floris
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 p.1 #10 · best file type and settings for print? | |
There is one key step that is often overlooked IMO, that is to add grain before printing... before we get there a few other tips:
A few notes: always process in 16-bit and prophoto for maximal image quality, there are many posts on this with lots of good info. aRGB is good for most purposes, but there's no reason not to use prophoto. Epson drivers now support 16-bit, so if you're printing to a friends epson, just give him a 16-bit file. Though I doubt you'd notice a difference if you converted to 8-bit.
Regarding sharpening: I do most of my sharpening viewing my original image at 100%, then I upsize to my output. For judging your output for an inkjet print, view it at 50% (this simulates the inkjet process well for some reason). I'll often do a little touch up sharpening after upsizing. I find this is more efficient and just as good in terms of IQ as sharpening after upsizing (disclaimer: I've only printed up to 20x30in off of 8-12MP files).
Regarding size: first, note the difference between dpi and ppi. ppi is the number of pixels per inch in your file. dpi is the number of dots per inch the printer puts out. Always use 2880 dpi or higher (as high as your paper/printer allows) for maximum quality. Regarding ppi, for epson inkjets anything over 180 is fine, again, discussed at length in other posts. So upsize your image to the right dimensions with at least 180 ppi. (suppose you're at 140 dpi, it's best to exactly double when possible, so go to 280 dpi in one step in the bicubic sharpener in PS). Now, I do this a little differently.. because the next step is IMO the most overlooked and very important for nice natural images, and works better if you always use the same ppi..... so I upsize to exactly 360 ppi for my epson output (this is epson's recommended ppi, and I like the way the prints come out).
Adding Grain - the magic step: any upsized digital image (big enlargements mostly) will have artifacts, if you used noise reduction it will look plasticky, else there will be pixely noise, sharpening edges, etc. It won't look pretty close up. You can't do much about that (except buy a more expensive camera or print smaller), but you can hide it.. create a new layer in overlay mode with 50% gray fill, add 400% gaussian monochromatic noise, then apply a 0.7px gaussian blur (numbers approx, these work for me). Now set the opacity to taste. For smooth skies etc. try 8%, for highly textured scenes like forests try 15-30%. Of course, layer masks are quite useful here. Now, since I want to know what the effect this noise will have on the output I always print at the same ppi as noted above, that way I control the grain size and it's the same every time. The effect of the grain is very subtle from a distance, but close up it makes the image look less digital and more film/natural. It creates the illusion of added detail.. and who wouldn't want that?! Always apply grain last, after upsizing to final printing size, after sharpening, etc. it's the very last step.
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