htbyron
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Buy and Sell: On
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cgardner wrote:
AWB would work only if you had the gray card in every shot to click-correct the photo in Photoshop.
For example, you shoot a red wall with the card in it, in AWB. You can correct it by clicking the card with the eye dropper in PS.
Next frame you shoot a green wall in AWB but don't include the card. The green wall will cause the AWB to shift from the first shot but without the card you can't correct in PS.
But if you had set your WB to "daylight" the WB would be the same in both shots. Once you corrected the WB in the first (by eye since it wouldn't have a card) you could apply the same WB correction to the second file.
That's not quite correct. I use AWB all the time, and I shoot a gray card (whibal) as one frame whenever the lighting changes. Then in LR (or any other raw converter, including ACR in PS), I click on the card to get the "correct" WB applied to that frame. then I copy the WB setting from that frame to every other shot using the same lighting conditions (I often tweak the setting anyway, using a color-managed monitor).
Your earlier post makes the point that setting a custom WB allows you to see the colors based on the included jpg or default used to display the image in the RC. That's an advantage if the raw converter can correctly read the camera mfr's proprietary metadata in the raw file. I recall reading that non-OEM raw converters do not always correctly read the metadata associated with camera settings, and their settings don't always match the camera's settings (OEM converters, such as DPP, have the same settings as the cameras made by the mfr, so they more reliably allow consistent settings, whether made in-camera or during raw conversion). As I recall, this was an issue for manually set kelvin temp and preset WB settings (daylight, shade, tungsten, etc); I don't know whether it's an issue for in-camera custom WB settings made using a gray card.
For me, I find the procedure outlined above to work well, since I sometimes tweak the WB setting anyway, and the whibal card gives me the most reliable starting point. If a custom WB setting based on a gray card is equally reliable, and you find setting custom WB easy to use, that should be fine too. But I use raw (among other reasons) precisely to avoid worrying about in-camera WB.
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