The white lightning's backplate is a brushed finish (lines going in one direction)...looks a little bit better so I'm surprised this other finish was used instead (probably to cut costs) . I agree the mold trimming around the backplate area isn't the greatest...not sure why they didn't put the mold fill/grip points on the inside so it's less visible. I'd be surprised if newer ones are better unless they change the mold.
The mounting finger lever on the WL isn't as smooth as the AB so it's probably a similar mechanism. Feels a lot more solid than the AB's mechanism though
And FWIW, a Profoto compact and D1 can't freeze hair motion when a model whips it around. I was surprised how badly they did...hair was a total blur unless it was close to the start of the swing. Looking forward to trying this w/ the Einstein
BTW, when you got down around 5ws you should have just hit the shutter xxFPS and then when you hit the shutter the assistant should have just popped the balloon. Didn't Paul say the Einstein could keep up with 8fps bursts at lower WS?
bacilonur wrote:
I have a sound and lightning trigger that I made with my Arduino, it just takes a while to setup and it's slightly more messy when you're using a gun.
Sweet, you have an Arduino. I always get excited when I hear of people using Arduinos.
From scrolling through the power options, it looks like the best all-round choice in Action mode is -4f (40ws). 10,400 t.1 and 6350k. From there it evens off to 11,000 at -5 (20ws), 11,700 at -6 (10ws), and 12,500 at -7(5ws).
One possible plus to Action mode during the day is you can enhance your sunset sky without gels.
wow, this was a very informative test, props to your hard work and for the numerous water balloons that made this possible!
i'm wondering though, how did you trigger the explosions while both hands were busy?
Also, does the color temperature stay at 6350 degrees throughout the range or are there indicators of what color temperature you should be shooting at in each relative w/s output? i didn't quite understand whether the color temperature consistency of +/- 50 degrees meant that the color temperature was fixed at a certain kelvin rating or was consistent at each power stop.
I used Color mode, so each of those shots has (theoretically) the exact same WB of 5600k.
In Action mode, you can see on the back of the Einstein or Cybercommander what the temperature will be. Here's what the back of my Einstein says for the color temp in Action mode:
Don't let the color temperature changes in Action Mode scare you. The same happens with speedlights and $10,000 Euro packs with IGBTs. Remember, natural light varies from around 5000K to 10,000°K and there is no display of what it is. So when you need to really stop action, use Action Mode and either set your camera for the displayed color temp or shot RAW and adjust it.
Also, if you look at the color on the arms and water in baclionur's shots you can see the constant color and lack of shift between power levels.
Thanks for the tests baclionur. Rob Galbraith will probably post spinning wheel tests which are much easier to do far more definitive. I have done spinning wheel tests myself but don't like to challenge forum rules by posting them. I'll get some on our website pretty soon - I have more projects each day and little time.
Alright, spinning dremel results are up for all you measurebators. I really shouldn't be doing this for free. I hope no one tries reading it on an iPhone or netbook
bacilonur wrote:
Alright, spinning dremel results are up for all you measurebators. I really shouldn't be doing this for free. I hope no one tries reading it on an iPhone or netbook
But have you tried the Einstein with one of your Pelican packs yet? I'm dying to know if it works.
