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Jonathan H
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p.1 #1 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


These are from last week's bouldering trip to the Shawangunk Mountains (AKA 'The Gunks') just outside of New Paltz, NY. The climbers are Dan and Dan - one is my brother, and the other is a sponsored climber here from Ecuador for 6 months and a very close personal friend.

While the pictures below are technically rock climbing, they are best described as "bouldering" - climbing low(er) to the ground, where ropes aren't mandatory, and protection is instead afforded by "crash pads" below the climber and a good spotter. Additionally, bouldering routes or "problems", due to their shorter length, are often considerably more difficult, requiring extreme power and strength. Bouldering, by consensus of nomenclature, maxes out about 15'-18' off the ground, but a smaller, braver segment of the bouldering community engages in "highballing" whereby they'll climb up to 30' off the ground, with only some 3" thick foam mats on the ground, 3 stories below. Not for me

Bouldering problems are assigned a difficulty grade by the first person to ascend the problem and are then further refined over time by consensus. This grading is on the "V" scale. A V0 would be the easiest possible problem, up through V16, of which there are only handful in the world and only about 7-8 climbers in history who have ever climbed a V16. The 3 climbs pictured below have grades of V8, V9, and V11. To put this in perspective, I've been a climber for almost 10 years, I'm 6'1" and only about 9% body fat, can easily whip out 30 or 40 pullups, and can confidently say that I will never in my life be strong enough to even attempt a V11 or a V9... only maybe a V8 after a period of intense training. Without further ado, I present these for your viewing pleasure, critique, and criticism.

All lighting is courtesy of sync-modified 580EX flashes triggered by PW's, laboriously carried into the backcountry.

1 - Karajo - V11
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2 - The Illustrious Buddha - V9
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3 - The Illustrious Buddha - V9
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4 - The Illustrious Buddha - V9
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5 - Boxcare Arete - V8
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6 - Boxcar Arete - V8
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7 - Finally, a quick portrait. Dan Duran, cross-lit by two 580EX flashes at dusk.
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Hope you enjoyed these as much as I enjoyed taking them!




Edited on Apr 05, 2008 at 11:51 PM


Apr 05, 2008 at 11:47 PM
jfinite
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p.1 #2 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


I like the first one very much. Shows his build off nicely.

Apr 05, 2008 at 11:54 PM
Mike Discenza
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p.1 #3 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


I love 3 and 4. Looks like you had a lot of fun. Were you in that little hole in #2 or was it remoted?

Edited on Apr 06, 2008 at 12:00 AM


Apr 05, 2008 at 11:59 PM
Jonathan H
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p.1 #4 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


Mike - I presume you're referring to #4.

I had a 580EX and PW in there, VERY precariously balanced

I took some shots from in there as well, but didn't quite get the effect I was looking for. On #4 above, I was hoping to get his knee blocking the actual flash head, giving a great backlight/edge highlight, but couldn't time it right.

Apr 06, 2008 at 12:11 AM
Steady Hand
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p.1 #5 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


Thanks for providing the informative backstory to the images. It taught me some things about this sport that I did not know. Very helpful and well written.

30-40 pullups is something I WISH I could do.

Keep up the good work.

I think you posted some urban climbing pics earlier. IF so, I enjoyed them too.

Apr 06, 2008 at 01:24 AM
BubbaJon
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p.1 #6 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


Hey you guys should come on down to the sunny south to do some of this. In Chattanooga there are a few locations for bouldering but the best in the area - and I mean folks come down from all over - is Rock Town which is top of Pigeon Mountain just outside of La Fayette, GA. I believe they have the entire range of difficulty and the best part is it's less than a mile on an easy trail from the parking area. It's a great location for photography - some of the rock formations are just fantastic. It's also used to train and practice standard climbing and free climbing. Basically if you're a climber this is your mecca.
#1 is may favorite of the lot - the flash is too obvious in the others.
Regards,
Jon

Apr 06, 2008 at 04:04 AM
jprezant
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p.1 #7 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


Awesome man. I'm feelin you on the never climing v11 thing. I've been going for about 5 years, and I'm at V6-7 and feel like i'm not getting anywhere, then again, I'm not training :-p

Shots are really cool! Funny- in shot number 3 you can see the shadow of the lens on the rock (right side of image)

I still haven't made it to the gunks. I'm down in DE and I've only bouldered around here mostly, Haycock Mtn. and Alapocous. On the other hand...I did go to castle hill, NZ last year

If you're ever down in DE, come by the Delaware Rock Gym and check it out. Maybe i'll be working.

Jason

Apr 06, 2008 at 04:39 AM
jerryrock
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p.1 #8 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


Jonathan,

This reminds me of my college days (late '70's) at Marist! I used to photograph the climbers on the Shawangunks as well. I lived in New Paltz for a number of years. Nice job with the lighting!

Jerry

Apr 06, 2008 at 05:25 AM
Jonathan H
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p.1 #9 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


Steady - Glad you enjoyed them.. There's plenty more where they came from and hopefully I'll be posting them in the next week or two.

Jon - Does Kentucky count? My buddies were just at Red River Gorge for a week, but I couldn't join them... bummer. I've heard of Rock Town... truthfully though, when I take long road trips, I go where the rock is taller I'm not huge into bouldering myself, but prefer 'trad climbing' and 'sport climbing' - definitions to come when I post some pictures Also, regarding the flash comment... I intentionally went for that look. I've been seeking ways to differentiate my shots from the run of the mill climbing shots so decided to go for some highly stylized, sharp lighting on these. Glad to hear your opinion though!

Jason - Yup, that is the lens' shadow. It's an 8mm fisheye and sees everything. Also, I pass through DE all the time. Actually, I hit up Haycock once a couple years ago... if I remember correctly, the rock there is SHARP. Tore my tips apart! I live in NJ but just moved there from MD, so I'm back and forth all the time. Also, I think I know one of your coworkers - Aimee? We just met last weekend at the Gravity Brawl here at my gym... pictures coming soon! Here's a reverse invitation for you... if you're ever by the NJRG or heading up to the Gunks, drop me a line.

Jerry - Thanks for the comments! New Paltz is an awesome little town.

Apr 06, 2008 at 02:14 PM
txduggan
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p.1 #10 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


I live in the area (Orange County).....and have been DYING to get images of climbers.

Tried Mohonk a few times, but no real vantage points unless you are actually ON
the straightface.....not for me

I'd be interested if there were a few people going up to shoot in the spring....

Tom D

Apr 06, 2008 at 02:43 PM
DirkRiskar
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p.1 #11 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


I'm filled with envy! I live in FL and all the bouldering I get to do is indoors.

On the plus side, I never miss the mat!

I really like #2. That's a hellacious hold on the rock. I imagine he's going for the crack above and to his right?

Apr 06, 2008 at 03:00 PM
tmronin
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p.1 #12 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


aw man...this brings back memories. i was a gunks rat for 4 seasons in the 90's. take the bus from NYC to new paltz, walk up to Rock and Ice and catch a ride to the rock with random climbers. 3 pitch repels in the pouring rain with gathering darkness then hooking a ride back to town in a mini-van full of german tourists. <sigh> those were some great times. thank you so much for posting these Jonathan!

great shots. my main nitpick is the portrait at the end - man, i wish his left hand was either out of his pocket or not "broken" at the wrist like that.

Apr 06, 2008 at 03:32 PM
jprezant
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p.1 #13 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


Haha. Crazy. Yea, I know Aimee, actually on my way over to DRG right now for a 1yr. BBQ. I used to work the birthday parties up at NJRG so I know barb and a couple others up there. Worked the gravity brawl one 3 years ago, that was a good time. Yea the rock at haycock is sharp, but the most annoying thing is definitely the rating system, seems like I cant climb v3 over there. Should have some new shots going up here pretty soon with the weather getting warm, I'm a big fan of buildering and the NRR is coming up sometime soon.

Apr 06, 2008 at 05:57 PM
Jonathan H
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p.1 #14 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


Tom - I'm up in the Gunks all the time (maybe every 2 weeks) and wouldn't mind dropping you a line next time we head up.

Dirk - Don't worry about it, I'm a gym rat too!! Funnily enough, after a second glance, #2 isn't actually The Illustrious Buddha.... it's a V4 "warm up" right next to it I mislabeled it.... I included it because I liked the light. It was shot with a gridded 580EX.

tmronin - Sounds like times haven't changed one bit! I lost a #3 hex the last day of last season when I bailed in an impending Fall rain storm. Good times! You're 100% right about the wrist... it was totally impromptu, I noticed he was standing perfectly between the two lights, just called his attention, and fired off a frame. That was the result. I loved the lighting, ambiance, everything... but that #&$#%^ wrist.

Jason - I was at the GB 3 years ago... dislocated my shoulder and did all sorts of damage. I also used to do birthday parties back in the day. Truth is we've probably met at some point. And yeah, I seem to recall plateauing out around V3 at haycock too! Ha ha. PS - I think I'm gonna be down at the NRR this year too. NRG (and Rumney) are my favorite crags in the East Coast. Just wait till I get my deep-water soloing pics up from Summersville Lake!

Apr 07, 2008 at 12:09 AM
txduggan
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p.1 #15 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


Jonathan H wrote:
Tom - I'm up in the Gunks all the time (maybe every 2 weeks) and wouldn't mind dropping you a line next time we head up.


Jonathan...

Very cool...shoot me a PM.

I'm usually riding the quad on the weekend, but if you give
me 1-2 days notice, that'd be fine.

Thanks!

Tom D

Apr 07, 2008 at 12:18 AM
jprezant
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p.1 #16 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


Sweet deal man. I haven't been down to sommersville yet, but I keep meaning to go. I guess I keep putting it off because I hate cold water. Maybe in august. Let me know if you're heading down there any time soon.

Apr 07, 2008 at 08:11 AM
Dirk Garner
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p.1 #17 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


Ug. I'm old. I've climbed in all of the places mentioned in these replies, long before I was interested in photography. They are all great. I like #3--but I think you caught the shadow of your lens on the right.

I've climbed all over the 'Gunks and just loved it...

Peace.

Apr 07, 2008 at 01:31 PM
Jonathan H
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p.1 #18 · Rock climbing in the Gunks!


Dirk... you're never too old to start again! There are some octogenarians out there all the time!

Apr 07, 2008 at 08:32 PM

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