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Not everybody believes showing more wave is the best thing to do.
If the wave height is hip high and you're shooting from a pier (above the waves), there is little wave definition. Shooting from a beach accentuates wave height.
You have to decide what your subject is. Sometimes the context will be as important the surfer and sometimes no.
Consider shooting manual with at least SS1000 (to stop the suds), f8 -f11 should give enough dof to keep surfer in focus in case your focus point slips. Then you have to deal with brightness. A circular polarizer could help or EV adjustment to reduce sensor sensitivity.
just my .02
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