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Archive 2017 · Lightroom, DXO photolab of Capture One for ORF files

  
 
johnvanr
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Lightroom, DXO photolab of Capture One for ORF files


I did a quick comparison of some of my portrait and bird files from the Olympus EMII, using LR Classic and the latest versions of Capture One and DXO. Same monitor, side by side.

Overall, I liked the DXO rendering the best, with C1 coming in second and LR last. Differences between DXO and C1 were small, but between those two and LR the colors were quite different. LR is a lot more muted.

I only tested a few images, but I’m wondering about the experiences of others.



Dec 09, 2017 at 06:09 PM
Wilbus
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Lightroom, DXO photolab of Capture One for ORF files


LR is generally more neutral straight out of the box. C1 is way more contrasty and handle the files both better and worse in my opinion. I am using both at the moment and have tested DXO but I'm not too fond of the UI though I love the fact that they bought and added the U-point technology from Google who bought Nik.

If you want a more "fair" comparison under camera profile in Lightroom, I'd suggest picking anything but the Adobe Standard since it is downright boring. Picking any other profile brings the RAW shots up to Olympus standard, more or less identical to what you would get from out of camera JPG's actually which is good.
Noise reduction is far worse in Lightroom. Sharpening is worse as well. The files from C1 simply come out cleaner and sharper most of the time.

C1's profile for Olympus files however is weird, sometimes the colours are WAY off, having WAY too much reds or magenta in them. Also, they are a bit too contrasty with the auto profile and I sometimes use the linear profile instead which pretty much zeros the file. Sometimes when I use auto profile it blows out the highlights.



Dec 09, 2017 at 07:02 PM
johnvanr
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Lightroom, DXO photolab of Capture One for ORF files


And here I was looking for an easy solution. Seems no matter what, you have to fool around with the files.


Dec 10, 2017 at 07:33 AM
jack winberg
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Lightroom, DXO photolab of Capture One for ORF files


<<And here I was looking for an easy solution. Seems no matter what, you have to fool around with the files.>>

Of course you do ... that is why God invented image editors! :-)

Jack Winberg



Dec 18, 2017 at 03:18 PM
Damondean
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Lightroom, DXO photolab of Capture One for ORF files


I have used LR for years, and really like the interface. But recently I decided to experiment with the Fuji X cameras, and I downloaded a trial of C1to play with those files. It occurred to me that C1might also handle the m43 files better than LR, so I did some comparisons, and I was impressed enough to switch to C1 for most processing.

I do struggle with C1 colors sometimes, but I find it is a much more capable program in its treatment of details (structure/clarity, sharpness, noise reduction). In my experience, you can push those tools pretty hard in C1 without causing ugly artifacts...and maybe this is due to a higher level of cooked-in noise reduction or whatever, but I can't find much fault with it. I'm just a hack and not very scientific in my assessments, but that's my conclusion.

Also, I think the structure/clarity/sharpness tools really deliver a 3D look that I have not been able to get with LR. This was one of the "weaknesses" of m43 I was hoping C1 would address, and I think it does help a lot.



Dec 28, 2017 at 04:10 PM
dass101
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Lightroom, DXO photolab of Capture One for ORF files


I'm using a EM10 and I always disliked the C1 color profile for my camera. No amount of color correction would fix the wrong hues.
I recently decided to give it another shot and downloaded V11.
The EM10 profile is still the same but I tried different Olympus profiles and noticed that the PEN F one is a lot more accurate, pleasing and overall closer to the camera jpegs.
Also, as a general advice, don't use the default curve, which has way too much color contrast. Start with the linear one and apply your own curves and brightness.
My recommended workflow:
1. PEN F linear profile
2. RGB curve boost in the upper region, keeping an eye on the color shifts. Stop when things get too punchy, even though your image is still too dark
3. Mild Luma boost/S curve to get closer to the intended brightenss/contrast
4. increase the brightness slider and/or play with the leves tool to get to the final brightness/contrast
5. Color correction if needed. I find that I generally like to saturate the reds a bit to mimic the Olympus default jpegs. Also minor skin tones adjustments

I still don't like to unnatural saturation in the shadows, but that can be somehow compensated with the right combination of RGB and Luma curves and also with the split tone Color balance tool.

I currently use Silkypix, with a customized profile, and I still prefer it for overall look, but I really like what I'm getting in C1 using the above approach. C1 is also a lot more "fluid" and modern, I might consider switching to it.



Jan 01, 2018 at 01:09 AM
slowandsteady
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Lightroom, DXO photolab of Capture One for ORF files


Create this workf as a preset and just import all your Oly files with this box checked. You'll save yourself a ton of time fiddling with each ORF file


Feb 03, 2018 at 08:31 AM
gary0319
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Lightroom, DXO photolab of Capture One for ORF files


johnvanr wrote:
And here I was looking for an easy solution. Seems no matter what, you have to fool around with the files.


You could use the Large Super Fine JPEG setting for the E-M1 and dispense with all the raw conversions completely. I know I'll get flamed from the RAW Forever crowd, but for me most times the LSF works quite well. I shoot Raw +LSF and when I do need a boost from the Raw for a wide DR file or something, I just do an "edit-in" to Olympus Viewer 3 out of LR. I like the results better than ACR or the other Olympus Raw converters I've tried, and a quick in-and-out of OV3 with no editing and I'm ready to go with a large tif file for the editing. Now, OV3 is a slooooow dog, but since most times the LSF is good enough for me (I only print big once or twice a year), I can put up with its pokiness.

However, if you enjoy playing with raw conversions and the like, this method will be a non-starter for sure.



Feb 04, 2018 at 12:43 PM





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