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ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)
  
 
Rodluvan
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p.846 #1 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Thanks RiverGuy!

On my screen they appear somewhat underexposed though, can you confirm this?



Apr 17, 2013 at 07:25 AM
Reagan
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p.846 #2 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Dean, You street photography excels with the M9 and 50mp
great work on both threads
Same to you Ronny and Phillipe
Everyone else here has great work also

Reagan



Apr 17, 2013 at 10:19 AM
RiverGuy
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p.846 #3 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Rodluvan wrote:
Thanks RiverGuy!

On my screen they appear somewhat underexposed though, can you confirm this?


Rodluvan: On my own screen they appear the same way, unfortunately. It's about a level or two below what it appears on my website. I'll just have to adjust to the difference in the future for some shots.

It's also dark because I shot it in very low late day light, to keep the threads of the seed ball from blowing out or reflecting light into the spaces between them. They are VERY reflective, and most folks who shoot them overexpose them. On my website, the seed ball sections are bright to the limit, but all the rest is really dark. That was the plan, but here it's just too dark.

Sorry.

DM

http://danmacdonald.zenfolio.com/zeiss135_for_nikon



Apr 17, 2013 at 12:42 PM
akul
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p.846 #4 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Rony - Great color on the series. Love the drawers

Fverburg - Congrats on your 50 Planar. My favorite lens ( I have Contax MM version )

Lotusm50 - Very nice focus.


deang001- Wonderful series. #2 is my favorite.

RiverGuy - impressive. Focus stacking is still a big mystery for me. Well done.






Apr 17, 2013 at 12:49 PM
Rodluvan
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p.846 #5 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


RiverGuy wrote:
Rodluvan: On my own screen they appear the same way, unfortunately. It's about a level or two below what it appears on my website. I'll just have to adjust to the difference in the future for some shots.

It's also dark because I shot it in very low late day light, to keep the threads of the seed ball from blowing out or reflecting light into the spaces between them. They are VERY reflective, and most folks who shoot them overexpose them. On my website, the seed ball sections are bright to the limit, but all the rest is really
...Show more

No sweat! Just wanted to make sure my screen wasn't misrepresenting or that if you'd done it on purpose (avoiding the blown out bits in flowers is tricky business, and many photogs don't care or don't know about such "details").



Apr 17, 2013 at 01:25 PM
RiverGuy
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p.846 #6 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Akul:

RiverGuy - impressive. Focus stacking is still a big mystery for me. Well done.


Akul: I'm tempted to say focus stacking requires great intellect, artistic skill, technical wizardry, blah, blah. If I had my Eel River Porter or Duck Rabbit in me, I probably would, but it's too early in the day.

Actually, it requires telling Helicon which images you want stacked, and then--here comes the hard part-- clicking the "Run" button.

It does require patience when you make the shots, and a very stable tripod. Whenever I do my artifact work, or any macro work or things like the dandelion shot, I shoot MUP to get the mirror flap out of the equation as well. And, of course, cable release. And before you start the "slicing" series, you gotta go through the fast mental checklist that the tripod column is locked up, all the ballhead knobs are tight, the tripod isn't on bouncy grass that's pushing back at it, etc., etc. And the evil nemesis Wind isn't there..... Or, as I did in many of my images for my 135 gallery, shoot carefully but furiously between gusts. And light conditions must be constant from layer to layer.

With a manual lens and out in the field where tethering is not an option, you have to look at the object carefully and think about where the focus layers should be. Go to what you think is the nearest part of the object to the lens, focus at that point until the dot appears in the viewfinder, then back up from that level a hair until it looks as if you've backed right out of all focus points.... Click that shutter there, regardless of what it looks like in the viewfinder. Then start the other way, down the layers through your object, taking care to "overshoot" the back side of it the same way you shot an "early layer" on the front side. You might end up throwing out the first and last layers, but you have them for safety's sake. The reason why you must do this is nothing kills a beautiful Helicon Focus stacked image like having the nearest part of your subject out of focus.... The eye goes right to it. The dandelion would have been a screaming example of this. Fortunately, I've learned my lessons.

One squirrely area with me is using Live View, which is a lot easier in the D800 or D800E than it was in the D3x. To tell you the truth, I just lose patience with it, and it introduces additional opportunity for the camera to be moved with all the focusing and hitting the buttons. This is just me, others might opt for LV when shooting layers. I occasionally use it to prep for single shot photography, usually getting the focus in LV, then coming out of Live View, going to MUP and taking the final shot. I usually opt for LV when for some reason I just can't be sure of the image in the viewfinder. But to do this in 8-15-20 layers for Helicon Focus, project after project, will put you in the deepest ward of the local asylum.

Helicon's algorithm seems to have vastly improved in the past two years. I know this because I shoot artifact photography all the time, week in and week out.

There are all sorts of possbilities using HF. You might shoot a whole complicated object with a solid surface and get a depth of field and clarity/sharpness you'd never get with a single shot, or you might just tweak the depth of field, maybe shoot 3-5 images in a fast slicing series to turn what otherwise would be a bokeh dominated study shot for us photo geeks into a publishable, sales-worthy print for the rest of the world. I can't emphasize enough the advantages of this. The first time you pull it off, you'll never look back. It's a tool every serious shooter should have. Doesn't work every time, but it works a very high percentage of the time, and when it does, you have something all together different in your galleries. Now you're in a position to "paint depth" into any image to the degree you want. But you get the best of both worlds: you get sweet range (for the 100/2 or 135/2, f/4 to 5.6, maybe stretched to f/8) sharpness and bokeh, with the depth you'd otherwise only be able to have coupled with loss of quality (diffraction) at f/16 and beyond, not to mention sluggish shutter speeds or having to shoot away from ISO 100 or 200 and introducing noise.

Here's a series using some of the component layers of HF images done with the 135/2. It's set up so you can look hard at the clarity, detail, sharpness and bokeh of each original layer image and then quickly compare it to the final HF image. That should make the points I talk about here very clear. This is the magic of HF unraveled:

http://danmacdonald.zenfolio.com/heliconfocusstackingdemo/slideshow

Give focus stacking a try.

--Dan



Apr 17, 2013 at 02:03 PM
Ronny _Olsson
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p.846 #7 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Thanks


Apr 17, 2013 at 06:24 PM
wiseguy010
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p.846 #8 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


RiverGuy wrote:
ZF 135/2 working with Helicon Focus. 16 images stacked. 2nd image is crop of the first.

http://danmacdonald.zenfolio.com/zeiss135_for_nikon


Very nice. Do you know if there is good focus stacking software available as plugin for Lightroom?



Apr 17, 2013 at 10:11 PM
deang001
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p.846 #9 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Reagan wrote:
Dean, You street photography excels with the M9 and 50mp
great work on both threads
Same to you Ronny and Phillipe
Everyone else here has great work also

Reagan


Thanks, Reagan !!

Lot of familiar people on this thread



Apr 17, 2013 at 11:14 PM
kwoodard
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p.846 #10 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


deang001 wrote:
Thanks, Reagan !!

Lot of familiar people on this thread

I think Reagan is feeling the pull of Zeiss (and AF? What is up with that Reagan?) I know I would love a Zeiss lens, but unless its given to me, my economics would have to change drastically.



Apr 17, 2013 at 11:38 PM
 

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RiverGuy
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p.846 #11 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


wiseguy010 wrote:
Very nice. Do you know if there is good focus stacking software available as plugin for Lightroom?


I don't know. I would wonder about Lightroom, as it would be early in the PP process, or earlier than I like to do stacking. I generally process the layer photos in NX2, convert to JPEG or rarely TIFF, then stack, then crop if necessary. You have to be very careful not to introduce any more variation in light levels or anything else before you stack, since the software needs layers where the variation is mainly in the point of focus. By the time HF takes on the stack of images, everything is already done to them. PP sharpening, any WB adjustment, etc. But I don't play with anything that wouldn't be the same adjustment image to image. So you can batch adjust a whole stack to a certain light level, a sharpness level, and maybe a WB adjustment to a grey card or something. Then stack them in HF and run the results. I might rarely adjust light in the final image, or even select a piece of the background to darken or lighten in NX2 afterward.

You can't stack NEF images. So a plugin to something like Lightroom doesn't really help much, I would think. But that's a guess, I don't really know.

--Dan



Apr 18, 2013 at 01:04 AM
carstenw
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p.846 #12 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Some of the plugins do convert before the export to the plugin, so that would work. And of course there is nothing stopping you from doing all your usual Lightroom stuff before invoking the plugin. I think it could work well.


Apr 18, 2013 at 06:32 AM
RiverGuy
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p.846 #13 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


carstenw wrote:
Some of the plugins do convert before the export to the plugin, so that would work. And of course there is nothing stopping you from doing all your usual Lightroom stuff before invoking the plugin. I think it could work well.


I'm sure I was trying to say what you just said, but didn't make it clear. Thanks, I agree. I was just trying to stress that it's best to give the HF stacking program, the only one I'm familiar with, as uniform a series of layers as possible, with the main variable being the depth of field. So all the creative PP that isn't absolutely uniform needs to occur after the stacks become one image.

--Dan



Apr 18, 2013 at 10:04 AM
akul
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p.846 #14 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


RiverGuy- Thank you very much for your detailed 'focus stacking demystified' report. Great information. Getting a bit of an itch after visiting your gallery. Very nice works.



Apr 18, 2013 at 10:14 AM
carstenw
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p.846 #15 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


RiverGuy wrote:
I'm sure I was trying to say what you just said, but didn't make it clear. Thanks, I agree. I was just trying to stress that it's best to give the HF stacking program, the only one I'm familiar with, as uniform a series of layers as possible, with the main variable being the depth of field. So all the creative PP that isn't absolutely uniform needs to occur after the stacks become one image.

--Dan


Yes, that makes sense. Unify exposure and white balance, perhaps some other global operations, then HF, then local operations.



Apr 18, 2013 at 12:13 PM
Lieutenant Z
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p.846 #16 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Gregg, love the last one
Ronny, the bird shot is amazing

85P :









Apr 18, 2013 at 07:59 PM
Samuli Vahonen
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p.846 #17 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Was nice to see 28mm images in last pages - thanks for posting. That lens has great characteristics.

Carl Zeiss Makro-Planar T* 2/100 @ f/2.8, 1/800s, 5DmkII


Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 1.4/35 @ f/1.4, 1/2000s, 5DmkII


Samuli

Edited on Apr 18, 2013 at 08:38 PM · View previous versions



Apr 18, 2013 at 08:18 PM
carstenw
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p.846 #18 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Downhill and uphill? I prefer the first one.


Apr 18, 2013 at 08:36 PM
carstenw
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p.846 #19 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Greggf wrote:
Ladybug...


Factoid: did you know that these are called ladybirds in British English? Ladybirds aren't actually bugs, which shockingly actually has a specific definition. Anyway, they are not birds either



Apr 18, 2013 at 08:38 PM
Samuli Vahonen
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p.846 #20 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


carstenw wrote:
Downhill and uphill? I prefer the first one.

No - typo in the lens descriptions (corrected), same tree with 100mm and 35mm.

Samuli



Apr 18, 2013 at 08:39 PM
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