I was his first customer and only got to receive the adapter a few weeks ago. He missed me but managed to send me one from one of his odd batch production.
From his site update, I guess he should be shipping the next batch pretty soon.
Here's one from a hike in Little Cottonwood Canyon in Salt Lake a
couple of days ago. I've made some LR adjustments and added a little LR vignetting.
Slightly cropped to remove a little unattractive lens vignetting that I am getting at 14mm in two corners. 1DsII, mark's adapter,100 ISO,1.3 seconds,14mm. I'll try to add some more over the next week. I haven't done much wide angle work or used an adapter before, so there's a learning curve for me. I am finding focusing to be a challenge, but I think that's mostly my lack of experience with this kind of shooting.
Cheers,
Scott
Edited by Anon Moss on Jul 03, 2008 at 10:55 AM GMT
Re focusing wide angles, with film I used the hyperfocal distance. With digital, I find that I am much happier focusing at infinity, or if there's a lot of important foreground information maybe a tad closer, and stopping down, and letting the foreground go a little soft if necessary. I find an out of focus background makes the image looks soft, whereas a slightly out of focus foreground does not. My theory as to why hyperfocal distance doesn't work very well in digital is that we're printing images at much greater mangifications than we (I) did with film.
Thanks for the tips gents.
I am reading every tutorial that I can find relating to depth of field and the focusing of super wide angles. I'll be better prepared next time I head up the canyons. Since the G-EOS set-up only gives me partial EXIF info to review in post...I will be keeping notes and doing series of shots at specific focal lengths, apertures, and focus settings. I am fairly new to the 1DsMkII as well, so I have a double learning curve going on. I'll report back on my findings. Thoughts/suggestions welcomed...
Cheers,
Scott
Is this vignetting in the two corners due to the adapter rotating the lens (for aperture selection), which puts the hood off center, and in the picture area?
Anon Moss wrote:
Slightly cropped to remove a little unattractive lens vignetting that I am getting at 14mm in two corners...
Edited by Anon Moss on Jul 03, 2008 at 10:55 AM GMT
Paul,
Here's a sample shot that has the vignetting in the top left and bottom right corners. You can't really see the bottom right vignette because the corner is so dark...but it's there. I don't know what causes it. I think it only occurs at 14mm, but I'm not sure. You sure miss EXIF data when you are used to it, and then you have to do without.
Scott
Here's 2 more from today:
Both were shot at 22mm and at f22.
Neither are anything special, but I think that they may be useful
for the pixel peepers. Both had blown skies so I lopped off the upper 1/3 or so on each.
On the bottom one, look in the corners...the plant leaves have pretty good definition. If you zoom in on the sign posts, you can see the pressure-treating holes in the wood, and read the print on the signs (at least I can on the originals).
Scott
With high pixel camera and viewing images at 100%, the old method of range focus will not give u the desired sharpness, or the sharpness that the lens is capable of achieving. But for superwide such as this 14-24, it is rather forgiving, especially if the lens is stopped down to f5.6 or beyond.
Using the live view with magnification would be your best bet.
Unfortunately, none of my current cameras have live view capability :-(
Shooting tethered is the closest I can come to that. I am waiting for Canon's
next generation of LCDs...hopefully the 5dII will have a nice one like Nikon's or even better. Not that there's anything wrong with the current ones, it's just that my 50 year old eyes need all the help they can get.
Your vignetting is purely mechanical and from the lens hood. But as you say this is from f22, which I imagine is the largest rotation? I would doubt you need that much DOF on a 14mm shot and the diffraction is limiting your capability. IIRC the adapter you're using has f11 and then f22 as stops, but try something in between that gets you more around f16. I hope you'll see an improvement without a material loss in DOF. Enjoy the lens!
Thanks for the input Daniel,
The vignetting shot was at 14mm if I recall properly, and I'm even less sure about the aperture...it may have been f22...but I don't know.
I was paying closer attention on the last hike, and the last two shots were taken at: 22mm + f22.
My goal with this lens is to take landscape shots that have maximum depth of field (with strong foreground to background interest) without unnecessary diffraction, along with good sharpness across the frame.
The G-EOS adapter doesn't have perceptible click indent stops, but rather a smooth dial that has colored dots at: f2.8/f8/f22.
I'll go back up to the same locations and try 22mm at f16 as you suggest. I was pretty happy with the 22mm/f22 results, but if 22mm/f16 works better - that's gravy.
Since it is all but impossible for me to critically focus these shots through the viewfinder... I'm hoping to arrive at: focal length/f-stop/focus-distance scale setting combinations that I can just dial in for the kinds of shots that I want.
Cheers,
Scott
Have you heard of any workaround for the filter issue? I haven't even heard of a workable software utility that comes close to mimicking what a polarizer does. I'm going to miss using a polarizer on the 14-24.
Duncan Staples wrote:
Any 300%-400% crops from the images?
Thanks,
Duncan
Here's a couple 300% crops from the above pics Duncan:
The first one is from the left side of the dirt trail picture.
The second is from the shot with the trail signs in it (bottom left center)...
I didn't even notice the paper cup in the original.
Scott
I'm sorry Rick,
but I was just having fun and wasn't paying a lot of attention to remembering exact settings the day I took the stream shots. Without EXIF info to rely on, I am going to have to be more methodical and actually keep notes on future shoots with this lens.
Scott
Thanks Scott. It would be cool to see the optimum aperture for this lens. Corners are a bit disappointing but could just be diffraction if at f/10 or above.
I have some interesting news from John at LEE filters:
It sounds like filters are indeed usable with the 14-24G lens.
"Thank you for your inquiry. We can fit the Nikon 14-24G with our FK100
push-on filter holder and a shim that brings its diameter down to 98mm
(FKD100/98). This configuration vignettes slightly at 14mm, but it's the
best we can come up with because the petal shade cannot be removed."
Sincerely,
John Adler
LEE Filters USA / Screen Shade
(800)576-5055
I have asked John some additional questions about the 'shim', and about whether or not
it can be permanently fitted to the shade. I am also waiting to hear if the 'shim' is stock or custom order. If the 'slight vignetting' is an issue to some...maybe the petal shade can be cut back a bit. Hey - we've come this far...why not? :-)
I'll post more when I hear back from John.
Here are 300% crops of the actual bottom left and right corners for those interested:
