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tgieske
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p.1 #1 · d100 anomalies

shooting on an oregon beach, I found I had to stop down my 70-200 to f22 and use exposure compensation to cut two or three more stops, even at iso 200, to keep from getting a totally blank, or lets say, bright gray, image. the same thing happened in my back yard when there was an abundance of sunlight. the frames went completely over exposed. setting in both cases was A for aperture preferred and focus was spot. any advice?

along the same lines, i have started to find that the shutter release freezes shooting indoors in low light unless I make the exposure manually correct. (shooting in A, spot focus, iso 6400, using 20 mm nikkor.)

plus when I try to shoot rapidly, i can get two or three frames before the shutter release freezes, but I guess that's normal while the battery recovers itself.

Edited on Aug 25, 2005 at 11:50 AM

Aug 25, 2005 at 01:23 AM

jmcfadden
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p.1 #2 · d100 anomalies

tgieske wrote:
shooting on an oregon beach, I found I had to stop down my 70-200 to f22 and use exposure compensation to cut two or three more stops, even at iso 200, to keep from getting a totally blank, or lets say, bright gray, image. the same thing happened in my back yard when there was an abundance of sunlight. the frames went completely over exposed. setting in both cases was A for aperture preferred and focus was spot. any advice?

along the same lines, i have started to find that the shutter release freezes shooting indoors in low light unless I make the exposure manually correct. (shooting in A, spot focus, iso 6400, using 20 mm nikkor.)

plus when I try to shoot rapidly, i can get two or three frames before the shutter release freezes, but I guess that's normal while the battery recovers itself.

First were you in Matrix Metering when you had the overexposure ? Depending on where you metered if you were in Spot Metering would make a big difference. Also did you check to see if you had dialed in Exposure Compensation by mistake ? It happens to all of us at one time or another , another reason to use Manual most of the time

As for the shutter release "freezing" depending on how you have the AF mose set in the custom function menus , on one of them modes for S , meaning single shot if you are using the shutter release to also trask the shot the camera will Not fire Unless you have focus lock! In C mode the camera can be set to release even if the camera ha Not achieved focus lock

This is one of the reasons to set the focus to C mode or S mode and control it with the * button near your right thumb. With the camera set to S and using the * for focus you can focus and recompose much easier annd the camera will Always fire

Lastly , the issue with firing a few frames and then the hesitation has nothing to do with "battery recovery" and everything to do with the buffering in the camera. The D100 has a 3 to 4 shot Raw buffer. Taking a burst of images will bog one down with this camera , go ahead and get a 40X card or faster to help with the write times

J

Edited on Aug 25, 2005 at 11:50 AM

Aug 25, 2005 at 03:17 AM

tgieske
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p.1 #3 · d100 anomalies

Thanks, McFadden. I think you pinned it. So I'll just find the exposure in auto, then set it in manual and vary appropriately. That'll alleviate another bad thing about auto, which is that somehow the exposure compensation gets moved around without my noticing it when I'm shooting action. Suddenly, I've got a bunch of frames that are three stops off.

Edited on Aug 25, 2005 at 11:50 AM

Aug 25, 2005 at 05:54 AM

JunSawa
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p.1 #4 · d100 anomalies

woops
*edit...

Aug 25, 2005 at 11:50 AM


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