The comparisons are a little too quick to be useful. I can't speak for Lightroom or Nik, but the Portraiture 2 sample doesn't show that filter's potential. Here's what I get using Portraiture 2:
Mind if I ask what settings you are using? Are you fading the effect after it is applied? Thanks for posting that, I do believe their is more to Portraiture but it takes quite a bit of trial and error to fully understand the somewhat complicated software.
ModifiedPhoto wrote:
Mind if I ask what settings you are using? Are you fading the effect after it is applied? Thanks for posting that, I do believe their is more to Portraiture but it takes quite a bit of trial and error to fully understand the somewhat complicated software.
I didn't save the PSD file, but from memory, some of the settings that can make a big difference are the Fine slider and the Portrait Size options. I generally set it on Large even for smaller images, because the Small setting makes the detail filters too aggressive; the Fine filter is almost like G/blur in smoothing over normal skin details.
I know that I also advanced the tint slider (toward the greens) to reduce the redness in the skin tones.
Also, when you're making fairly aggressive adjustment to knock out larger blemishes, that can wipe out finer texture that you'd like to keep; adding sharpening (with "use mask" ticked) can bring those details back.
It's a very sophisticated filter, and it takes some playing around to get it's full potential.
For best results, use the healing brush on a blank layer to cover larger blemishes. Then stamp that to a new layer and run Portraiture.
Thanks Peano, I will give it some more testing and see what I can do and post an updated review of it later.
The software IS very powerful but for an average user, it could be too much. Needless to say, it does what they advertise and far better than I can quickly do by hand.
ModifiedPhoto wrote:
The software IS very powerful but for an average user, it could be too much.
Yes, they could always just go with the default settings in Portraiture, but that's like going with Auto Levels or Auto Color. It's as likely to make things worse as it is to make them better.
1. Bring the image into Photoshop as a smartobject (from ARC/LR).
2. Use Layer > Smart Object > Make copy of smartobject to create an independent layer with a copy of smartobject.
3. Select new layer and double click on image thumbnail to open image back in ACR (LR).
4. Use NEGATIVE clarity to taste or a little higher.
5. Return to Photoshop.
6. Apply a black mask and paint in (use selective brush opacity where appropriate) smoothing.
7. Blur mask slightly when finished.
One nice thing about this approach is you can fine tune the result at many levels (clarity, brush, location on image, layer opacity, etc). Having two smartobject layers allows you to have your original available for comparison (so you don't get crazy with the work) and allows you to create as many independent smartobject versions as you need.
If you shoot RAW and have ACR use the brush "K" with the clarity slider to the left about -45 for starters and brush. Use the slider for opacity.
Show the mask to help you stay out of the eyes and such. Make sure all the other sliders are in neutral.
In CS4 anyway.
