Upload & Sell: On
Here's what I use:
scroll down for the freeware version
In the column heading of Entry, make the column wide enough to see the whole listing and look for "Total Number of Shutter Releases for Camera"
Kuso Exif Viewer <-- also reads from NEF (win)
Column marked Item, look for "ShutterCount"
Simple EXIF Viewer for Mac OS X
Look for "Camera Actuations"