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Archive 2006 · Best tilt/shift lens...period?
  
 
espressogeek
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p.3 #1 · Best tilt/shift lens...period?


Wow, i wonder if you could modify the zeiss lens to do tilt and shift?

Jul 28, 2006 at 12:59 AM
jjlphoto
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p.3 #2 · Best tilt/shift lens...period?


I would estimate that type of machining to run in the many thousands $$ to build a T'S mechanism from scratch. (Plus the price of the Contax PC 35)

A photo machinist could remove the Zeiss rear mechanism, you could buy an existing beater Canon T/S lens, Arax, or Hartblei lens and try to cannibalize the T/S mechanism and put it on the Zeiss.

One could also buy the Mirex T/S medium format adapter, remove the Zeiss rear and put the Mirex on, but again, you are talking precision machining, and could spend well over a grand, plus the $400 for the Mirex.

Try these guys and see what they say:

http://www.baldmtn.com/
http://www.skgrimes.com/

Jul 28, 2006 at 02:15 AM
montespluga
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p.3 #3 · Best tilt/shift lens...period?


Talking about image quality with Hassi-lenses:
I use a 50 mm and 80mm (not sure about the 80; but I'm not at the studio now) both silver, with a PSA from Zörk. As I don't need tilts, this works fine to me. The PSA can shift 20mm, so, for flatstitching, it's better than the mirex.

The 80 mm does very well; through the entire shifting range; no CA, contrast, sharpness in the corners, etc. It's mostly used in the studio, and provides the best quality, I can reach with my 1 Ds-2; resulting in a 7700 pix x 4800 pix @ 300 dpi.

The 50 mm has some CA in the corner, depending on the light, as we all know. Otherwise it's fine as well; it's image quality - at the center - is comparable to the 50 mm macro from Canon.

A sample, 50 mm Hassi; center vs corner:


This image is copyrighted by the owner




By interest, I could link some other sample's.
Jul 28, 2006 at 10:13 AM
shirozina
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p.3 #4 · Best tilt/shift lens...period?


Can you use the maximum 20mm if movement without the mirror box cutting off the image in any way?

Jul 28, 2006 at 10:21 AM
montespluga
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p.3 #5 · Best tilt/shift lens...period?


Yep, no problem.

3 frames have to be taken, to get the the "full panorama". On the outside frames, there's some vignetting; towards the center, but that's why you shoot the center.

Jul 28, 2006 at 10:53 AM
montespluga
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p.3 #6 · Best tilt/shift lens...period?


A Hassi 80 mm-example, from a acrylic architecture model, which is alwith a problem.
You just can't get that with a SLR-lens; image: 103 cm x 43 cm@ 240 dpi. The top acrylic "brick" is fully tranparent!!



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Jul 28, 2006 at 11:03 AM
 



shirozina
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p.3 #7 · Best tilt/shift lens...period?


Thanks for the info - I'm going for the Zoerk in that case.

Jul 28, 2006 at 12:18 PM
montespluga
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p.3 #8 · Best tilt/shift lens...period?


You' re welcome.

Forgotten to add, that the architecture modell is arround 2: 1.
The (prof) model builder wasn't to lucky with that shot, as it showed more details than visible with human perception, all the little gluepoints, etc...

Jul 28, 2006 at 12:45 PM
Doug Morgan
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p.3 #9 · Best tilt/shift lens...period?


Montespluga:

You should be able to get more than 7700x5000 with the Zoerk, I would think. At 15mm shift I get 7500x5000 usable with the Mirex and the edges are pretty good.

I wonder though which 50mm Hasselblad you have? Fully shifted (15mm) the edges of mine do not look that good and CA is more evident.

I also thought I would clarify that the mirror box shading is irrelevant for panoramas since the centre frame overlaps the shading but for shifted single-frame shots the shading does limit the usable amount of shift, at least on the 1ds2, though only for rise/fall from a landscape-oriented perspective. Shifted left/right in a landscape orientation I haven't noticed any problems up to 15mm of shift each way.
Doug
Jul 28, 2006 at 03:36 PM
dklepacki
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p.3 #10 · Best tilt/shift lens...period?


jjlphoto wrote:
There is no other shift lens in its class. I had the Nikkor 28PC &35PC latest models, and promptly sold them as I found they simply were not up to the task.

John, as you know I also owned the CZ PC35 as well as the Canon T/S lenses. I can tell you that the newer Hassy IF 40/4 (not the older CFE version) outperms these lenses in overall image quality (resolution, color, etc.) by a large margin. It is also sharper/more contrasty than even the Hassy 50/4.

The 40 IF can be used with a zoerk shift adapter on a 35mm system with superior results. However, when this lens is combined with the Hassy PC-Mutar shift adapter, it becomes a 56mm PC/shift lens with 105mm image circle (and +/- 16mm shift) that can be used with medium format cameras and digibacks. Amazingly, the PC-Mutar mitigates the edge distortion of the lens as well. With an A75 or P45, the HFOV of a stitched pano image is equivalent to the HFOV of a 28mm focal length in 35mm format (also very close to the HFOV of the Hassy Biogon-38),

With a P45, you will get a 65 megapixel image (2 image flat stitch) that will blow away any image coming from 35mm format.

So, while I agree that the CZ PC35 lens is a geat lens to have....the Hassy 40 IF (+ PC-Mutar with MFDB) is in a whole new class. I do not know if I can sincerely recommend plunking down the money for this if you plan to stay in 35mm format, but if you are also someday planning to make the jump to medium format, this is a killer shifting system, and in my opinion the BEST shift lens...period (per the thread subject).

For 35mm systems, you can use either the Zoerk or the Mirex adapter. For medium format systems, there are adapters for Contax 645, Mamiya 645, Hassy H and Hassy V camera systems. So, all around this has excellent flexibility.

David


Edited by dklepacki on Jul 30, 2006 at 03:08 PM GMT

Jul 29, 2006 at 04:03 AM
jjlphoto
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p.3 #11 · Best tilt/shift lens...period?


David- that is good to hear, as I have read so many conflicting reports on the new H series lenses. I do recall people saying if you had access to previous series lenses, that the 50 was the better of their 40 and 50 if you wanted to stitch.

Jul 29, 2006 at 05:03 PM
dklepacki
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p.3 #12 · Best tilt/shift lens...period?


John,

First, the 40 IF is a Zeiss V-series lens, NOT a Fuji H-series lens. Of course, you could use it on the H series cameras with the Hassy (expensive) adapter.

Second, it is NOT TRUE that the 50 is the better stitching lens. The 50 is better than the older CFE version of the 40, but Hasselblad really produced a winner with their latest IF version. The newer 40 IF lens is leaps better than the older 40, which is what people have compared the 50 against.

Also, you can see the difference better with a MFDB, since the AA filter on 35mm systems smudges too much fine detail. (The exception would be the Leica DMR, of course, since they do not use an AA filter.) However, on a MFDB, the 40 IF produces the sharpest stitched images yet.

Don't get me wrong, the 50 is also stellar and is also a killer shifting combo using it with the PC-Mutar and a MFDB, but it is NOT better than the 40 IF. The 40 IF is a real sleeper, and overlooked mostly because it is so much more expensive than the 50....but as with most things you get what you pay for.

David

Jul 29, 2006 at 09:34 PM




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