so much, I've come to appreciate my M240 files, and my old M9 files as well.

Allen - I just wrote about the slower lenses, I didn't know you were considering the 21/24.. I tested them both as I was planning on buying one or the other. In almost all instances I'd take a 21mm over a 24mm, but in this case, I found that if I was going to buy a super expensive wide, I'd take the 24mm as it seemed to give this unreal 3D effect not only to the few samples I shot, but also I noticed this trend on flickr/web. However, I think, and I have limited knowledge in this area, but the 21Lux had less or at least appeared at Min focusing distances to have less of a weird distorting effect. So what I thought was, if I was using the 21Lux for environmental portraits, I could see the benefits, but if I wanted a street/travel wide, I'd buy the 24mm.. In the end I thought about how little I use the 21SEM, even though I love it, so I decided to keep the money under my mattress for a bit longer.


I too shoot at wide open, 5.6, 11 (I don't like the funny in-between numbers). F/11 is fantastic in studio! I rarely shoot landscapes though



Jun 02, 2014 at 07:08 AM
edwardkaraa
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p.927 #6 · p.927 #6 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


Gary, Mitch, Adam, great contributions.

Also many thanks to Adam and Ron for the very interesting insights. Particularly about the Leica 21/24, all this is new for me and highly appreciated.



Jun 02, 2014 at 07:34 AM
airfrogusmc
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p.927 #7 · p.927 #7 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


Thanks Adam, Edward and Ron for the isight. Great to tap into others knowledge and experience when making expensive decisions. Another reason this is one of my favorite threads on the world wide web. Great photographs and wealth of knowledge.


Jun 02, 2014 at 11:04 AM
airfrogusmc
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p.927 #8 · p.927 #8 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


Love the series Mitch and I to love Epson Exhibition Fiber.


Jun 02, 2014 at 11:05 AM
charles.K
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p.927 #9 · p.927 #9 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


+1

Allen, the most difficult aspect I have found with the M9/M240 with WA's is composing images, as the frame lines can be very hit and miss. The horizontal is usually way off with using the RF. Ron, seems to always nail his compositions!! I have been lately using LV for this reason.

Don't discount the ZM 25 is an excellent lens for street work. It is not too wide and it has the traditional Zeiss look. It has MFD of 0.5m combined with LV if needed, or guesstimating. I now have the 24 Lux which is great, but I find myself using a lot of the WATE. I have never thought about using anything less 21mm, but combined with LV, there is not the frustration of unexpected compositions.

Adam, beautifully executed shot!
Gary, very nice impromptu captures.



Jun 02, 2014 at 11:43 AM
airfrogusmc
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p.927 #10 · p.927 #10 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


Thanks Charles.


Jun 02, 2014 at 11:48 AM
 

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atwl77
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p.927 #11 · p.927 #11 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


I usually don't mind the inaccurate frame lines and just roll with it. Sometimes I surprise myself, and end up with compositions I like better on inaccurate-framed cameras (the rangefinders, the Fuji X100s, etc) than with accurate viewfinders (the 5D Mark3).

The only thing I have trouble with is getting horizons straight with the 28mm frame lines.



Jun 02, 2014 at 12:01 PM
adamdewilde
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p.927 #12 · p.927 #12 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


atwl77 wrote:
I usually don't mind the inaccurate frame lines and just roll with it. Sometimes I surprise myself, and end up with compositions I like better on inaccurate-framed cameras (the rangefinders, the Fuji X100s, etc) than with accurate viewfinders (the 5D Mark3).

The only thing I have trouble with is getting horizons straight with the 28mm frame lines.



Yeah, but the trouble begins when you like to frame your subjects really tightly.. For instance with couples shots, you find that you have the girl in the frame and half of the guy out of the frame. Stepping back is also a possibility, but it increases focus error (or at least for me it does).




Jun 02, 2014 at 12:43 PM
airfrogusmc
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p.927 #13 · p.927 #13 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


I have really gotten pretty good with how the 35 frames with the Mono. It did take some time to learn though. But thats all part of the process in my opinion. Getting to a point where a new tool becomes second nature. Theres more to the image than the crop lines show. I would imagine that just increases with wider angles? Yes, no?




Jun 02, 2014 at 01:38 PM
adamdewilde
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p.927 #14 · p.927 #14 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


airfrogusmc wrote:
I have really gotten pretty good with how the 35 frames with the Mono. It did take some time to learn though. But thats all part of the process in my opinion. Getting to a point where a new tool becomes second nature. Theres more to the image than the crop lines show. I would imagine that just increases with wider angles? Yes, no?



It would APPEAR to increase, as the lens is wider, so it takes in more of a scene. But in actual measurement of frame, I think that the more tele the lens, the more "loose" the frame line becomes. Or that's how I felt on my few M9 cameras and two M9p cameras that I owned. Specifically I remember the last M9p I owned was REALLY bad with 90mm frame lines, you'd get way more then you thought you were going to get.

Do you notice how when you focus your frame lines move down and to the right? That's correcting for parallax error, and I have a suspicion that either my M240 is overcorrecting, or the frame line mask in general is just really off from the start. Which is why when I shoot, not only do I get a bit of breathing room, but I get like a few feet more on two sides of the rectangle box. And lose a few feet on the other two sides. And when I say a few feet, obviously it depends on how far away I am from my subject, the shift varies, as it should.




Jun 02, 2014 at 03:41 PM
airfrogusmc
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p.927 #15 · p.927 #15 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


Adam, I also notice with the MM that the frame lines move from upper left to lower right as I focus closer and yes I get a bit more in reality than the lines show. But shooting with the 35 only for a year and a half I rally have a good feel for where the frame actually is in relationship to the actual image.


Jun 03, 2014 at 12:04 AM
charles.K
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p.927 #16 · p.927 #16 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


adamdewilde wrote:
It would APPEAR to increase, as the lens is wider, so it takes in more of a scene. But in actual measurement of frame, I think that the more tele the lens, the more "loose" the frame line becomes. Or that's how I felt on my few M9 cameras and two M9p cameras that I owned. Specifically I remember the last M9p I owned was REALLY bad with 90mm frame lines, you'd get way more then you thought you were going to get.

Do you notice how when you focus your frame lines move down and to the right? That's
...Show more

Hi Allen/Adam,

The M9P/MM framing lines for 35/50 and 75, were always calibrated very accurately for 1 to 2m by Camera clinic in the past. This saved many excellent shots from being discarded having captured only part of the frame. Of course the M240 needs to be sent to Solms, so this for me is out of the question, unless the calibration has moved.
For the WA's, such as the ZM 25, 24 Lux and SEM 21, I used the CV 21/25 finder. This is excellent, as you can use zone focusing, and then just frame and take the shots. Again the issue, is finding horizontal, and the frame lines can be loose. I now exclusively use LV for WA's, as I really like to think where I place items in WA shots. I don't like the hit and miss in PP'ing where the horizontal is incorrect, and I have lost a lot of my image. Of course this is become a lot easier, as you really get to know your camera



Jun 03, 2014 at 12:56 AM
edwardkaraa
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p.927 #17 · p.927 #17 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


The M9 frame lines are calibrated for 1 meter while the M 240 frame lines are calibrated for 2 meters. That makes a huge difference especially at MFD.


Jun 03, 2014 at 02:26 AM
redisburning
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p.927 #18 · p.927 #18 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


lots of talk on 50s, but I didn't see mention of the 50mm M-Hexanon.

it's a very nice lens. maybe no one on FM owns one?



Jun 03, 2014 at 02:27 AM
Gary Clennan
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p.927 #19 · p.927 #19 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


I don't hear much about the Hex lenses but I have seen some good shots from the 50mm. IIRC, it behaves much like the ZM50 Planar.... I have always wanted to try out the 60 Hex though.


Jun 03, 2014 at 03:05 AM
adamdewilde
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p.927 #20 · p.927 #20 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q Picture Thread


edwardkaraa wrote:
The M9 frame lines are calibrated for 1 meter while the M 240 frame lines are calibrated for 2 meters. That makes a huge difference especially at MFD.


When I got my camera adjusted, I told them I shoot at min distances to a max of 2 meters.. They said they'd adjust accordingly, and just didn't.. So either the fellows in Germany can't adjust for min focusing because of the mechanics, or won't because they don't want to. Either way, it's a big hassle, the biggest.

Charles - You are right, anything wide and LV comes on, it's great to have in those cases.





Jun 03, 2014 at 07:00 AM
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