Andre Labonte Offline Image Upload: Off
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p.5 #7 · d300 to d700 or not??? | |
theSuede wrote:
I wish I'd get the Sig150macro back soon, it was perfect to illustrate those differences when compared to my 100F/2.8E on the crop-sensor... They're both more than sharp enough for most uses, and when you use the 150 @ F/4 you get approximately the same DoF as if you use the 100 @ F/2.8 on a D300. When you take a picture on those premises, with the same shutterspeed, the D700/150mmF/4 is a LOT sharper and has the same/less noise than the D300/100mmF/2.8 combo. Stopped down you get approximately the same DoF before diffraction starts to show (at F/11 and F/16 respectively).
My responce:
If you take one shot at f/4 and the other at f/2.8 with the same light illuminating it and the same shutter speed as you propose in the above paragraph, then the two images will have a 1-stop difference in exposure.
The only way to reconcile this is to change ISO. However, in the context of the original conversation I was having with others, ISO was to remain constant. You cleaverly, but without saying it, changed the conditions of the experiment. Another example of this:
theSuede wrote:
And NO!!!! - DX will NOT gather the light faster because the lens is "wider open". Same DoF/same FoV = Same amount of light. This is quite simply not negotiable... On the FX this (same) amount of light is spread over a larger sensor area (this is the ONLY difference), and because of this it is fraught by less inherent losses in the sensor - which helps the FX, not the DX. The aperture area is exactly the same when you stop the longer (FX) lens down the 1.2 stops needed to get the same DoF. The DX often has a higher maximum amount of light per mm2 measurable before clipping, which is to the DX's advantage. The lens used on the FX can have an MTF that's one third (-33% relative) lower than the DX lens and still look just as sharp.
Amount of light will always be solid space angle times aperture area times exposure time. This is basic physics, so unless someone is up for a Nobel prize, that ain't gonna change.
My responce:
Really, I suppose you are right if you want to be technical and use physics terminology as opposed the photographic terminology. But since in the photographic world, people refer to f-stop (i.e. relative aperture, or just "aperture" for shot), my statement is correct from an illumination per unit area point of view, which is what is important for correct exposure. Numerical apeture = N=f/D = f-stop. I'm using N which is what all photographers use. You are using D which only physics text books use.
This is a photography forum and I'm using the terminology that photographers use. You claim I'm wrong when in fact I am correct, but you cleaverly change the conditions of the experiment by changing you terminology set.
I did a little looking into things, and apparently you have a habbit of doing that, interesting read, this thread is:
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/780134/0
Seems others have called you out for the same thing.
theSuede wrote:
But I'm with Andre on the point that some of the medium tele lenses used on "standard" apertures (like F/5.6 or so) are just as good as the slightly longer lens you'd have to use on FX @F/8 - and quite a lot cheaper/smaller. But that's actually the ONLY point where I see the DX format as being "better". For all other purposes, FX is better, in all ways imaginable except price & weight.
My responce:
Did I ever say DX was better?
theSuede wrote:
And if you cant see the reasons why the same ISO gives different amounts of noise (as integrated over a complete picture frame) when you vary the sensor area, I do in all honesty think you should be very careful with throwing that PhD around. Me, with a meager double masters did that connection a long time ago.
I NEVER said that FX and DX gave the same noise characteristics. DO NOT put words in my mouth. Such behavoir is paramount to to a lie and I do not appreciate people misrepresenting me.
Also, it is NOT the sensor size that determins the noise characteristics to begin with, but the design of the individual photo detectors (i.e. pixels) in the sensor, combined with the supporting electronics that determin the noise characteristic of a sensor. Image processing plays a role as well. For any given technology node, the size of the pixel is the primary knob on noise performance, thus for FX and DX of the SAME MP, FX has better noise performance.
theSuede wrote:
Base ISO is chosen to be located just above where the sensor fills the well with charges, without charge bleeding or other sensor faults. This may be at ISO 16, ISO 72 or ISO 160, that doesn't matter. It has NOTHING to do with amplification "1". Please define amplification "1"! What do you mean?
OK OK, you got me there! But since you ask what I mean: I was responding to J, not you, and chose not to be strictly technical (shame on me). The sesnor, combined with its collection and amplifying circitry is designed to give the CAMERA SYSTEM (not the sensor) a base ISO and at this base ISO, noise performance for THAT camera system is at it's best. This is what I was refering to. My POINT was simply that ISO200 is ISO200 if measured to the standard and labled correctly. You finally addmitted as much:
ISO100 is the same sensitivity per area in all formats, if the manufacturer has labeled it's product correctly. Very true.
Joakim (the Suede), you are a smart guy, but tone it down. I'm interested in talking about photography using the terms that photographers use. Switching to an alternative terminology may show how smart you are, but it confuses the conversation. Also, in your own profile you say:
Amateur photographer, sadly more technical than artistical... I would prefer the other way around... :-/
Well dude, stop studying the ISO spec and read a book from Bryan Peterson and focus not on how technically easy it is, but on all the creative advice he gives. Go take pictures. I deal with tech stuff all day long at work, the last thing I want to do is argue about it on this forum.
So, from here on out, I will do my best to answer people honest questions with a not too technical but still correct answer and I'm not going to engage in a pissing contest like the one illustrated above. I have nothing to prove, and people don't need this much technical detail to be great photographers.
Cheers,
Andre
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