This is all Canon, but it is a bit different. A Canon 35mm tilt-shift FD lens, converted to an EOS mount to allow infinity focus without the need for the intermediate converter lens, mounted on a 1ds2.
Here is one of my best selling images entitled Horsetooth in Winter. It is most interesting because this may have been one of the only days without wind since I have lived in Colorado, allowing the reflections to really shine through. This was shot with the Kodak SLR N with a 17-35 Nikkor zoom.
And Finally, my favorite shot from Lower Antelope Canyon in Page Arizona. This is a must do shoot for anyone interested in fine art landscape photography. Very spiritual as well as very lovely. Shot with Nikon D2X and 17-35 Zoom.
Nice shot, BTW, did you need do do some processintg fro haze? Do you use a haze filter? Is that a "stealth 1Ds? Not showing on profile
Flare on my 15mm leica is a bit worse than I thought, but then I do get pretty close to sun and pick some bad angels.
BTW, 280mm f4 took precedence from 2x focus modle, but one of these days!
Victor, at first the flare caught me by suprise. But once I remembered to watch out for it, I usually found a way to alter my shot or use my hand as a shade to eliminate it while shooting. It is probably one of my favorite lenses to use....it is incredibly sharp and it resolves detail from corner to corner quite wonderfully.
I was using nearly all Leica glass with a 1DS before I received my DMR. I had to modify the mirror to use the 15 (and a few other lenses), but the results were worth the effort. I sold it before picking up the DMR. I still wouldn't mind having it around though, for full-frame landscapes.
I did have to mess around with the haze in photoshop. One of the strengths of mating Leica lenses on the DMR is the strong metering and white balance. I would have liked to have been able to use the DMR on my trip to Norway last summer. There are a few shots with haze and blown highlights that I could have captured more acurately with the DMR.
I've been looking at those 280/4s also. It would be so easy to add it to the small bag with the 180/2.8.
I am wondering if it makes sense to use a light orange filter to reduce haze at the time of shooting, and then to correct the colours in RAW processing... Does that just go back and forth equal amounts, or could it actually remove some haze from the image?
Good question Carsten. I'm not certain if one way would work better than the other. For me, haze has always been a hard thing to undo. But sometimes you don't have the opportunity to come back on a day with no haze.
Personally, I always try to capture the image as close to as I see it first in RAW. From there, it is subject to my internal filter as to what I'd like it to look like as a final image (as we all have a unique way of seeing things). I tend to bump saturation and color up a touch on most shots as that is a look I prefer.
kidigital wrote:
Good question Carsten. I'm not certain if one way would work better than the other. For me, haze has always been a hard thing to undo. But sometimes you don't have the opportunity to come back on a day with no haze.
Personally, I always try to capture the image as close to as I see it first in RAW. From there, it is subject to my internal filter as to what I'd like it to look like as a final image (as we all have a unique way of seeing things). I tend to bump saturation and color up a touch on most shots as that is a look I prefer....Show more →
Yup, I do the same. Your post just triggered the thought. If the orange filter cuts haze (doesn't store as much blue), yet doesn't distort the colours too much (perhaps yellow then), it might actually be possible to revert, without the haze. The question is two-fold I suppose: 1) is the haze latently there somehow? 2) how much colour would be lost this way.
Helping out the second item is the fact that long-distance shots are often pretty monochrome anyway. It would be interesting too to shoot two shots, one normal, one with filter for the far parts, and then combine them with layers. If one was willing to go mostly monochrome, then it would even be possible to shoot with a red filter and change the red to blue afterwards.
