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R.H. Johnson
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p.24 #1 · p.24 #1 · Post Your Set Up!






Master of Light Studios
Stricly Old School Fine Art Photography
L.A. Images, Inc.

Canon Digital Macro Studio the final iteration
Camera: any
lense: any w lense foot
Flash: any, shown Canon speedlites 580EX II, 90EX off camera fully automatic wireless flash master + slave groups A:B:C
Diffusers: sunlight filtered 5500 degree kelvin DIY
twin 11" articulate arms
Shoulder support stabilization: Leitz Wetzlar shoulder stock , Germany circa 1955








Aug 04, 2014 at 05:43 PM
TheBat
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p.24 #2 · p.24 #2 · Post Your Set Up!


Hi Guys,
I notice that a few of you are trying to utilize fibre-optics for firing satellite mounted strobes and I've been wondering as to whether anyone has tried using any of the Sea and Sea or Inon brand strobes that are used exclusively by underwater photographers? I spent about 15years doing underwater photography and the results from these strobes both manually and TTL, is amazing. Most of the major strobe manufacturers even include two or three different Kelvin diffusers for their strobes. The only problem is that they can get very hot, but I don't think that would be a problem because of the lack of 'targets' compared to those offered under water. When you see something underwater, you tend to machine-gun away due to the short duration of time available. . .
If you flick down through the first few pages, you will find some interesting postings:

https:[email protected]/

For those that might be interested anyway. . .
Bruce



Sep 02, 2014 at 06:14 AM
e6filmuser
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p.24 #3 · p.24 #3 · Post Your Set Up!


TheBat wrote:
I've been wondering as to whether anyone has tried using any of the Sea and Sea or Inon brand strobes that are used exclusively by underwater photographers?


Bruce,

Thanks for the link. Inon have some interesting-looking diffusers and snoots.

Harold




Sep 04, 2014 at 06:31 AM
cadman342001
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p.24 #4 · p.24 #4 · Post Your Set Up!


Latest set up utilising the Bush Hawk minus front bracket/grip, with trigger button.

_AGM6200 by AndyMacDougallPhotography, on Flickr

_AGM6201 by AndyMacDougallPhotography, on Flickr

The macro bracket I have is quality but inflexible, I want to lower the profile of the flash to make it easier to poke it into places, somehow have the flash parallel to the barrel with the head/diffuser pointing down. Any ideas ? I suppose a smaller flash would be a start but which one ? sb400?

Andy



Sep 15, 2014 at 12:02 AM
TheBat
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p.24 #5 · p.24 #5 · Post Your Set Up!


Hi Andy,
Funnily enough, I have had 'better' results with the little R200 than I have with the 400. I think that the 400 has waaay too small a flash unit and needs to have a sizeable diffuser made for it. Don't get me wrong, the SB400 is a very powerful flash unit for macro work, it's just the very small rectangular flash unit that I'm complaining about. It gives a real hot-spot. . .
This is only in my experience and I'm no expert. . .
BTW, what brand is the circular flash mount that you are using? I purchased a couple off ebay and they were very flimsy, but yours looks a helluva lot sturdier. . .
Bruce



Sep 16, 2014 at 05:38 AM
e6filmuser
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p.24 #6 · p.24 #6 · Post Your Set Up!


Having tried my wife's patience in recent years with the bulk of my camera gear on flights, with both our carry-on baggage allowances of up to 7kg each, I have this year got it down to about one 5kg bag. OK, more than half was originally film gear and the pending trip will be digital only.

We are talking m4/3. The non-macro lenses are a Lumix 7-14mm AF, and Olympus 14-42mm AF and 70-300mm 4/3 AF (via adapter).

The macro kit, all manual focus, is based around a Kiron (Vivitar Series 1) 105mm f2.8 macro in Canon FD fitting (also great for general telephoto shots). I have the Kiron FD x 1.5 and x 2 TCs, the latter having arrived only this morning. There are also two achromat screw-on close-up lenses, a Marumi +5 and the Raynox MSN-202.

The above, with the lens at closest focusing distance, give me, according to the combination, a field of view (FOV) from 17.5mm down to about 2.5mm wide, at a working distance of ca. 140mm down to 30mm.

Some examples: with x1.5 TC FOV=13mm,: add a +5 Marumi and FOV= 7.5mm; alternatively, add the Raynox and FOV= 3mm.

The lens plus the x2 TC gives FOV=9mm. Using this TC plus the Marumi or Raynox is so similar to FOVs with the x1.5 that it is not worth swapping (unless the small amount of additional working distance is critical).

The camera is an Olympus OM-D E-M1, with an E-P2 as backup.

Although I have yet to try the x2 TC, I have been using some of these combinations for images posed here. For flash exposure I carry an Olympus FL-50R and an FL-300R, with the pop-up FL-LM2 to control them (off-camera) form the hot shoe.

I mention this kit on grounds of flexibility, portability and affordability, the more so if you can base it around Olympus OM mount version.

I hope this helps someone.

Harold




Sep 17, 2014 at 10:59 AM
cadman342001
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p.24 #7 · p.24 #7 · Post Your Set Up!


TheBat wrote:
Hi Andy,
Funnily enough, I have had 'better' results with the little R200 than I have with the 400. I think that the 400 has waaay too small a flash unit and needs to have a sizeable diffuser made for it. Don't get me wrong, the SB400 is a very powerful flash unit for macro work, it's just the very small rectangular flash unit that I'm complaining about. It gives a real hot-spot. . .
This is only in my experience and I'm no expert. . .
BTW, what brand is the circular flash mount that you are using? I purchased a couple
...Show more

Hey Bruce, I'm not 100% but I think it is a Kirk brand (bought it about 10 years ago). Wasn't cheap though IIRC.



Sep 17, 2014 at 12:26 PM
peterski
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p.24 #8 · p.24 #8 · Post Your Set Up!


Current macro set-up:





Extension tubes shown are 20mm plus 36mm. Lens is Nikon 24mm AIS reversed.
With the 12mm tube added I can get up to 5x mag. Not as flexible as the MP-E but gives good results. E-TTL on the flash works best at +1/3 for some reason. Must be the added light required. Same with the ISO, 200 works a lot better than 100. The flash has a built-in plastic diffuser which is down and a single paper towel sheet is added to a lamp shade cover. Home-made flash bracket.
cheers,
peter



Oct 02, 2014 at 06:58 AM
TheBat
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p.24 #9 · p.24 #9 · Post Your Set Up!



Wonderful idea with the lamp-shade Pete. I've been racking my brain for nearly two years to come up with ideas for custom diffusers and you go and show me the right way, just like that. Thanks for the inspiration, , ,
Bruce



Oct 02, 2014 at 01:22 PM
peterski
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p.24 #10 · p.24 #10 · Post Your Set Up!


TheBat wrote:
Wonderful idea with the lamp-shade Pete. I've been racking my brain for nearly two years to come up with ideas for custom diffusers and you go and show me the right way, just like that. Thanks for the inspiration, , ,
Bruce


Thanks Bruce. I've tried just about everything myself for the past 2 years. The MT-24EX finally wore me out. This idea I got from Lord V (Brian Valentine) who made a similar diffuser out of aluminium coke cans and it was John K who suggested getting the largest diffused flash as close as possible to the subject to minimise flash duration and get a sharper image.

cheers,
peter



Oct 03, 2014 at 12:19 AM
 

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rw11
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p.24 #11 · p.24 #11 · Post Your Set Up!


I usually use the Nikon R1C1 kit which mounts 2 low power flashes right on the end of your lens (you can add up to 6 flashes on the ring). They include some clip on diffusers.

My question: Is there any situation where it would be better to have flashes mounted further away (other than too much light)?



Oct 07, 2014 at 07:06 PM
e6filmuser
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p.24 #12 · p.24 #12 · Post Your Set Up!


I thought it might be of interest to show that, impressive as many of the setups posted here are, this may still be the champion:

http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/indexmag.html?http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/art97b/oldphoto.html (copy and paste)

Harold



Oct 14, 2014 at 02:18 PM
kwoodard
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p.24 #13 · p.24 #13 · Post Your Set Up!


Very cool...


Oct 14, 2014 at 04:22 PM
rickjphotography
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p.24 #14 · p.24 #14 · Post Your Set Up!


Now I know why I stay a nature photographer. A bit too high-tech for me!


Oct 30, 2014 at 06:08 PM
e6filmuser
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p.24 #15 · p.24 #15 · Post Your Set Up!


e6filmuser wrote:
Having tried my wife's patience in recent years with the bulk of my camera gear on flights, with both our carry-on baggage allowances of up to 7kg each, I have this year got it down to about one 5kg bag. OK, more than half was originally film gear and the pending trip will be digital only.

We are talking m4/3. The non-macro lenses are a Lumix 7-14mm AF, and Olympus 14-42mm AF and 70-300mm 4/3 AF (via adapter).

The macro kit, all manual focus, is based around a Kiron (Vivitar Series 1) 105mm f2.8 macro in Canon FD fitting (also great for
...Show more

After month of delay, I finally have the setup how I wanted it. The delay was party due to the pins in my secondary flash (FL-300R) being stuck in a ball joint shoe extension for the side position on an L-bracket. Having freed that I can now put the heavy FL-50R there. It was also due to RC control failure of my camera.

The position for the other, much smaller & lighter, flash (FL-300R) is now where I want it. This is on another ball joint shoe, on a 65mm tripod lens mount which clamps around the barrel of the Kiron. NB: When the larger flash was there the weight rotated and disconnected the lens from the camera body.

The above is controlled by an FL-LM2 flash on the hot shoe, giving TTL and RC for two off-camera flashes. One or both could be detached for special circumstances to position them further away from the camera .

The FL-50R has diffusion, the FL-300R needs a little more experiment but wide-angle setting looks good.

The tripod lens ring is Canon Mount Ring 65 for Canon EF 70-200mm f4L. On it is written "uVinKa TRIPOD MOUNT RING UA(W). It cost about 12. You need to cut some threaded bolt, of tripod (1/4 inch) thread size, to join the ring to the shoe.

The ring has exactly the same function as the older version, for manual flash:

http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18617

That black (Olympus OM) ring finally gave way to metal fatigue and snapped last week!

Harold



Nov 06, 2014 at 10:56 AM
kdrk888
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p.24 #16 · p.24 #16 · Post Your Set Up!


Hi guys. I had a Canon 100mm f2/8 L IS lens and the Canon MT-24EX Macro Twin Lite Flash before I switched to Nikon and Sony. I am thinking of getting the new Sony 90mm G macro lens that is supposed to come out next quarter to use on my Sony A7II. I know very little about Sony macro flashes or third party macro flash for Sony e mount bodies. Could anyone recommend a off the shelf macro flash for e mount bodies that is similar to the Canon MT-24EX?

Thank you,

Douglas



Dec 08, 2014 at 03:35 AM
Snopchenko
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p.24 #17 · p.24 #17 · Post Your Set Up!


Hello everyone, new here. Today a friend asked me to photograph a bunch of plastic cast models that I'm about to give him - just to be sure that the producer didn't mess anything up. Since I don't usually dabble in macro, I was totally at sea. All I have is a set of extension tubes so I borrowed a strong table lamp and fiddled with these tubes - first on the 70-200/2.8 IS lens (no luck since the working distance was still too big) and then on the 24-85/3.5-4.5.





Results were mixed as I don't have the experience with MF, but satisfactory for the purpose. I would've used the flash but oddly enough, I didn't have any working batteries.



Dec 09, 2014 at 10:42 AM
e6filmuser
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p.24 #18 · p.24 #18 · Post Your Set Up!


Snopchenko wrote:
Hello everyone, new here. Today a friend asked me to photograph a bunch of plastic cast models that I'm about to give him - just to be sure that the producer didn't mess anything up. Since I don't usually dabble in macro, I was totally at sea. All I have is a set of extension tubes so I borrowed a strong table lamp and fiddled with these tubes - first on the 70-200/2.8 IS lens (no luck since the working distance was still too big) and then on the 24-85/3.5-4.5.

Results were mixed as I don't have the experience with MF,
...Show more

Static objects are much less of a problem than living subjects. Continuous light is OK and you can use anti-shock on the camera. Be sure to turn off the IS if the camera is rigidly static and you are not using flash.

Harold



Dec 09, 2014 at 10:51 AM
Snopchenko
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p.24 #19 · p.24 #19 · Post Your Set Up!


The 24-85 has no IS. I was resting the camera on the table at all times and using LV with 10x magnification, but focusing accurately was still challenging as hell. But it was pretty fun, if a bit tedious - you learn something new all the time!


Dec 09, 2014 at 02:21 PM
e6filmuser
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p.24 #20 · p.24 #20 · Post Your Set Up!


Snopchenko wrote:
The 24-85 has no IS. I was resting the camera on the table at all times and using LV with 10x magnification, but focusing accurately was still challenging as hell. But it was pretty fun, if a bit tedious - you learn something new all the time!


10x magnification? That doesn't sound right. If your setup shot shows examples, that would be around 1:1. If you were using 10x your DOF might have been a mm or two.

Harold




Dec 09, 2014 at 03:14 PM
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